Dog People - Help us before we go mad!

Djeta Thernadier

First Post
Hi all,

Lets see if I can answer some of the questions...

First and foremost, giving him away is not an option. We researched Jacks before we got him, and we knew what we were getting into. We can handle him, and even if he NEVER stops his chewing and stealing of our stuff, remember, I'm WAY emphasizing the bad here. The good far outweighs the bad.

Yes, he was neutered at about 5.5 months. And yes, he still LOVES going to see his vet.

Crate/ Kennel trained. He is Crate trained. He hates , I repeat HATES being in his crate. He has to stay in the crate during the day when we are at work, and when we are eating. Because he destroys blankets, he has to sleep in it at night, instead of with us. (we had him sleeping with us for a while, but his chewing of blankets just got worse and worse). He knows not to go to the bathroom in his crate.
It took him a while (partly because of physical development) to stop urinating in his crate during the day (we're gone from 6:30 am to 6 pm during the day). However, he learned VERY quickly, through positive reinforcement, that when he is out of the crate, puppy pads or outside was the proper place to go. Puppy pads are probably going to be a lifetime thing for him (at least until we move, currently we live on the third floor with no safe direct access to the backyard), although he understands that outside is also where to go. He has not had an accident in many months, and even then, only when he was sick (I know, he has to be yelled at when he messes up even if he's sick, so he learns that it's still bad).

He learned where he's supposed to go to the bathroom in probably a week , maybe two. He also picks up "tricks" like sit, raising his paw for a bisquit, lie down, etc. very fast (week or two).

When we get home, he obviously has a lot of pent up energy to burn. We let him out of the crate and he usually runs around the apartment like a spaz until he calms down a bit. Then we feed him. He does not like eating (unless he has nothing better to do, or he's very hungry) and is distracted from eating easily. The he has to go back in his crate while we eat because try as we have, there is just no other way because he will jump up and take our food. We recently got a puppy gate, and may start trying to gate him from where we are eating so he can run around while we eat. When we're done he comes back out until we go to bed (pretty late).

We have a pretty small apartment (something eventually will change), but actually the way it's set up, he has a long hallway he can run back and forth and we don't have a lot of stuff in his way. We also have a yard, but had a very scary discovery, that a piece of fence was missing and he could slip out. We are planning to fix that up as soon as the snow clears so he can spend more time in the yard (we're even buying him a "jungle gym" like they have at his kennel that he loves). Right now, he does go in the yard sometimes, but he can't go outside alone and during the freezing cold, I worry about him (and us) being oustide for prolonged amounts of time.

I know I'll take some flack for this, but he does not get outside enough now. I know that and I suspect that is a HUGE part of the problem. This doesn't mean he doesn't get outside at all, he does and not that infrequently. But it's not every day. During the spring/summer/fall it will be every day. And next winter, when the yard is safe, it will be every day in the winter as well.

He was bought from a breeder when he was 2.5 months old. For the first month we had him, he had pneumonia and was very, very sick. We had to force feed him whatever he would take (our vet told us to give him deli meats if he wouldn't eat dog food...I suspect this may be why he is a finicky eater).

As for the suggestion about having a parakeet...I don't know...we had a "foster" cat for 2 days and the cat nearly beat the daylights out of Monty. He got scratched up terribly and we had to seperate them. Monty was also bitten on the nose by a pet rat when he was little and he is now afraid of many small animals if they get too close. He usually ignores birds, he is afraid of rabbits and most other dogs seem annoyed by him (he did recently make a "friend" at a pet supply store , and we are going to be setting up play dates with that dogs "parents" soon.)

The one thing he is not short on is affection. He is constantly being hugged, kissed, held etc. It's very odd, because he is quite submissivee
in this manner. He LOVES to be on our laps. Like if we're sitting down to watch tv and he has all his toys out, he will bring a toy up, curl up on our laps and is just content to sit there. Likewise, if I'm typing at my computer, he will jump up on my lap. It seems like no matter what I am doing, Monty prefers to be sitting on my (or anyone else's) lap.

He is not aggressive towards people. Just very, very stubborn. I know this is an endearing (and somewhat annoying) trait about Jacks.

I know a part of the problem is he doesn't get outside enough, but that will be changing within the next few weeks. We also want to look into clicker training (heard pretty nasty things about some local trainers...we live in Methuen MA, so if anyone can recommend a good one...) and doggie day care with a group of dogs while we are at work. Doggie Day care will not take him until he can demonstrate that he can come when he is called (He knows his name, we trained him with treats...but he refuses to come when called, even for a food reward) and that he understands NO!.

We've tried (mostly) the technique of yelling NO! in a loud voice when he has something he should not. And then giving him one of his toys and a treat when he drops it and praising him, but he does not respond to this at all. :(

I do not like any sort of training that involves pain. The only thing I would consider would be a nasty tasting substance (like bitter spray, which he seems to think is delicious anyway). But if there was any physical pain involved, I would not do it. Beating a dog (or anyone) into submission almost always has disasterous results, and I just could not bring myself to inflict pain upon him (ie. electronic shock collars...yikes). I would much prefer to go the route of positive reinforcement.

I also want to start him in serious obedience training. Three times a week is out of the question for financial and time reasons. Because of our work hours, we need to find a training class on the weekends (which is proving very , very hard). I personally find it hard to believe that any family with any breed of dog has three spare days a week to blow off work to go to dog training. I have heard a lot of people say these training classes are a waste of money because it only trains your dog to obey the trainer (even the ones that have the owner present). A friend lent us some training videos and I think I have read every dog obedience book there is. I am hoping that until we can find a professional who is available Saturday/Sunday that consistent training at home with us will work.
 

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MojoGM

First Post
Djeta Thernadier said:
Hi all,

We have a pretty small apartment (something eventually will change), but actually the way it's set up, he has a long hallway he can run back and forth and we don't have a lot of stuff in his way. We also have a yard, but had a very scary discovery, that a piece of fence was missing and he could slip out. We are planning to fix that up as soon as the snow clears so he can spend more time in the yard (we're even buying him a "jungle gym" like they have at his kennel that he loves). Right now, he does go in the yard sometimes, but he can't go outside alone and during the freezing cold, I worry about him (and us) being oustide for prolonged amounts of time.

I know I'll take some flack for this, but he does not get outside enough now. I know that and I suspect that is a HUGE part of the problem. This doesn't mean he doesn't get outside at all, he does and not that infrequently. But it's not every day. During the spring/summer/fall it will be every day. And next winter, when the yard is safe, it will be every day in the winter as well.

Just to clarify a point. Monty HATES the cold. Whenever we did bring him out, even with a little jacket on, he wanted to get back inside as quick as possible. In the warmer weather he loves being outside, and in a very short time he will have a nice backyard to run around in.
 

Umbran

Mod Squad
Staff member
Supporter
Djeta Thernadier said:
I know I'll take some flack for this, but he does not get outside enough now. I know that and I suspect that is a HUGE part of the problem.

Well, you shouldn't take flack for it. "Outside" is not a magic place that makes dogs (or cats) happy. The only things that make the outdoors better are the richness of the environment, the amount of space for exercise, and the availability of toilet facilities. A large part of having a small dog is that you don't need lots of outdoor space to give him a rich environment that gets him exercise.

It's very odd, because he is quite submissivee in this manner. He LOVES to be on our laps.

Hm. I'm not there to see him, but I'll mention that this is not necessarily submission. Dominance and submission isn't about aggression and chewing. It's about control. If Monte is getting what he wants, and feels like he has the power at that moment, he may feel no need to display or act out.

I mean, think of it from his point of vierw. He's getting his toy and attention from you, on his demand. He's the one sitting on you. Who is really in control here? :)

... We also want to look into clicker training (heard pretty nasty things about some local trainers...we live in Methuen MA, so if anyone can recommend a good one...)

I'll ask my fiancee about Boston area trainers and/or behavior specialists. In the meantime, KidCthulhu is a good person to talk to.

I do not like any sort of training that involves pain.

Negative reinforcement training rarely works well anyway, so feel free to dislike it :)

Three times a week is out of the question for financial and time reasons.

Oh, I know. Most people don't have that kind of time or money for a pet. But the unfortunate truth is that what you have available doesn't change what may be required to eliminate the behavior.

You do your best, and maybe one day a week with a trainer will be enough. But maybe it won't. While it is certainly worth taking your best stab at it, your best may not be enough to stop him, and you'll have to figure out other ways to deal. I know I sound pessimistic, but I'm trying more to be a realist, so that as you try (and hopefully succeed) to get him trained, you also mull over what you can do if the training doesn't do the trick.

A friend lent us some training videos and I think I have read every dog obedience book there is. I am hoping that until we can find a professional who is available Saturday/Sunday that consistent training at home with us will work.

Unfortunately, Sturgeon's Law applies - 90% of everything is crud, including dog training books and videos. You don't actually have to know what you're talking about in order to make a video or write a book. Even if the information you got was 100% correct, those things are generally targetted at owners of typical dogs. Jacks are exceptional, and usually require more than what the typical dog needs.
 

Djeta Thernadier

First Post
Umbran said:
Oh, I know. Most people don't have that kind of time or money for a pet. But the unfortunate truth is that what you have available doesn't change what may be required to eliminate the behavior.

You do your best, and maybe one day a week with a trainer will be enough. But maybe it won't. While it is certainly worth taking your best stab at it, your best may not be enough to stop him, and you'll have to figure out other ways to deal. I know I sound pessimistic, but I'm trying more to be a realist, so that as you try (and hopefully succeed) to get him trained, you also mull over what you can do if the training doesn't do the trick.

Jacks are exceptional, and usually require more than what the typical dog needs.

I should also clarify (not to Umbran...to everyone :) ) that just because can't take him to a pro 3 days a week, doesn't mean he won't be trained at home during "training time only" sessions with us, to go over what we learned with the pro one day a week.

Jacks are exceptional. That does not just mean in bad ways. I have found having Monty in my life to be the best thing , the best pet I have ever had. For all his naughty behavior, I'd say 90% of the time, he is better in a lot of ways than past dogs I've had. Whether it's because of his breed or just the way he is, he's a great dog. He just needs a lot of schooling.

Thank you for the great responses!
 

Angcuru

First Post
I have a similar situation with one of my cats. Little white kitten, by name of Dixie, is a fearless, spunky, hyperactive little bugger who loves to play in the water, and to chew on people. I could be sitting down to dinner, and she'll hop up onto the chair next to me, onto the table, onto my shoulder, and sit there like a parrot chewing on my ear. Kinda funny, actually. :)

ANYway...

Although I myself don't have a dog, I heavily agree with Umbran that what is popularly known as negative reinforcement should be avoided. We've discussed all manners of behavorial training and development in my psychology class, which apply to all creatures with even a semblance of intelligence. Popular negative reinforcement only serves to instill negative qualities in the creature being reinforced.

This is the central downfall of conventional punishment, whether applied to humans or to canines. We discussed an alternative, more effective method of behavorial reinforcement about a week ago, which I took extensive notes on. I'll post the important stuff up when I get access to said notes, which are currently at home, as I'm in the campus computer lab right now. I should get to them by say...3 o'clock P.M. EST.
 
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Angcuru

First Post
Actually, negative reinforcement is any stimulus whose escape of avoidance increases int frequency of the behavior that it follows. A positive reinforcement is any stimulus that increased the frequency of the behavior that it follows.

Punishment is any event following a response that decreases it likelihood of occurring again. The most effective way of reducing the frequency of a behavior (punishment) barring physical abuse is what is called response cost. This is when a reinforcer or positive state of affairs is removed, such as losing privileges.

I'd say that the next time Monte chews something up, take a bunch of stuff that he really likes and stash it away where he can't see or get to it. The next day, put it back. Each time he chews something up, repeat this. Eventually it should click in his little puppy head that when he chews something up, his stuff disappears. Also, each day that he goes without chewing on something, give him a snack or something. When he chews on something, no snack.

This way, you are combining positive reinforcement (of non-chewing) with punishment (of chewing), which has been proven to be the best method to reduce unwanted behavior.

I think this just might work for you. :)
 

Kahuna Burger

First Post
eris404 said:
2. When our dog came to us for affection, we made him work for it by performing a small trick, usually making him sit. I would not pet him if he ignored the command. This took a lot of getting used to and I hated it at first, but this probably helped more than anything.

I usually call this sort of thing "dominance protocols" when I'm explaining it to new pet owners, and I'd second it as a very good idea when dealing with 'strong willed' dogs (a catagory I'd defintily put JRs in). The 'timeouts' can be good too, though its a fine line when it comes to using the crate as a punishment. They should want to go in there, not see it as any sort of place where they go when they're bad...

No really good advice I have that hasn't already been given. Good luck.

Edit: one other thing on dominance - don't play tug with strong willed dogs or those you are having trouble training. And defintily don't let them win. ;)

Kahuna Burger
 
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Umbran

Mod Squad
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Supporter
Angcuru said:
I'd say that the next time Monte chews something up, take a bunch of stuff that he really likes and stash it away where he can't see or get to it. The next day, put it back.

Probably won't work. For dogs and cats, cause and effect must follow on each other's heels. Negative reinforcements have to be immediate and direct. You've got to give them a stimulus they don't like at the moment they are misbehaving. If the stimulus is not immediately negative, or is removed in time from the behavior to be prevented, the animal is not likely to make the connection.

In this case, with all the other things going on when he chews (like Mommy saying "No!", and so on) Monty is unlikely to be interested in the toy at the moment he's being punished. At that moment, he doesn't care about the toy, so there's no negative stimulus. Later on, he might be upset about not being able to find the toy, but he won't then make the connection to his previous behavior.
 

Angcuru

First Post
If he doesn't like getting wet, you could try keeping a couple squirt guns around the house and squirt him whenever he chews on stuff. Or get one of them dog whistles and follow the same process.
 

Djeta Thernadier

First Post
Update

We worked with him a bit last night to try and teach him to drop things when he fetches them. It's not much but it's a start. We spent a good solid twenty minutes doing nothing but tossing a ball down a long hallway/flight of stairs, and having him bring it back, and giving him a treat if he dropped the ball instead of hording it like he usually does (my goal is to eventually have him learn that when we say DROP, we mean drop whatever you are holding).

He picked up on what we wanted him to do and started doing it after about 5 tries. He's a smart dog. After a while I want to move on to other objects, like giving him other toys and getting to understand the command itself, not just in the context of a game.

He'd been playing for a while beforehand, so after about 40 runs up and down that stairway, he was pretty tired, and we had no trouble getting him into his crate to sleep when it was bedtime for everyone. We will repeat this again tonight.

I think he had fun too.

Jacks are very strong willed. If he were my familiar, I think he'd have at least a +10 to all his will saves.
 

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