Fiery Todd
Explorer
Hello, Fiery Todd here with some input. Seeing as I have spent thousands of man hours in the Fiery Dragon labs researching and developing new and exciting ways to mount counters (keep your comments to yourself those whose minds live in the gutter) here’s what we “officially” recommend (which will eventually show up on our site – with pictures even).
Funds and availability of gear permitting, printing the counters out on photo paper/card stock is the likely the best way to go. It encompasses the best of all worlds. They’re relatively durable, there’s no mounting, and they’re shiny.
However, if regular bond paper is the medium, which is what I prefer, this is the process I’ve come up with…
I like Photoshop, but that’s just me. Word is just as good. Coming up with a complete list of counters first and then arranging them into “blocks” is the fastest way for mounting and cutting.
As for a mounting surface I’ve experimented a lot here but the most cost effective is foam core. I like illustration board too, which is much thicker then regular card stock, but not as thick as foam core. You need an art store around for illustration board though, so, assuming there’s a Staples or some kind of office supply store near you, foam core is the best bet. The point here is that one of the biggest complaints we’ve received about the cardstock counters is that they’re difficult to pick up – foam core eliminates this.
As for an adhesive, the spray kind is good, but I think rubber cement is better. It’s designed for mounting stuff, so there ya go. The key to using it is to spread an even, thin coat on the back of your counter paper, and then an even, thin coat on your mounting surface. Let it dry (about a minute). When actually mounting the counter paper, make sure you line it up carefully with just the top portion of the paper touching the mounting surface and then lay it out smooth like wallpaper. Press it as you lay it out to avoid any bubbling. Once it’s on, it’s like, really on there. Elmer’s, glue sticks, etc. are way too messy and will bubble.
When cutting, a metal ruler (or metal rail on some wooden ones) is a must and a cutting blade of vorpal quality is essential. Start your cutting on the outside of your counter block so that if you slip, you’ll only cut into your finger rather then the counters - No, seriously, no drinking, narcotics, or sniffing rubber cement fumes when cutting. The retractable blades are best. Be careful when cutting foam core because if you’re not dead on straight it will chip into the middle foam part. Always use a new blade when cutting a new round of counters. Sharp is good.
For protection purposes, that is, if you someone decides to slap the counters with pizza, I recommend spraying the counters with an artist’s fixative. Some office supply stores carry this stuff and any art store will have it. It will protect the image from smudging, greasy fingers, and general wear and tear. By the way, the counters have now become mini-fire bombs, so try to keep them away from your candelabras as much as possible.
If you follow this entire process, the counters will be so tough that you can load them into a sling shot and do some serious damage. We’ve tested this extensively on our gaming friends.
Yes, I’ve even laminated them. Provided you can past explaining what you’re going to need to the Staples babe, my problem with them is the bleed of laminate. However, they’re great for licking and sticking to your forehead for those intense role-playing moments.
Really, there’s no specific method, as you’ve all proven here. What works for you is what works. I like Pirate Cat’s idea too. Cheap and disposable is always good. I mean, you won’t be leaving 1x1” welts on the legs of unsuspecting passer-bys, but different strokes I guess…
Thanks for the support guys...
FDP!
Funds and availability of gear permitting, printing the counters out on photo paper/card stock is the likely the best way to go. It encompasses the best of all worlds. They’re relatively durable, there’s no mounting, and they’re shiny.
However, if regular bond paper is the medium, which is what I prefer, this is the process I’ve come up with…
I like Photoshop, but that’s just me. Word is just as good. Coming up with a complete list of counters first and then arranging them into “blocks” is the fastest way for mounting and cutting.
As for a mounting surface I’ve experimented a lot here but the most cost effective is foam core. I like illustration board too, which is much thicker then regular card stock, but not as thick as foam core. You need an art store around for illustration board though, so, assuming there’s a Staples or some kind of office supply store near you, foam core is the best bet. The point here is that one of the biggest complaints we’ve received about the cardstock counters is that they’re difficult to pick up – foam core eliminates this.
As for an adhesive, the spray kind is good, but I think rubber cement is better. It’s designed for mounting stuff, so there ya go. The key to using it is to spread an even, thin coat on the back of your counter paper, and then an even, thin coat on your mounting surface. Let it dry (about a minute). When actually mounting the counter paper, make sure you line it up carefully with just the top portion of the paper touching the mounting surface and then lay it out smooth like wallpaper. Press it as you lay it out to avoid any bubbling. Once it’s on, it’s like, really on there. Elmer’s, glue sticks, etc. are way too messy and will bubble.
When cutting, a metal ruler (or metal rail on some wooden ones) is a must and a cutting blade of vorpal quality is essential. Start your cutting on the outside of your counter block so that if you slip, you’ll only cut into your finger rather then the counters - No, seriously, no drinking, narcotics, or sniffing rubber cement fumes when cutting. The retractable blades are best. Be careful when cutting foam core because if you’re not dead on straight it will chip into the middle foam part. Always use a new blade when cutting a new round of counters. Sharp is good.
For protection purposes, that is, if you someone decides to slap the counters with pizza, I recommend spraying the counters with an artist’s fixative. Some office supply stores carry this stuff and any art store will have it. It will protect the image from smudging, greasy fingers, and general wear and tear. By the way, the counters have now become mini-fire bombs, so try to keep them away from your candelabras as much as possible.
If you follow this entire process, the counters will be so tough that you can load them into a sling shot and do some serious damage. We’ve tested this extensively on our gaming friends.
Yes, I’ve even laminated them. Provided you can past explaining what you’re going to need to the Staples babe, my problem with them is the bleed of laminate. However, they’re great for licking and sticking to your forehead for those intense role-playing moments.
Really, there’s no specific method, as you’ve all proven here. What works for you is what works. I like Pirate Cat’s idea too. Cheap and disposable is always good. I mean, you won’t be leaving 1x1” welts on the legs of unsuspecting passer-bys, but different strokes I guess…
Thanks for the support guys...
FDP!
