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ENWorld Sculpting Project #1 The Wizard's Lab (complete)
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<blockquote data-quote="pogre" data-source="post: 2495107" data-attributes="member: 6588"><p>Thanks for the question Dog Soldier - great name by the way. I had the pleasure of discussing the Lakota tribe and the Wounded Knee Massacre with the great Dee Brown many years ago, but I digress...</p><p></p><p>I will be doing gravity casts employing rtv molds. RTV molds are two-part, high-strength, rubber molds that are literally poured on the original. Unlike spincaster molds, neither pressure nor heat is applied to the original in the process. This gives us the advantage of being able to use nearly everything in our figures - plastic card, wood, certain clays, kneadatite, brass, copper - all of these materials are just fine.</p><p></p><p>Naturally, drop casting does have some disadvantages.</p><p></p><p>1. Very large models are harder to do. This is somewhat true with spincasters as well - but I know from trying to cast an entire dragon body you are much better of doing these things in pieces. Not something that's likely to come up this time around.</p><p></p><p>2. Enclosed loops are generally a no go. The mold will rarely fill an enclosed loop. If you think of a spoked wagon wheel - that's a good example of what I'm talking about. It's just tough to get the pewter to fill the whole loop.</p><p></p><p>3. If your model sticks far out on a different axis, especially with an undercut, it will require cutting it apart and making a multi-part model. Take a look of some of those old chainmail figures or the new privateer press multi-piece models to see example of what I mean.</p><p></p><p>Don't let this limit you at all. I believe I could drop cast almost anything Reaper has on the market right now for instance. Would it look as sharp and detailed? </p><p>Not to the expert eye, but it would be darn close. </p><p></p><p>I have been casting miniatures using these methods since 1994 or so. I have not done much of it in the last three years, so I'm looking forward to picking up the old insulated gloves once again.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="pogre, post: 2495107, member: 6588"] Thanks for the question Dog Soldier - great name by the way. I had the pleasure of discussing the Lakota tribe and the Wounded Knee Massacre with the great Dee Brown many years ago, but I digress... I will be doing gravity casts employing rtv molds. RTV molds are two-part, high-strength, rubber molds that are literally poured on the original. Unlike spincaster molds, neither pressure nor heat is applied to the original in the process. This gives us the advantage of being able to use nearly everything in our figures - plastic card, wood, certain clays, kneadatite, brass, copper - all of these materials are just fine. Naturally, drop casting does have some disadvantages. 1. Very large models are harder to do. This is somewhat true with spincasters as well - but I know from trying to cast an entire dragon body you are much better of doing these things in pieces. Not something that's likely to come up this time around. 2. Enclosed loops are generally a no go. The mold will rarely fill an enclosed loop. If you think of a spoked wagon wheel - that's a good example of what I'm talking about. It's just tough to get the pewter to fill the whole loop. 3. If your model sticks far out on a different axis, especially with an undercut, it will require cutting it apart and making a multi-part model. Take a look of some of those old chainmail figures or the new privateer press multi-piece models to see example of what I mean. Don't let this limit you at all. I believe I could drop cast almost anything Reaper has on the market right now for instance. Would it look as sharp and detailed? Not to the expert eye, but it would be darn close. I have been casting miniatures using these methods since 1994 or so. I have not done much of it in the last three years, so I'm looking forward to picking up the old insulated gloves once again. [/QUOTE]
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