Reactions:
1) All of the answers along the lines of "Day 1" are spot on.
2) Did the OP just start playing RPGs? This has been a debate since...well, see answer above.
3) As for DMs being adversarial, I'm sure EGG wrote Tomb of Horrors to encourage players to explore the nuances of their characters' personalities.
The start of the game had a lot of focus on skill. And no, not just using your character's voice and inflection, but battle strategy, preparation for dungeons, evaluation of equipment, light sources, supplies and weapons. There was plenty of problem solving, riddle solving and social interaction. There was mapping, getting lost, bad consequence for bad decisions...
and play acting as well.
The game was unique because it had BOTH but its roots are in wargaming. It was not vampire or some free form collaboarative story time.
But the truth is that the game is owned by its participants. We can play how we want to play. Different choices do not mean it has gone totally astray.
I have played intermittently for more than 35 years and I have seen different takes on things. But to look at 5e and say the game has degenerated into a dice game suggests
A. that a dice game is bad
B. that is how you choose to play it, or
C. you might not have read very carefully where they discuss using dice in uncertain situations and common sense in others.
To be really good at the game can mean use of dice in ways that do not take from the narrative or slow it down excessively. For my group, dice are fun and wanted. The numbers are fun. Numbers with roleplaying is the most fun. I suspect most pay attention to theater and dice.
What a fun, fun hobby/distraction...my absolute top choice for fun...