Aeolius
Adventurer
Unless you are satisfied with interacting with marine life using games such as flOw , Aquaria , or Endless Ocean , the next step for undersea inspiration is to set up your own saltwater aquarium.
Some basic starter tips can be found here , with a focus on How to Set Up a Reef Aquarium .
First, begin with an aquarium, preferably 30 gallons or larger, as water parameters (salinity, pH, etc) are easier to manage in larger tanks, Aquariums typically require a stand and possibly a canopy. Set up the proper water pump(s) and plumbing. different types of tanks require different water currents; a species-specific aquarium like a seahorse tank requires a low flow, while a fish-only tank may require a high flow. Over time, you may require additional equipment such as protein skimmers, calcium reactors, or wave makers with additional pumps known as power heads. Next turn to lighting; a fish-only tank may only require standard high-output fluorescents, but a reef tank filled with corals will need metal halide lighting or compact fluorescents, depending on the size and depth of the tank. Some lighting systems incorporate metal halide fixtures, compact fluorescent actinic lighting (a blue hue preferred by corals), and low intensity lunar lighting for night viewing. Some include built-in timers to turn them off at night. Depending in the intensity of your lighting, you may require a chiller to cool the water. Otherwise, you may need a heater, to maintain the proper water temperature.
Second, add a bit of saltwater, either premixed from your local aquarium store or prepared from a salt mix. You’ll need a hydrometer to manage the proper salinity. This is a good time to check your plumbing; hoses, bulkheads, and fitting for leaks.
Next, you may want to add a substrate such as live sand, which is teeming with beneficial bacteria that breaks down nitrogen-based waste made by marine life, or a pre-bagged commercial blend such as Arag-Alive. Reef tanks and some fish-only tanks will benefit from the addition of liverock , chunks of rock covered in sponges that are not only attractive, but beneficial as well. Liverock provides a natural food source for some fish, aid in the breakdown of waste produced by aquarium inhabitants, and create a foundation for live corals or decorations in a fish-only aquarium. Liverock and live sand help to “cycle” the ammonia and pH in an aquarium, a crucial stage before adding livestock. Liverock will experience some die-off during harvesting and shipping. One may purchase “uncured” liverock, which will need to cure in an aquarium for several weeks before fish are added, or “pre-cured” liverock which has already undergone this step. Uncured liverock typically has more diversity in sponges and other marine life. Curing liverock will require the use of a protein skimmer and frequent water changes, typically 20% of the content of the aquarium.
Finish filling the tank with saltwater and fire up the pumps, lighting, power heads, heater/chiller, and other equipment. Enjoy your aquarium for a few weeks just as it is, watching the liverock as it changes. You may notice a bloom of brown algae, as the tank "cycles". Otherwise, take a water sample to your local fish store once a week, so they may determine when the tank has cycled.
To keep a reef tank clean, many aquarists include the addition of "clean-up critters" , marine life which feeds on algae, detritus, and other less desirable aspects within the tank. Tank cleaners can include hermit crabs, snails, certain sea stars, shrimp, abalone, and more. After waiting for the tank to cycle, waiting for the liverock to cure, one also waits a bit, after adding the clean-up crew. Reef tanks require a phenomenal amount of patience.
At long last, it is time to add fish, corals, and whatever else you want to put in your tank, assuming you have checked the compatibility of species and do not overcrowd your aquarium. This is where it gets a bit frustrating. Some fish cannot be put in reef tanks, as they will eat other occupants, corals, or both. Some fish are territorial and cannot be kept with others of their own kind; angelfish, tangs, butterfly fish, and the like are often like this. Some fish require a specialized species tank. Seahorses, for example, are slow eaters and cannot be kept with more aggressive fish.
It may be best to set up several aquariums, just to be safe.
As I posted on #enworld, the other day:
08:07 Aeolius imagine an undersea gargoyle with a stony skin filled with nooks and crevices... http://www.liveaquaria.com/images/categories/large/lg-81793-live-rock.jpg
08:09 Aeolius The creature is host to numerous stony and soft corals, as well as invertebrates such as snails, hermit crabs, and sea stars. A fair number of small reef fish will claim a liverock gargoyle as their "home" as well.
08:09 Aeolius In essence a living reef, the liverock gargoyle is neither good nor evil, instead they prefer to live in harmony with the surrounding seas.
08:10 Aeolius THAT is what I see, when I look in a reef tank filled with liverock.
08:11 Aeolius I also see the liverock as mountainous terrain. Swimming races explore each small cave and cranny, while those who prefer the ocean floor dig within the sands below.
I am currently setting up a 72 gallon and 35 gallon saltwater aquarium. Both currently have live sand as a substrate. I'll add uncured liverock to the 72, tomorrow. As things progress, I may let the players in my undersea game help pick out critters for the tanks. I may keep an online photo gallery as the tanks progress.
Some basic starter tips can be found here , with a focus on How to Set Up a Reef Aquarium .
First, begin with an aquarium, preferably 30 gallons or larger, as water parameters (salinity, pH, etc) are easier to manage in larger tanks, Aquariums typically require a stand and possibly a canopy. Set up the proper water pump(s) and plumbing. different types of tanks require different water currents; a species-specific aquarium like a seahorse tank requires a low flow, while a fish-only tank may require a high flow. Over time, you may require additional equipment such as protein skimmers, calcium reactors, or wave makers with additional pumps known as power heads. Next turn to lighting; a fish-only tank may only require standard high-output fluorescents, but a reef tank filled with corals will need metal halide lighting or compact fluorescents, depending on the size and depth of the tank. Some lighting systems incorporate metal halide fixtures, compact fluorescent actinic lighting (a blue hue preferred by corals), and low intensity lunar lighting for night viewing. Some include built-in timers to turn them off at night. Depending in the intensity of your lighting, you may require a chiller to cool the water. Otherwise, you may need a heater, to maintain the proper water temperature.
Second, add a bit of saltwater, either premixed from your local aquarium store or prepared from a salt mix. You’ll need a hydrometer to manage the proper salinity. This is a good time to check your plumbing; hoses, bulkheads, and fitting for leaks.
Next, you may want to add a substrate such as live sand, which is teeming with beneficial bacteria that breaks down nitrogen-based waste made by marine life, or a pre-bagged commercial blend such as Arag-Alive. Reef tanks and some fish-only tanks will benefit from the addition of liverock , chunks of rock covered in sponges that are not only attractive, but beneficial as well. Liverock provides a natural food source for some fish, aid in the breakdown of waste produced by aquarium inhabitants, and create a foundation for live corals or decorations in a fish-only aquarium. Liverock and live sand help to “cycle” the ammonia and pH in an aquarium, a crucial stage before adding livestock. Liverock will experience some die-off during harvesting and shipping. One may purchase “uncured” liverock, which will need to cure in an aquarium for several weeks before fish are added, or “pre-cured” liverock which has already undergone this step. Uncured liverock typically has more diversity in sponges and other marine life. Curing liverock will require the use of a protein skimmer and frequent water changes, typically 20% of the content of the aquarium.
Finish filling the tank with saltwater and fire up the pumps, lighting, power heads, heater/chiller, and other equipment. Enjoy your aquarium for a few weeks just as it is, watching the liverock as it changes. You may notice a bloom of brown algae, as the tank "cycles". Otherwise, take a water sample to your local fish store once a week, so they may determine when the tank has cycled.
To keep a reef tank clean, many aquarists include the addition of "clean-up critters" , marine life which feeds on algae, detritus, and other less desirable aspects within the tank. Tank cleaners can include hermit crabs, snails, certain sea stars, shrimp, abalone, and more. After waiting for the tank to cycle, waiting for the liverock to cure, one also waits a bit, after adding the clean-up crew. Reef tanks require a phenomenal amount of patience.
At long last, it is time to add fish, corals, and whatever else you want to put in your tank, assuming you have checked the compatibility of species and do not overcrowd your aquarium. This is where it gets a bit frustrating. Some fish cannot be put in reef tanks, as they will eat other occupants, corals, or both. Some fish are territorial and cannot be kept with others of their own kind; angelfish, tangs, butterfly fish, and the like are often like this. Some fish require a specialized species tank. Seahorses, for example, are slow eaters and cannot be kept with more aggressive fish.
It may be best to set up several aquariums, just to be safe.
As I posted on #enworld, the other day:
08:07 Aeolius imagine an undersea gargoyle with a stony skin filled with nooks and crevices... http://www.liveaquaria.com/images/categories/large/lg-81793-live-rock.jpg
08:09 Aeolius The creature is host to numerous stony and soft corals, as well as invertebrates such as snails, hermit crabs, and sea stars. A fair number of small reef fish will claim a liverock gargoyle as their "home" as well.
08:09 Aeolius In essence a living reef, the liverock gargoyle is neither good nor evil, instead they prefer to live in harmony with the surrounding seas.
08:10 Aeolius THAT is what I see, when I look in a reef tank filled with liverock.
08:11 Aeolius I also see the liverock as mountainous terrain. Swimming races explore each small cave and cranny, while those who prefer the ocean floor dig within the sands below.
I am currently setting up a 72 gallon and 35 gallon saltwater aquarium. Both currently have live sand as a substrate. I'll add uncured liverock to the 72, tomorrow. As things progress, I may let the players in my undersea game help pick out critters for the tanks. I may keep an online photo gallery as the tanks progress.
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