What Miniature Paint do you use?

Guillaume

Julie and I miss her
I use mostly Citadel and Reaper and am happy of the results. Its not the paint, its the painter that needs changing ! :\
 

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Painfully

First Post
I use Vallejo Game Color (GC) and Model Color (MC) paints mostly. The MC paints have been around the longest as the paint of choice among high quality painters. It's all about color choice, and high pigment strength. The GC are made to be more durable, and specifically match the Citadel paints color for color. So, I see it as a way to ween people away from the Games Workshop crowd.

I've got the new Reaper Master Series paints, and I like them. I bought the metallic golds and silvers, and the medium and light flesh color sets. The color system of sets of 3 is a wonderful time saver. I like the metallics--they have a nice sheen to them in the light, but can appear dark otherwise. I've been on a NMM kick lately, but will give a thorough testing of their new metallics on my next few minis.

The convenience of dropper bottles is a must for me. Messy paint lids are just a time waster. I've stayed away from GW paints ever since I had to open one of their jars with two large pliers--it is not an experience I would want to wish upon another painter. If you like the Citadel colors, go with Vallejo's GC instead, and you won't regret it.

I also use a few choice Liquitex artist colors and a mixing chart to help me get certain custom colors that I cannot find from other brands. It has helped me learn about color mixing and blending a fair amount. For those serious about getting exactly the color they want, I would highly recommend Liquitex medium viscocity artist acrylics. Most colors are $3-5 for 2 oz. of paint, while a few colors are up to twice as expensive due to the pigments used. If you are especially choosy, avoid any "hues," as they tend to imitate a more expensive paint color using cheaper pigments, but if you are price conscious, then that is exactly why they made hues.

Liquitex paints are thicker than other paints. You will get more out of their 2 oz. bottles than most 4 oz of the brands more common to figure painters. I thin down my Liquitex with mostly airbrush medium to a consistency I like, and then put it into a smaller dropper bottle. It has proven an excellent addition to my paint collection.

If I were to start anew, I still think I would go for Vallejo Model Colors. Reaper's new Master Series would be a close second choice. For newbies, I would probably recommend they start with the Reaper Master Series paints.
 

Ace

Adventurer
Painfully said:
I use Vallejo Game Color (GC) and Model Color (MC) paints mostly. The MC paints have been around the longest as the paint of choice among high quality painters. It's all about color choice, and high pigment strength. The GC are made to be more durable, and specifically match the Citadel paints color for color. So, I see it as a way to ween people away from the Games Workshop crowd.

I've got the new Reaper Master Series paints, and I like them. I bought the metallic golds and silvers, and the medium and light flesh color sets. The color system of sets of 3 is a wonderful time saver. I like the metallics--they have a nice sheen to them in the light, but can appear dark otherwise. I've been on a NMM kick lately, but will give a thorough testing of their new metallics on my next few minis.

The convenience of dropper bottles is a must for me. Messy paint lids are just a time waster. I've stayed away from GW paints ever since I had to open one of their jars with two large pliers--it is not an experience I would want to wish upon another painter. If you like the Citadel colors, go with Vallejo's GC instead, and you won't regret it.

I also use a few choice Liquitex artist colors and a mixing chart to help me get certain custom colors that I cannot find from other brands. It has helped me learn about color mixing and blending a fair amount. For those serious about getting exactly the color they want, I would highly recommend Liquitex medium viscocity artist acrylics. Most colors are $3-5 for 2 oz. of paint, while a few colors are up to twice as expensive due to the pigments used. If you are especially choosy, avoid any "hues," as they tend to imitate a more expensive paint color using cheaper pigments, but if you are price conscious, then that is exactly why they made hues.

Liquitex paints are thicker than other paints. You will get more out of their 2 oz. bottles than most 4 oz of the brands more common to figure painters. I thin down my Liquitex with mostly airbrush medium to a consistency I like, and then put it into a smaller dropper bottle. It has proven an excellent addition to my paint collection.

If I were to start anew, I still think I would go for Vallejo Model Colors. Reaper's new Master Series would be a close second choice. For newbies, I would probably recommend they start with the Reaper Master Series paints.


I have a mix of paints with a bunch of reaper paints, a few GW paints (disapointing actually) and a lot of Delta Creamcoat--

the delta paints come from an art store like Michaels (or Walmart if you like) and cost about $1 US for a 2oz tube. They are pretty much the same thing as minis paints and are popular with the professional minis painters and the GW heads in my local area.

The only flaw is that they are only available in normal shades like Black, Red, Flesh and Green and not Grevious Dismemberment Crimson, Damsol Lavender and Otyugh Yellow -- they work better unmixed IMO for characters and historical figures -- For monsters you can use them mixed or better just get some specialty paints

Given the Reaper and GW paints cost about $3 for 3/4 an OZ in my area the creamcoat paints are are a much better deal at about 1/8th the cost
 

pogre

Legend
Thanks for the review Painfully. I totally agree about dropper bottles! I still use mine from my original GW dropper ink bottles. I never understood why they switched. Sounds like I need to pick up some of this new Reaper paint to give it a whirl.
 

pogre

Legend
Ace said:
I have a mix of paints with a bunch of reaper paints, a few GW paints (disapointing actually) and a lot of Delta Creamcoat--

the delta paints come from an art store like Michaels (or Walmart if you like) and cost about $1 US for a 2oz tube. They are pretty much the same thing as minis paints and are popular with the professional minis painters and the GW heads in my local area.

We had this argument on these boards a few months ago and I'll just say I disagree.

I have not had the money to renew my account on ENWorld for the last couple of months, but perhaps someone with the search function could hunt it down for us.
 

Fargoth

First Post
Excellent post Painfully! Thank you for your thoughts. I'm definitely going to try some Valejjo paints.

I just thought I'd add that I also use some nice watercolor paints (tube) with a Windsor Newton extender for serious blending jobs. I also use pastel chalks that I hold my Xacto blade 90 degrees and shave off into a powder for subtler shading. The only trouble with the latter is that you have to be extremely careful to affix the powder/pigment before you handle the miniature for fear of rubbing it off or causing it to disappear with an errant sneeze!

For the record I do not consider myself a newbie. When I finish up my latest mini I'll see if my cheap digital camera can snap a pic close enough to see.

Regards,
Paul
 


Drachenherz

First Post
Paint choices

My personal choices for paints are as follows, in chronological order.
*Note: My opinions are the results of 16 years of painting, 15 of which I have been professional. I worked 2 years for Ral Partha as a freelancer, and I take private commissions as well as painting items for sales.*

1) Ral Partha/Iron Wind Metals (these are what I started with, and some of their colors are impossible to find elsewhere)

2) Ceramcoat by Delta craft paints (excellent paints, especially for those who need a LOT of a given color. They too have some colors which cannot be found elsewhere)

3) Testors Model Master Acrylics (great colors, especially the camoflage tones, and the enamel-based metallizer paints are incredible too)

4) Armory paints (out of production now, but I still have a few... great matching milspec colors, but incredibly crappy jars; the seals were a joke, and they dried up fast)

5) Polly S/Floquil (bought out by Testors; excellent colors, very good quality paints in both acrylic and enamel;can still be found in some distributors warehouses)

6) Reaper Pro Paints (these are some of the best; I highly recommend them! I get some incredible results from them, they're easy to mix, and each jar has a nasty little pewter skull agitator ball to help mix the paint right. How cool is THAT?!?!?!)

I want to try the Master Paints line from Reaper, and the Vallejo line. I'll comment on them when I get the chance to test them.

As for primer, I use the $2/can Rust Curb brand from Family Dollar. You get 19 oz. of paint for 1/4-1/5 the cost of a can that is less than half the size!
I get both flat white and flat black, and have never had any problems.

As for clear coat, I use Krylon #1311 Matte Finish, then go over each piece with Testors Dull Cote brush on flat coat (for hair, cloth, etc...) and Reaper's Brush On Gloss Finish for polished metal, gems, etc...

Hope this helps some!
 
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