ledded
Herder of monkies
Hmm. I was under the impression, probably mistaken, that the Mensur was outlawed or heavily restricted at least by the late 1970's, causing quite a few fencing fraternities to go 'underground' with their practices with relative success since it wasnt especially enforced. I havent read up on these practices in quite some time though, and I could be entirely mixed up with something else.Dogbrain said:Chris's Mensur days were back at Universitaet (in Germany), and Mensur is legal in Germany.
Nonetheless, his description of the Mensur that he wrote into one of his magazines is an incredibly good read.
Oh, my comment was not a slight against the rapier in any way, man, more of a "my body type and level of atheletic strength are such that I would most likely hurt myself right now with a rapier than someone else"Dogbrain said:If yo ulook at the manuals
Someone with the practice and athleticism needed would be quite an effective and deadly opponent, but that aint me.
Again, I misspoke in the interest of brevity, and make no claim to a rapier's inability to deliver cuts whatsoever. I wasnt talking about the fromage of the SCA (which doesnt extend to just draw cuts, IMO) but more of the ones I've read/been taught that you described above (hack-plus-draw). I've always read and was taught that a rapier, because of the length and often thicker cross-section, was *sometimes* slower and less reliable for slashing attacks, but they could be done effectively to give someone grievous, but not necessarily instantly fatal, wounds. I have done only limited actual rapier work myself admittedly, but I've seen enough that I know that a properly executed cut with one could easily sever a windpipe, tendons or arteries in the arm or leg, or exposed muscle mass. Within limits imposed by your training/ability and the length/cross-section of the sword, obviously, but could be done.Dogbrain said:Rapiers couldn't cut like a good English short sword could, but they could cut better than a mere "draw cut", if, by "draw cut" you mean gently laying the edge upon an opponent and cheese-slicing away in SCA fashion. The thing is that the cutting technique did change from a straight-on hack to a "hack-plus-draw". This technique was and is also used in dueling sabre from the 19th century, unwards, and one could be killed from a cut with a dueling sabre. Severing an arm through both forearm bones would be quite unlikely, but cutting down to the bone, itself, crippling the arm, could be done with a rapier of proper cross section.
In a way, claiming that rapiers "cannot cut" or are only worth harassing cuts is like claiming that human beings "cannot climb trees" because they are not as agile as are spider monkeys. That being said, I was taught to thrust when I could and cut when I must.
Duelling sabers, at least the old schlaeger that I own, seemed to me much more well suited to delivering some quick vicious cuts than some of the longer/thicker rapiers I've handled. The couple I have at home almost feel like they've got a fulcrum just above your hand because of how they're weighted , and while much heavier isnt that much slower than my olympic fencing saber (but would obviously tire me out quicker if used the same way). Of course, I never was one of those whippy-fast-I-barely-touched-you saber guys, and that was why I quit foil for saber and epee; I wanted to practice technique, not who had the whippier toy. But hey, that's not a bad thing at all, modern fencing is a *sport*, and while has martial roots and application is not as much about perfecting your swordsmanship as it is winning.
Anyway, I agree with you on the issue of cuts with a rapier; sorry I didnt give a better comment in the first place on it.
Oh yes, I've had that discussion with a few folks before. I saw a 'bastard sword' once that was about the same blade length as a knightly arming sword, just maybe 6 inches or less over what most folks thought was a short swords length, with the handle being long enough for two hands easily and a nice scent-stopper looking pommel. Very quick looking. I think that is one reason, IMO, that the Japanese sword gives the impression of being so fast, because the two-handed grip on a lighter sword that could easily be wielded with one hand gives you all kinds of ability to apply physics and leverage to your technique.Dogbrain said:Silver's ideal longs word had a blade nearly as short as his short sword, but with a handle that could accomodate two hands. Think of the speed.
Right, that is what I've gathered also. Even in sword and shield, you had to be careful because an iron shield boss or rim *could* break your extremely valuable sword. In Shinkendo we were taught several blocks that look like you clash your sword against someone's during their swing and immediatly thrust or slash, a "counterattack in opposition" that is very Talhoffer-like to me. In reality, it resembles more of a slightly flat 'beat-attack' like you can find in fencing, accompanied by stepping in with a 'cut-draw' type of slash to the arms or neck (or a thrust, depending on the angle of incoming attack). It does involve the edge, of course, but we were taught to try to avoid *exact* edge to edge contact by barely turning the sword (but not enough to catch a strike all the way across the flat, that too is a very *bad* thing). In reality, that is optimistic thinking when someone is trying to end your life, and edge to edge would happen more often than you would like.Dogbrain said:In the old European tradition, any blade-on-blade contact is undesirable, if sometimes necessary. The ideal, as far as I can tell, from the days of the sword-and-buckler men up to the end of the rapier era was a flawless counterattack. The best defense was to disappear from where your opponent attacked. Now, the Germans realized that this was often unrealistic, so they taught a lot of what would be called "counterattacks in opposition" today. Of course, if one counterattacks in opposition with a cut against a cut, that may look like a parry to the uninitiated.
I was under the impression that is was late 16th/early 17th, but I'm not sure myself.Dogbrain said:However, at some point between the beginning of time and the 18th century, Europe adopted the edge parry as a preferred method, and I'm going to guess that it was some time in the 16th century, given how Swetnam talks.
It doesnt surprise me however, looking at the propensity for some of the heavier cavalry sabers, wider infantry hangers, and thicker-cross sections in some swords you find 18th century onwards. Looking at some of the later basket-hilts, the back edge gets so thick on some that it looks like not only could they take a good bit of edge to edge without breaking, but if it does dull it, so what, he's still going to crush your collarbone with it or shatter your ankle even if it doesnt have any edge at all left
I've heard this attributed to better metalworking methods, heavier cross-sections, etc while at the same time someone always comes to refute it with another theory. I have my own ideas based on a combination of factors, but suffice it to say that humans don't always go the right direction in warfare historically just because of true efficiency (c'mon... Patton sabers delivering thrusting attacks at a full charge on horseback? That had to hurt the wrist a bit ).
Really though, a lot of edge-to-edge parrying has a lot to do with the design of your sword; most of what I was originally thinking was in a japanese sword mindset, but many other types with less similar design characteristics would most likely be a good bit better suited IMO.
But even as my Sensei taught us that sharp was good, don't ruin your edge, he always left us with this thought: sharp or strong doesnt cut, *technique* cuts. I've seen a 225lb linebacker-looking guy with one of Sensei's freshly sharpened you-could-shave-with-it test-cutting swords get stuck in tatami mats and almost knock over the stand with brute force, and then the 98 lb girl behind him with her own sword that hasnt been sharpened in over a year gets up and cuts like a hot wire through butter.
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