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Message: <blockquote data-quote="jasper" data-source="post: 1896606" data-attributes="member: 277">Some random thoughts.First you have to boiling the wort (honey water mixture) which will kill off the yeasts. To start the fermentation either use the dregs from the last batch (still some live yeast beasts in dregs) or just cover with cloth over night for a natural yeast. Second 90% is good if you racking a lot of mead  for a long term mead (1 year) if you going for beer like mead one rack is okay. I lose maybe a cup per 5 gallons of mead when I rack. Or not rack at all. Pour the wort into the clean keg, cool, add yeast, pound in the bung, wait 7+ days. Furthermore you are talking about small batches like home brewer today. The economies of scale would work. Mead today can cover anything from light beer to wine depending on yeast used. A beer like mead would be drinkable in 7 days after you bottle. If you just pour it into a keg call it 14 to 21 days.Different yeasts will give different alcohol rating and flavors. Wild (natural yeast out of air) can change the flavor between bottles. I had one wild yeast get into two of two liters bottles of mead. The bottle had stress fractures from the amount CO being created. Some of my friends liked it some did not. In D&D I have a brewer who vats have purify water spell cast on his mixing vats. I bump his prices up a little from retail. Mead has various names depending on what you cook (place) in it to flavor the batch.  So I generally tell people what I flavor it with. Your brew shop can be active year round if you include beer and ale. Also decide if your brew shop owns the bees. By owning the bees you get extra income, beeswax candles, use of bees for the farmers or lords estates, etc.</blockquote>

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