Building a Table: Gaming Surface?

[The_Universe]

Queen_Dopplepopolis and I are all moved into our house, I've got all the RPG stuff out of its boxes, and things are finally settling into a routine. However, I no longer have a gaming table.

As a result, I'm planning to build a new one.

At the moment, I'm thinking about an approximately 4x6 table built somewhere between "kitchen table" and "counter" height. I'm planning to have a small lip around the edge of the table to catch dice and help me slot in larger terrain pieces, but for the average session, I'd still like to have a grid (squares or hexes) that I can draw on...something that's part of the table.

As far as I can tell, my options include:

1. Getting something like a Chessex Mondomat and just cutting it to size. However, this will limit me to wet erase markers (which experience tells me is a dangerous, potentially surface-ruining proposition).

2. Acquiring a gridded dry-erase "white board" to use as a table surface. Easy to use, but I have no idea where I would acquire such a thing...especially not one with 1" squares or hexes.

3. Laying down some other gridded surface (but what!?) and covering it with a 4x6 piece of acrylic/plexiglass. I also have no idea where I would acquire this, but it would allow me to draw on paper "poster" maps, since I could slide them under the clear table "cover."

So where should I be looking for this kind of thing? Have any of you had any experience searching for this kind of thing before? Any common pitfalls and mistakes? Is there some other, better option that I should consider? Help me out! I'm eager to start building, but I'm still trying to figure out what I actually need!

 

[Croesus]

If you like the idea of plexiglass, you can pick up some flip chart paper at your local office supply store. Post-It brand has some that has a blue 1" square grid pre-printed on the paper. It's a bit pricey for a pad (25 sheets), though, so try to find an off-brand (you don't really care how sturdy the paper is, since it will be covered by the plexiglass).

Alternately, if you're just concerned about staining your mondomat, just put it under the plexiglass. You still have the option of using printed maps, and your expensive mat won't be damaged (other than cutting to size).

 

[KB9JMQ]

Well I put together a 4x8 table of plywood which I glued (liquid nails) down some dry-erase board that I got at Lowes. The table is knee high when sitting on a couch.
I then built another 3x3 table 11 inches high to set in the middle of the big table. (The little table is removable.) I put my Tac-Tiles on this. It leaves plenty of room for books, drinks, etc. under it.
Everyone loves the dry erase table for keeping track of everything rather than keep changing a character sheet.
I plan on adding undertable pencil drawers around the main table but haven't yet.
I like the idea of a lip around the main table but after trying it, I found out it wasn't worth it.
Players couldn't rest their arms on the table edge if they wanted to.
If you wanted to grid the dry-erase table I am sure someone will come along in a minute to say how to best do it.

 

[The_Universe]

Well I put together a 4x8 table of plywood which I glued (liquid nails) down some dry-erase board that I got at Lowes. The table is knee high when sitting on a couch.
I then built another 3x3 table 11 inches high to set in the middle of the big table. (The little table is removable.) I put my Tac-Tiles on this. It leaves plenty of room for books, drinks, etc. under it.
Everyone loves the dry erase table for keeping track of everything rather than keep changing a character sheet.
I plan on adding undertable pencil drawers around the main table but haven't yet.
I like the idea of a lip around the main table but after trying it, I found out it wasn't worth it.
Players couldn't rest their arms on the table edge if they wanted to.
If you wanted to grid the dry-erase table I am sure someone will come along in a minute to say how to best do it.

Is the dry erase board called something particular? I spent about an hour in my local Lowes a few weeks ago looking for Dry Erase board, and didn't come up with anything...it would have helped if the staff wasn't so standoffish, but I eventually concluded, after wandering every aisle, that they just didn't have any.

But maybe I just wasn't looking close enough....

 

[Rodrigo Istalindir]

One option to consider is self-stick dry-erase sheets. You can get them in 24x20 rolls for fairly cheap, and if someone gouges it accidentally or it suffers some other mishap, its easy to peel off and replace.

 

[smootrk]

I also suggest plexiglass for the surface. Drop a grid underneath, or even a pre-prepared large map, and in addition you can write with the dry-erase upon this plastic. Post up pics when you start to get fabrication going... a design log of sorts

 

[Mark CMG]

http://www.ergoindemand.com/specialty_white_boards.htm


Can be had cheaper elsewhere, I guess.


http://www.white-boards-and-more.com/asp/show_detail.asp?sku=MR1012&refid=FR12-MR1012


http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Grid+Line+Boards;+porcelain+steel&btnG=Google+Search

 

[KB9JMQ]

Is the dry erase board called something particular? I spent about an hour in my local Lowes a few weeks ago looking for Dry Erase board, and didn't come up with anything...it would have helped if the staff wasn't so standoffish, but I eventually concluded, after wandering every aisle, that they just didn't have any.

But maybe I just wasn't looking close enough....

In my Lowe's it was an endcap with several wall paneling samples, such as chalkboards, various paneling, cubicle walls, etc. Very near the paneling section.

 

[frankthedm]

3. Laying down some other gridded surface (but what!?) and covering it with a 4x6 piece of acrylic/plexiglass. I also have no idea where I would acquire this, but it would allow me to draw on paper "poster" maps, since I could slide them under the clear table "cover."

Make a Mosaic tile table. Choose a cheap tile that has a 1" or a 2" to the side, use a piece of wall molding for the sides ant then top with a clear vynil tabelecloth or a peice of [plexi]glass.

As for actual construction of the table, I do that sort of thing 'on the fly'. This web article should make ya' a table you and your queen could take for a test drive. IYKWIM&ITYD

 

[Baron Opal]

I'm planning to have a small lip around the edge of the table to catch dice and help me slot in larger terrain pieces...

FWIW, that little lip really irritates me when I rest my arms on a table. I either have to lean forward to rest my arms on the table or try to ignore the ridge as it digs into my arm. Depending on how thick the table is going to be a groove or runnel around the edge my slow or stop errant dice.