Polyhedral dice numbering conventions

nikolai

First Post
There's a very specific numbering convention for 6-sided dice. Opposite sides add up to 7, which gives two possible configurations of numbers (left and right handed). I think the convention for western dice is "right handed", 2 is to the left and the 3 to the right, casino dice for example will be like this. There's also conventions for the direction of the placements of dots.

Now is there anything like this for polyhedral dice. I imagine opposite side adding up to n+1 happens. But are there conventions around which numbers should be located where? And what are the numbers of possible configuations? And are their conventions around the direction in which the numeral is placed?
 

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nikolai said:
There's a very specific numbering convention for 6-sided dice. Opposite sides add up to 7, which gives two possible configurations of numbers (left and right handed). I think the convention for western dice is "right handed", 2 is to the left and the 3 to the right, casino dice for example will be like this. There's also conventions for the direction of the placements of dots.

Now is there anything like this for polyhedral dice. I imagine opposite side adding up to n+1 happens. But are there conventions around which numbers should be located where? And what are the numbers of possible configuations? And are their conventions around the direction in which the numeral is placed?

No such convention that I've ever seen. The number of arrangements on the d20's in my dice bag stagger the imagination.
 

Crothian

First Post
I think different companies might use different methods, I've never really looked in it though.
 
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Vanye

Explorer
nikolai said:
Now is there anything like this for polyhedral dice. I imagine opposite side adding up to n+1 happens. But are there conventions around which numbers should be located where? And what are the numbers of possible configuations? And are their conventions around the direction in which the numeral is placed?

Up until the early 90's, all of my d20's added up to 21, but around then everything started to change...
 

tankenka

First Post
Dice Numbering Conventions

Having gamed since D&D first addition when I started in the early 80s, I'm writing on this from more than 25 years of table-top gaming experience through a -wide- variety of systems. Of course many dice production companies no longer follow dice numbering standards for whatever reason (usually it's just unknowing ignorance) - so as it was previously mentioned, the standards are (currently) seldom followed. That said, these are the standards.

While there is variation in numbering systems, there is a correct format.

The highest number on the die plus the lowest number should always be the value of the numbers on opposite sides of the die. (I will note that d10/percentile has two correct builds). The exception is the build of a d4.

Standard dice formats:

d4 = **SEE NOTE 1**
d6 = 7 (6/1, 5/2, 4/3)
d8 = 9 (8/1, 7/2, 6/3, 5/4)
d10/Percentile **SEE NOTE 2**
d12 = 13 (12/1, 11/2, 10/3, 9/4, 8/5, 7/6)
d20 = 21 (20/1, 19/2, 18/3, 17/4, 16/5, 15/6, 14/7, 13/8, 12/9, 11/10)

This format is followed for all greater number dice (d30, d100, or rarer combinations).


**NOTE 1**
d4 has two builds, one where the result number is on the base, and one where the result number is on the top point. d4 is also the easiest NOT to make incorrectly, as if it IS incorrect, it can't be made (ie: you'd not have a decisive roll result, it would be something like 4/3/3, or 2/1/3, etc)

d4 "base build" = whatever the base number is -must- be excluded from the one invisible side. This means that if the base number is 4, then the unseen side (touching the table) must have 1/2/3. Additionally, the result number must align with the closest edge of the invisible face on ALL visible sides.

Result = 1
Invisible Face = 2/3/4

Result = 2
Invisible Face = 1/3/4

Result = 3
Invisible Face = 1/2/4

Result = 4
Invisible Face = 1/2/3

d4 "point build" = where the result roll is on the top point, the bottom corners of the visible sides must all have matching/corresponding numbers, and the invisible side must exclude the result number entirely, and the numbers must align with the base point (non-result) numbers.

So, if the top point shows a 4, then the three visible points must show 1, 2, and 3, respectively while the invisible points must contain only 1, 2, and 3, and each number must align with the related visible point (non-result) number.

**NOTE 2**
If using a combination of d10 and d10 percentile to generate a 0 to 100 roll, then strict opposite numbering composition must be used.

d10 with 0 treated as 10 MUST combine with percentile d10 with 00 treated as 00. (d10 build 1 matches with percentile build 2)

d10 with 0 treated as 0 MUST combine with percentile d10 with 00 treated as 100. (d10 build 2 matches with percentile build 1)

**BUILD 1** (0 treated as 10)
d10 = 11 (0/1, 9/2, 8/3, 7/4, 6/5)
**BUILD 2** (0 treated as 0)
d10 = 9 (9/0, 8/1, 7/2, 6/3, 5/4)

**PERCENTILE BUILD 1** (00 treated as 100)
Percentile d10 = 110 (00/10, 90/20, 80/30, 70/40, 60/50)
**PERCENTILE BUILD 2** (00 treated as 00)
Percentile d10 = 90 (90/00, 80/10, 70/20, 60/30, 50/40)

-----

Hope this wasn't too confusing, and I hope this helps.
 
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Tanstaafl_au

Explorer
Up until the early 90's, all of my d20's added up to 21, but around then everything started to change...

My first D20's used to have only a single digits on the facing, and you coloured in one side to be the 'ten's' side. So 5 was always opposite the 15 etc.

This was in late 70's/early 80's.
 


Loonook

First Post
I have to agree with the 'all sides add to largest +1' setup. I have seen other formats from the spinner d20s (usually dragged out during a Hanukkah game as, well, gelt is sweeter when stolen from the orcs...) and any numbers.

If it rolls, and is random, I don't mind. Personally? I am starting to prefer diceless gaming...

Slainte,

-Loonook.
 

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