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<blockquote data-quote="kengar" data-source="post: 265206" data-attributes="member: 3230">Thanks for the kind words. <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile&nbsp; &nbsp; :)"&nbsp; data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" />If you want to do something like this, it's fairly easy. You need a foam cutter (hot wire thing you can buy at a craft store for less than $10). Just cut the foam to size (I did it to 1&quot;=5' scale, so that the walls fit the tactical mat's squares &amp; are 2&quot; -or 10'- high) making several of the common lengths of wall; 10' (2&quot;), 20' (4&quot;), etc.The filler gets troweled on pretty thick. Trace the brick/stone pattern with a BBQ skewer (or whatever) before it sets up too much. Let it dry overnight before painting, though (it says an hour on the can, but you don't want it to &quot;melt&quot; when you get it wet with paint).The painting was in 3 stages: thinned gray/brown all into cracks, etc. (wash) with a 2&quot; wide housepainting brush, then the orange/red as sort of a &quot;wet drybrush&quot;, then the light beige/tan as a true drybrushing. Except for the last coat, I used just satin finish Duron interior latex from the hardware store. If the filler softens up &amp; &quot;blurs&quot; when you paint it, just re-trace the lines with the skewer (I had to do this a few times).FYI, anyway, in case you wanted to attempt it <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile&nbsp; &nbsp; :)"&nbsp; data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" /></blockquote>

[QUOTE="kengar, post: 265206, member: 3230"] Thanks for the kind words. :) If you want to do something like this, it's fairly easy. You need a foam cutter (hot wire thing you can buy at a craft store for less than $10). Just cut the foam to size (I did it to 1"=5' scale, so that the walls fit the tactical mat's squares & are 2" -or 10'- high) making several of the common lengths of wall; 10' (2"), 20' (4"), etc. The filler gets troweled on pretty thick. Trace the brick/stone pattern with a BBQ skewer (or whatever) before it sets up too much. Let it dry overnight before painting, though (it says an hour on the can, but you don't want it to "melt" when you get it wet with paint). The painting was in 3 stages: thinned gray/brown all into cracks, etc. (wash) with a 2" wide housepainting brush, then the orange/red as sort of a "wet drybrush", then the light beige/tan as a true drybrushing. Except for the last coat, I used just satin finish Duron interior latex from the hardware store. If the filler softens up & "blurs" when you paint it, just re-trace the lines with the skewer (I had to do this a few times). FYI, anyway, in case you wanted to attempt it :) [/QUOTE]

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