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General Tabletop Discussion
*Dungeons & Dragons
D&D Dungeon Map Design: Good and Bad
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<blockquote data-quote="Lanefan" data-source="post: 9821168" data-attributes="member: 29398"><p>There's a difference between map design (how to make good maps) and dungeon design (how to make interesting dungeons to be mapped).</p><p></p><p>Much of the above discussion has been on dungeon design; I'll here touch on actual map design.</p><p></p><p>What makes a good map:</p><p></p><p>--- clarity <em>clarity</em> <strong>clarity</strong>. It's first and foremost a functional document for quick and efficient use by the DM, meaning needless artistic flourishes - and on a functional document any and all artistic flourishes count as needless - have to go.</p><p>--- colour can be your friend; use different distinctive colours for different elements e.g. red for room numbers, green for elevation markers, etc.</p><p>--- clearly show which way the stairs go i.e. which end is up and which is down, and yes this includes short three-stair sets into a sunken or raised room.</p><p>--- show both ends of the stairs <em>on the same map</em> so we can tell how much horizontal distance they cover</p><p>--- show elevation changes by actually putting elevation numbers on the map! Set the entry room as 0' altitude, then anywhere the elevation differs (including other levels of the dungeon!) show the floor's elevation variance from that original zero point.</p><p>--- show which way the doors open (this has of late become my pet peeve with dungeon maps)</p><p>--- do <em>not</em> show things on the map that can move or be moved; this includes any and all dungeon occupants and most small furniture.</p><p>--- if the rooms etc. are mostly rectangular, line them up with the damn grid rather than have the grid at an angle to everything (one old Judges Guild module I own and ran has the grid at about a 10-degree offset angle from 95% of the otherwise-nicely-rectangular-chambered dungeon, very annoying!).</p><p>--- use grid sizes that make sense for what's being mapped. 10' grid does for most things and IMO should be the default, 5' is fine if the area is very tight or small, 20' or even bigger is all that's needed for large spaces.</p><p>--- do <strong>not</strong> use hard-to-multiply or odd grid sizes. I've seen maps with 8' grid, 7.5' grid, even one with 3' grid - no.</p><p>--- if there's lots of verticality involved, show a side view as well as a top-down map. Avoid isometric at all costs.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lanefan, post: 9821168, member: 29398"] There's a difference between map design (how to make good maps) and dungeon design (how to make interesting dungeons to be mapped). Much of the above discussion has been on dungeon design; I'll here touch on actual map design. What makes a good map: --- clarity [I]clarity[/I] [B]clarity[/B]. It's first and foremost a functional document for quick and efficient use by the DM, meaning needless artistic flourishes - and on a functional document any and all artistic flourishes count as needless - have to go. --- colour can be your friend; use different distinctive colours for different elements e.g. red for room numbers, green for elevation markers, etc. --- clearly show which way the stairs go i.e. which end is up and which is down, and yes this includes short three-stair sets into a sunken or raised room. --- show both ends of the stairs [I]on the same map[/I] so we can tell how much horizontal distance they cover --- show elevation changes by actually putting elevation numbers on the map! Set the entry room as 0' altitude, then anywhere the elevation differs (including other levels of the dungeon!) show the floor's elevation variance from that original zero point. --- show which way the doors open (this has of late become my pet peeve with dungeon maps) --- do [I]not[/I] show things on the map that can move or be moved; this includes any and all dungeon occupants and most small furniture. --- if the rooms etc. are mostly rectangular, line them up with the damn grid rather than have the grid at an angle to everything (one old Judges Guild module I own and ran has the grid at about a 10-degree offset angle from 95% of the otherwise-nicely-rectangular-chambered dungeon, very annoying!). --- use grid sizes that make sense for what's being mapped. 10' grid does for most things and IMO should be the default, 5' is fine if the area is very tight or small, 20' or even bigger is all that's needed for large spaces. --- do [B]not[/B] use hard-to-multiply or odd grid sizes. I've seen maps with 8' grid, 7.5' grid, even one with 3' grid - no. --- if there's lots of verticality involved, show a side view as well as a top-down map. Avoid isometric at all costs. [/QUOTE]
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