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Thursday, 25th June, 2009, 07:29 AM #21
Acolyte (Lvl 2)
I gave that greybrushing technique on some minis recently and it's worked wonders!
As soon as my camera is working (or I get a new camera) I'll have to show 'em off for critique.
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Friday, 26th June, 2009, 01:03 AM #22
Cutpurse (Lvl 5)
I've always primed with white in the past, and can testify to the irritation on missing little spots (that stuck out like a sore thumb).
I will begin this greybrushing tonight! Got a box o pewters to test it out on, anyway.
Awesome thread, BTW. Your skill trumps mine (I've painted the same elf wizard as your second image... let's just say mine's not ending up online for comparison )
Friday, 26th June, 2009, 04:17 AM #23
Enchanter (Lvl 12)
Interesting. I usually start with a flat white prime, do a base coat, ink it with watered down flat black, drybrush the whole thing with white, then drybrush the rest of the colors. I'll have to try that method, looks like it can save some time.Now here is the secret, here is how to get the best of both worlds of prime, and more when it comes to prepping your minis: the Greybrush.
That's pretty good. Most of my best figures look a bit like that, though complete of course. I'm not really interested in doing award winning work on the minis, but I also don't want them to look like crap, and I have a decent eye for detail. Most of my minis are closer to your battlefield standard though, I'm generally more careful with unique PC-type minisHere's some half painted ones:
That always helps. I wash my hands a lot when I'm working on game stuff, because I don't like stuff like Cheeto dust getting on my campaign notes. I like to write my stuff up by hand. The same thing goes for minis, dirt, oil, sweat and all kinds of crap can mess up a paint job.EDIT: that reminds me, before you start painting, wash your hands! You don't know where they've been, and you don't want the grubb form your grubby mitts to get all over your awesome mini.
I've been there. I learned the hard way to be careful with the pliers too, because too much pressure can crush in part of the lid, and then it builds up rust which contaminates the paint. When a lid is stuck, I usually dip on of the junk brushes in my wash solution, and rub it around the inside of the lid to soften it up a bit first. If the dried paint isn't too bad, sometimes that even does the trick.the pliers on the left hand side are there because the old GW paintpots are less than cooperative when it comes to opening once paint dries in the grooves of the caps.
I use water with a little bit of alcohol and soap added to help clean up the brush.You also need at least 2 cups of brush water that you are willing to sacrifice to the cause, I use disposable red party cups.
If I had a working digital camera, I'd probably share some of my better paint jobs in this thread.
PbP info here: http://www.enworld.org/forum/5396456-post81.html
Monday, 29th June, 2009, 08:22 PM #24
Cutpurse (Lvl 5)
I tried out the black/greybrushing this weekend with some solid results!
As soon as I get some batteries in my camera I'll post some pics. The black really darkened up the minis quite nicely; I often felt the white basecoat left a "bright sheen" making the mini seem to have no depth.
My skill is still amature at best, but these techniques did seem to help quite a bit! Thanks!
Thursday, 30th July, 2009, 06:10 PM #25
Scout (Lvl 6)
Where did this thread go? I was really enjoying it and the timing couldn't have been better. I'm trying to build up a ton of mini's for my new campaign and was interested in trying these methods.
Thursday, 6th August, 2009, 06:07 PM #26
Cutpurse (Lvl 5)
What with one thing or another, I've been letting things slack off here. I have a batch of re-painted-pre-painted plastic minis that I'll put up in the next couple of days.
I have yet to find a way to successfully strip these things, so they are all primed over the origional paint job.
Currently I'm working on a technique for enhancing a pre-painted palstic mini without doing a full re paint, certainly this is a focus on speed over quality, but I have had a couple of interestig results.
I was reading over on the Reaper boards, and believe me, some of those guys are hard core, and a couple things they do is wet blending, and use really thin paints with all kinds of flow extenders and such added that they say it can take hours or even days for the paint to dry. One solution they have to this, in order to protect the model, is they will hit the mini with a matte sealer between their different painting stages.
This got me thinking, one of the things that make me cringe is hearing some people saying that you can just paint straight on the pre-painted plastic, this works about as well as nailing Jell-O to the wall, but it got me thinking, what if I just hit the Pre-painted mini with a matte sealer, and paint over that, the sealer giving the paint something to "grip" onto, and from there, just add highlights or minor color changes and such, use some inks to add depth and so on.
The other reason I am kinda excited about this idea, is that it preserves the one thing that I think the pre-painted plastics actually bring to the table, which is the clear/translucent effects that are impossible with metal minis, or are lost by simply priming over the plastic, I had previously considered trying to preserve these effects by covering them with rubber cement before priming, but I think this will work better.
I'll have some pics up in the next couple of days...pinky schwear!
Thursday, 6th August, 2009, 10:52 PM #27
Thaumaturgist (Lvl 9)
When I hit some of the WOTC figures with matte spray to do as you suggested it clouded some of the transparent bits. You might want to mask them before spraying. Good luck!
Friday, 7th August, 2009, 03:21 PM #28
Cutpurse (Lvl 5)
I'm hoping to reverse the clouding issue by either using a gloss sealer over it, or a brush on gloss varnish once the mini is done.
When I'm getting really nutty over a mini, I'll use paint on gloss varnish over the final matte sealer on things like gems, lips and eyes to bring out their luster again.
Friday, 7th August, 2009, 03:38 PM #29
The Grand Druid (Lvl 20)
The problem I've found when re-painting D&D pre-painted minis, is that even one or two layers of paint (or sealer) raises the surface enough that you start to lose the definition from features. Especially facial features. Faces on the pre-painted minis are one of the parts that needs the most work (very little shaping and highlighting in WotC painting, and many times the eyes aren't even painted where they are supposed to be). Even one layer of paint on the face, in order to repaint the features properly, raises the surface enough that it's extremely hard to find where the eyes go again.
How do you put the paint or sealer on thin enough to serve your purposes, but not thick enough to ruin definition of features?
Mark "El Mahdi" Armstrong
Retired NCO, Grognard Extraordinaire and Plenipotentiary
Semper Operor Verus
Friday, 7th August, 2009, 04:20 PM #30
Cutpurse (Lvl 5)
The best I can recommend is a light prime, and thin paints
In my case, mini snob that I am, Most of the pre-painted plastics that I work on are monsters/creatures who usually have more sharply incised features. Most of my PC types are metal. However I did work on a tiefling mini for one of the players in my group, and the thing's face was a train wreck. About the best you can hope for is to use colors with greater contrast than you would normally use to give the illusion of greater depth, and it may even have to descend into the realms of freehand work for more details, like lips and eyebrows and so on.
Most of it boils down to the simple mantra "You can't polish a turd."