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A question for you firearms aficionados...
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<blockquote data-quote="Izod" data-source="post: 352223" data-attributes="member: 3585"><p>A few things about sabots to keep in mind. if you use a sabot method called paper patching then when the projectile is fired the only thing left at the scene will be the paper patch and this will make any forencis id useless as the paper will be suficently dammaged by the firing as to be useless and this will also leave no rifeling marks on the projectile. This method will also prevent wear to the barel of the gun. </p><p></p><p> Another thing to keep in mind when when talking about sabots is the only real performance differance is that the projectile is usually traveling about 15-25% faster and thus has slightly more energy. This would not translate into more penetration power unless you were firing an AP round. What I would do in this situation is increase the crit multiplier by one.</p><p></p><p>The only real drawback with sabots is that they may have a tendancy to not feed. This is caused by the fact that the feed ramp on most firearms are not designed to have sabots loaded. But in most cases this can be easily fixed by a decent gunsmith.</p><p></p><p>Another question for the rest of you gun guys out there. How would you handle frangible ammo? For those of you that haven't heard of it it is projectiles that are made of pressed metal dust. They are usually used in live fire/shoot house exercises. The idea being that they desentergrate on impact. what would the dammage be if you hit an unarmored target with one of these rounds? What about glazers and the like. Again I think that increasing the crit multiplier is the way to go. as we already have the example of hollow point vs. full metal jackets to go by.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Izod, post: 352223, member: 3585"] A few things about sabots to keep in mind. if you use a sabot method called paper patching then when the projectile is fired the only thing left at the scene will be the paper patch and this will make any forencis id useless as the paper will be suficently dammaged by the firing as to be useless and this will also leave no rifeling marks on the projectile. This method will also prevent wear to the barel of the gun. Another thing to keep in mind when when talking about sabots is the only real performance differance is that the projectile is usually traveling about 15-25% faster and thus has slightly more energy. This would not translate into more penetration power unless you were firing an AP round. What I would do in this situation is increase the crit multiplier by one. The only real drawback with sabots is that they may have a tendancy to not feed. This is caused by the fact that the feed ramp on most firearms are not designed to have sabots loaded. But in most cases this can be easily fixed by a decent gunsmith. Another question for the rest of you gun guys out there. How would you handle frangible ammo? For those of you that haven't heard of it it is projectiles that are made of pressed metal dust. They are usually used in live fire/shoot house exercises. The idea being that they desentergrate on impact. what would the dammage be if you hit an unarmored target with one of these rounds? What about glazers and the like. Again I think that increasing the crit multiplier is the way to go. as we already have the example of hollow point vs. full metal jackets to go by. [/QUOTE]
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