Really? About all you could so is compare the instruments' voices. And projection.
...and comfort.
.....and visual aesthetics.
Thinking about picking up a guitar
Really? About all you could so is compare the instruments' voices. And projection.
...and comfort.
.....and visual aesthetics.
I literally strummed guitars as the guy took them off the wall and tuned them. Slide your left hand up and down the neck, and see if you feel the metal bits sticking out the sides much. If so, pass. Watch a bit of justin, he can give you a note or two, and how to hold it online. I think he has a video on choosing a guitar also. I had the advantage of having played on a cheap guitar for a couple of months, so I could already tell the difference in how hard it was to play. Heck, the sound matters too. Have a guy in the store play different models so you can hear the sound. Also, weight matters. Just hold them like upu would if playing. Walk around the store and see if it feels too heavy.
I kid, but Zakurie is basically right. Even if YOU can't play, someone in the store- customer or salesman- will be happy to demo damn near anything. And that will help you figure out the differences that sound pleasant to YOUR ears.
Lesseeeee...some other "obvious" stuff:
1) the deeper the acoustic body, the more volume it has. The "thinline" acoustics are really designed for playing through an acoustic amp or a PA system. Their relatively quiet voices are still going to be loud enough to fill a room with sound, but will lack the bass of a larger-bodied guitar.
2) wood affects the tone. Spruce & cedar tops are popular for a classic steel-string. That is the typical sound most people think of when they want an acoustic. Mahogany is a warmer sounding wood, while maple guitars are bright and ringing.
3) body shape will also affect the guitar's voice. The traditional shape- without the cutaway- will have the biggest, most resonant sound. The cutaway is, thus, a compromise, trading some sonic richness for upper fret access.
4) as you'll find, most steel-string acoustics these days will come equipped with on-board electrinics for use when playing plugged-in. But not all. Some are still made as pure acoustics, and if you can find one of those, you can get a little bit of a savings on the price. I just saw a Carvin Cobalt- a discontinued acoustic- without on-board electronics on Reverb.com that was under $300. New, that guitar was maybe $100-150 more...but its bigger cousins WITH the built-in EQ and acoustic pickup cost at least $200 more than that.
https://reverb.com/item/134902-carvin-c-250-cobalt-dreadnaught-acoustic-w-ohsc
Lesseeeee...some other "obvious" stuff:
1) the deeper the acoustic body, the more volume it has. The "thinline" acoustics are really designed for playing through an acoustic amp or a PA system. Their relatively quiet voices are still going to be loud enough to fill a room with sound, but will lack the bass of a larger-bodied guitar.
2) wood affects the tone. Spruce & cedar tops are popular for a classic steel-string. That is the typical sound most people think of when they want an acoustic. Mahogany is a warmer sounding wood, while maple guitars are bright and ringing.
3) body shape will also affect the guitar's voice. The traditional shape- without the cutaway- will have the biggest, most resonant sound. The cutaway is, thus, a compromise, trading some sonic richness for upper fret access.
4) as you'll find, most steel-string acoustics these days will come equipped with on-board electrinics for use when playing plugged-in. But not all. Some are still made as pure acoustics, and if you can find one of those, you can get a little bit of a savings on the price. I just saw a Carvin Cobalt- a discontinued acoustic- without on-board electronics on Reverb.com that was under $300. New, that guitar was maybe $100-150 more...but its bigger cousins WITH the built-in EQ and acoustic pickup cost at least $200 more than that.
https://reverb.com/item/134902-carvin-c-250-cobalt-dreadnaught-acoustic-w-ohsc
Yes, but a real guitar player would sit down with the thing, and take ten or fifteen minutes (or more, if you're planning on laying down a thousand or more) to noodle out a few of their favorite tunes. I can't really do that - I can try clumsily running scales, but that's about it.
Like I said, nobody ever got fired for buying IBM.
Don't underspend or overspend. You'll probably be fine. Don't over think it.
Its not like you can't buy a better one after awhile...
You might find this visual chart of traditional body styles helpful:
Among those, I prefer the Grand Auditorium, Dreadnaughts, and Jumbos.
Among those, I prefer the Grand Auditorium, Dreadnaughts, and Jumbos.
All quite true. The first one needs to be playable, but otherwise doesn't need to be particularly special.
Okay, I just like that a guitar can be legitimately called a "Dreadnaught"
I look forward to hearing about your quest to find a guitar. If you're a contemplative shopper, identify the axes you like and somebody here will comment. If you just go in and buy, tell us what you bought.
We won't put it down.
One key item: try to find one that stays in tune. Get the sales guy to tune it, play something, then re-check the tuning. If it's getting off after some playing, it's got shoddy tuning pegs.
Most of my guitars have locking nuts, and stay in tune between sessions. I'm at least advising checking that it stays in tune within the same session
There's nothing worse than the guitar you spend a whole session tuning, because it keeps drifting out. That's partly olds strings, partly crappy tuning pegs.
We won't put it down.
One key item: try to find one that stays in tune. Get the sales guy to tune it, play something, then re-check the tuning. If it's getting off after some playing, it's got shoddy tuning pegs.
Most of my guitars have locking nuts, and stay in tune between sessions. I'm at least advising checking that it stays in tune within the same session
There's nothing worse than the guitar you spend a whole session tuning, because it keeps drifting out. That's partly olds strings, partly crappy tuning pegs.
Aw, you can go ahead and put it down. You guys have given me some great advice. If I get a cheap guitar, it is because I've made an active choice, knowing that I am apt ot spend more money again if I stick with it. I'll be open to criticism.
1000x amen to that!I look forward to hearing about your quest to find a guitar. If you're a contemplative shopper, identify the axes you like and somebody here will comment. If you just go in and buy, tell us what you bought.
We won't put it down.
One key item: try to find one that stays in tune. Get the sales guy to tune it, play something, then re-check the tuning. If it's getting off after some playing, it's got shoddy tuning pegs.
Most of my guitars have locking nuts, and stay in tune between sessions. I'm at least advising checking that it stays in tune within the same session
There's nothing worse than the guitar you spend a whole session tuning, because it keeps drifting out. That's partly olds strings, partly crappy tuning pegs.
Holding tune is so, so, so fundamental to playing satisfaction it isn't funny. It is why some people will advise that, if you're trying guitars in a store and find one you like, buy THAT guitar, not one from the storage room or warehouse.
It is also a factor only partially related to guitar price, because even some cheap guitars are made with good (or sometimes, locking) tuners. One of my first electrics is like that: it's an inexpensive Dean EVO Special Select- @$500 new- that holds tune like the strings were glued in place. There are other aspects of that axe that tell you it isn't pricey, but its ability to hold tune is the equal of damn near every other guitar I own.
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