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Double Axe - where?
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<blockquote data-quote="slorak" data-source="post: 1926770" data-attributes="member: 17356"><p>Like I mentioned before it would be quite a bit easier to just get rid of the handle altogether and drill into both axe blades and insert a 1/16 brass rod as the haft. Drilling into the staff portion is doable but very difficult. As a beginner I would definitely go this route. </p><p></p><p>I would also make sure that your pin vise came with 1/16 drill bits or at least 1/8th anything larger is probably too large!</p><p></p><p>Believe me there is no end to the things you will want to aquire. A vise is a must if you plan on doing a lot of conversion work (make sure it has rubber grips so you don't mangle any figures) that way you can secure the figure and make drilling easier. Another thing that has been a godsend to me is a dremel with a flex shaft attachment.</p><p></p><p>GW sand is always good to have (I personally like the mix of sizes in the sand for variety). I would also recommend static grass - it looks better than regular flock.</p><p></p><p>Good paint brushes are everything. I know the Windsor and Newton Series 7's are expensive but they are worth it. I have had mine for almost 2 years and they are still going strong. A bad brush or a synthetic will warp and give you nothing but grief - and in the long run will end up costing you more than a couple good brushes. Size 1 should be a good brush to use for just about anything. The other sizes that I find very useful are a size 0 and a 000 for small detail work. Also a good flat synthetic brush (maybe 2 of different sizes) would be good for general base drybrushing. </p><p></p><p>I have a few basing articles and such up on my site and I usually try to be as descriptive as possible about what I am doing. Best piece of advise I could give you is don't be afraid to try something. I look back to my first models and look at where I am now and I have definitely come a long way. That is pretty much most of everyones story. The internet is definitely a great place to go for advise!</p><p></p><p>Another thing to note - GW paints have a horrible reputation for drying up real quick. I know they recently changed their lid design but I don't know if that problem has been fixed. I used to use GW paints a long time ago and didn't really have much of a problem with them - but if you are looking long term into this hobby you might want to invest in either Vallejo or Reaper paints. I swear by the Vallejo Game Color (Model color is great too) which mimics the GW paint line. I have not Used the Reaper pro paint but hear it is really good too.</p><p></p><p>Hope that helps more.</p><p></p><p>Cheers,</p><p></p><p>-Mike</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="slorak, post: 1926770, member: 17356"] Like I mentioned before it would be quite a bit easier to just get rid of the handle altogether and drill into both axe blades and insert a 1/16 brass rod as the haft. Drilling into the staff portion is doable but very difficult. As a beginner I would definitely go this route. I would also make sure that your pin vise came with 1/16 drill bits or at least 1/8th anything larger is probably too large! Believe me there is no end to the things you will want to aquire. A vise is a must if you plan on doing a lot of conversion work (make sure it has rubber grips so you don't mangle any figures) that way you can secure the figure and make drilling easier. Another thing that has been a godsend to me is a dremel with a flex shaft attachment. GW sand is always good to have (I personally like the mix of sizes in the sand for variety). I would also recommend static grass - it looks better than regular flock. Good paint brushes are everything. I know the Windsor and Newton Series 7's are expensive but they are worth it. I have had mine for almost 2 years and they are still going strong. A bad brush or a synthetic will warp and give you nothing but grief - and in the long run will end up costing you more than a couple good brushes. Size 1 should be a good brush to use for just about anything. The other sizes that I find very useful are a size 0 and a 000 for small detail work. Also a good flat synthetic brush (maybe 2 of different sizes) would be good for general base drybrushing. I have a few basing articles and such up on my site and I usually try to be as descriptive as possible about what I am doing. Best piece of advise I could give you is don't be afraid to try something. I look back to my first models and look at where I am now and I have definitely come a long way. That is pretty much most of everyones story. The internet is definitely a great place to go for advise! Another thing to note - GW paints have a horrible reputation for drying up real quick. I know they recently changed their lid design but I don't know if that problem has been fixed. I used to use GW paints a long time ago and didn't really have much of a problem with them - but if you are looking long term into this hobby you might want to invest in either Vallejo or Reaper paints. I swear by the Vallejo Game Color (Model color is great too) which mimics the GW paint line. I have not Used the Reaper pro paint but hear it is really good too. Hope that helps more. Cheers, -Mike [/QUOTE]
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