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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Roadkill101" data-source="post: 3094449" data-attributes="member: 30952">When I bought my house, the previous owner left behind two 4'x8' sheets of white tile board.  I acquired a fairly large table (used) for free along the way.  I placed a sheet of said tile board on the table and using a red "Sharpie" laid out a 1/2" grid with a 1" border.  Dry erase worked on the tile board, but bled into the grid and discoloured it, cleaning the board further faded and thickened the lines of the grid.  And the board was a little too big for the table by overhaning 4" on the long sides and 8" on the short.I started to make my own "mini's" by cutting up and then painting various sized wooden dowels to work with my scale.In retrospect, It would have been better to plot out and mark only the vertices of the intersecting lines for the grid.  And then lay a piece of plexiglass overtop the board to use the "erasable" markers on.Unfortunately, the gaming table has been seldom used as it is in the library cum junk collection room.  Most of my gaming doesn't occur at home so it's not a big problem. And I currently use flip mats since their easily portable and small. Eventually I'll get the room cleaned up and with a second board can implement my idea of using the plexiglass overlay.  And trim the board down to the tables size.I recommend using using a small scale grid to allow freedom scaling up or down by combing squares as desired.  My personal preference is one square is one meter, thus a 10x10 (in feet) area is represented by 9 squares.  10 feet and 3 meters are almost the exact same size, with the metric area/length being slightly smaller by only a few inches.  I prefer to use meter over yards when trying to convert a graphed dungeon to table top because the yards measurement is significantly smaller to convert to 10 feet (I prefer the older 10' per square scale, not the 5' per square).To follow Lanefan's advice, I'd build the table with a higher than normal top and run a shelf under the edges for storage/drink capacity.  This will avoid having to support a thinner white board surface in the middle, eliminateing potential warpage down the line.  Better yet, instead of the shelf, make it like a coffe table with a full shelf under the bottom, but the top will still need to be higher than normal, and the lower shelf higher than that of a coffe table for seating purposes.  And place the white board atop that.Some further advice about the 4x8 size, its a pain in the posterior portions to reach the middle of the surface depending on ones position at the table (and height if standing is necessary, especially when using the double surfaces).</blockquote>

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