How to Paint Minis the Bruce Campbell Way*

tallyrand

First Post
Thraug had some questions in another thread about getting started, here's what I had to say, these are some real basics concepts, but true none the less, and if you never painted before, you may not know.

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Almost all miniature paints are water based acrylics, the paints usually I work with are Games Workshop:

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/ca...e=paints-tools

They have a Starter paint Set for about $30 which is kinda the Crayola basic 8 of painting, they also have a Hobby Starter Set for $50 which comes with a brush, clippers and some glue, and is a bit of a rip off in my book. They used to sell a massive paint set with all of their colors for about $150 which was actually a pretty good value.

I began painting minis with Partha Paints, but they don't make those any more, but most of mine are still good, even after all these years.

Most "miniature paints" ARE superior to what you will find on the shelves of the arts and crafts store, and you will pay for that, they are typically much smoother, have more pigment, and take to the mini much better than crafts paint. They also will cost you at least 2-3x as much. if you are just starting out, and on a budget, try the cheaper option just to get your feet wet.

For priming, yes, you use spray paint, while most mini paint companies have their own brand of Miniature primer, here you can skimp without noticeable effect. Usually you won't find "Black Primer" in most spray paint displays, it's pretty much white and rusty brown, what you are looking for is flat or ultra flat black. This will do the trick, remember that multiple light coats are preferable to one heavy coat, and watch out for the humidity, wait until it is nice and dry outside, high humidity can cause a rough pebbled finish that you don't want.

For brushes, again, this comes down again to price, for a really nice single fine tipped brush, you can expect to pay $5-10, but, for that same $5, you can go to the Wal-Mart crafts section and get a variety pack of brushes which will work just fine. You are looking for natural fibers, short, fine tips for detail work, as well as some flat brushes for broader areas and drybrushing. I've been painting for a long time, and have tons of brushes, but I still picked up a couple of these multi packs just last week.

Other basics are a roll of paper towels, I always paint over a pad of paper towels about 4 layers thick, it gives me something to remove excess paint from my brush on, a place to dry my brushes after cleaning them, as well as a cushion for when I inevitably drop the mini I am working on.

You also need at least 2 cups of brush water that you are willing to sacrifice to the cause, I use disposable red party cups. Why at least 2? One is for the basic cleaning of the paint covered brush, and it gets dirty pretty fast, the second one is for a second rinsing of the brush before drying it on the paper towel. Also if you are working with Metallic Paints you want a separate cup for that so the tiny flecks don't contaminate your other waters and transfer.
 

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tallyrand

First Post
THE SETUP

I realize that I am a bit more into painting minis than your average bear, I realized this when all my painting supplies stopped being able to be transported in one trip to the car, I used to have a nice painting box, that held about 30 paints and a nice selection of brushes, and I could go to my FLGS and paint there. About 8 years ago, I bought a desk at Big Lots just for painting.

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So, there you see, paints, brushes, brushwater, magnifying visor, a couple ink pens, half painted minis, 2 lamps, some 2 part greenstuff I just picked up, the pliers on the left hand side are there because the old GW paintpots are less than cooperative when it comes to opening once paint dries in the grooves of the caps. All parked in front of a nice source of natural light.

ENHANCE!

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These brushes are what I talked about above, this is two multi packs (about $10) worth of brushes from Wal-mart.
 
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Great thread!

I gamed for quite a while before getting and painting my first minis about 21 years ago. I am currently in the process of moving to a house that will have loads of work space but for the moment my paint stuff is packed carefully away.:( I shall enjoy following this thread to help with my mini painting fix until I can pick up the brush again.

IN DEFENSE OF CHEAP BRUSHES

I have my good sable brushes and really appreciate thier value but cheap brushes are great workhorses for painting bases, scenery and other workaday slop jobs that I wouldn't want my W&N series 7's to touch with a 10' pole. The really cheap ones are my go-to tacky glue applicators.

I also like to keep a few larger cheap brushes around to use as dry "dusters" to sweep off excess modeling sand or turf.

For general use, I use a mid-grade cheap brush to do basecoating on rank and file plastic minis and save the good brushes for the detail.
 

pogre

Legend
Here are some links to painter sites:
Painting Miniatures Guide

I've slowed down on painting and I am working more on Hirst Arts projects. Right now I cannot get on my website server, but I will put up a bunch of pictures of terrain in the not too distant future.

A silver in a GW contest is awesome. I've made final cut a few times, but never earned a demon. I stopped painting "competitively" a few years ago and now just paint when I feel like it. I'm in agreement with you about time versus results. I also prep my figures exactly the same way you described.
 

tallyrand

First Post
THE RULE OF THE BRUSHES

I for one, welcome our new Brush Overlords.

This is the Rule of the Brushes:

Thou Shalt Not Leave Thine Brushes Sitting in the Water.


Let it be graven into the very stone, and let that stone be used to bonk upon the head any who should defy its ordinance.


This is a bad thing for oh, so many reasons.

1. It will bend the tips of your fine tipped brushes. You know, the nice Windsor & Newton 10/0 that you just shelled out $10 for.
2. It will weaken the glue holding the bristles in the brush.
3. It will cause the wood of the brush handle to swell causing the paint on the handle to chip off.
4. It will cause the metal cap bit that holds the bristles to the handle to come loose.

In other words:

LEAVING YOUR BRUSHES SITTING IN THE WATER WILL DESTROY THEM!
 

carborundum

Adventurer
Dear Mr. Tallyrand esq,

One is curious as to the manner of tricks one can perform upon one's greybrushed miniatures, as alluded to in a previous missive. A hint, pray, good sir? A simple hint to set the old brainstem to cogitating?

In anticipation of a favourable response,

Carb O Rundum Esq.
 
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tallyrand

First Post
LORD TARZAN OF GREYBRUSH

One of the neat things about the Greybrush, is how well it works with thin paints and washes. Mmost of the heavy lifting has been done, and you don't have to spend a ton of time building up layers to get shading and highlights . In the several posts above picture of half painted minis, check out the guy in the center with the green cape. His boots and satchel are straight Citadel Chestnut ink applied to the Greybrushed mini. This can produce a pretty rich effect for both leathers and wood.

Here are some Eunuchs, repurposed Dreamblade minis done to a quick battlefield mook standard:

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Each of them except the yellow is just straight ink over the Greybrush on their pants (yes, they are kinda grainy, I primed with the humidity too high) the yellow I had to hit with a bit of paint on the highlights to bring it out just a bit more.

This is great for painting armies, for my orcs, gobbos, and ogres I mixed up some custom flesh tones, between those and inking the clothes, leather and such, I only had to really "paint" the metal, teeth and other minor details on the rank and file types.

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That's one of the things I really like about the Greybrush. As you can see with the orcs, the colors are not as vivid as they would be if you had painted them all by hand, but you can get to a pretty quick battlefield standard by doing so.
 
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For those unfamiliar, I think the thread title is a reference to this book, which is awesome, much as this thread is, and costs only $17 at Amazon, much as this thread does not.

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Make-Love-Bruce-Campbell-Way/dp/0312312601]Amazon.com: Make Love the Bruce Campbell Way: Bruce Campbell: Books[/ame]
 


Very nice thread tallyrand. I prime in white personally but I can see the time you would save by priming in black and then "greybrushing" they way you have. I'll definitely be keeping an eye on this thread.

Olaf the Stout
 

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