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<blockquote data-quote="scourger" data-source="post: 1966360" data-attributes="member: 12328">keep it simpleHere's some Top 10 advice from a 25-year gamer &amp; DM.&nbsp; I consider these tips to be the refinement of my gamecraft.1)&nbsp; Get a subscription to Dungeon or buy it at your FLGS.&nbsp; It is, to me, consistently the best value in my RPG purchases.&nbsp; You're a little late to pick up the 11-part Shackled City Adventure Path (although I think all the back issues are available at paizo.com), but the three most recent issues have a great 3-part adventure.&nbsp; Each monthly issue has 3 adventures: low, mid &amp; high level.&nbsp; I have run several campaigns from its pages.&nbsp; 2)&nbsp; Stick to the core books of whatever game you're running.&nbsp; Less is more.&nbsp; You &amp; your players don't need all those other options.&nbsp; I believe I can run any kind of fantasy game I want with the PHB, DMG &amp; MM.&nbsp; Addding 1 sourcebook is more than enough.3)&nbsp; Use counters for the bad guys.&nbsp; The Counter Collection Digital CD is great.&nbsp; You can also scan &amp; resize pictures from any book.&nbsp; Word is a great tool for printing them on cardstock in quadruplicate with lined borders so they can be scored, cut, folded &amp; taped to form a 3D counter.&nbsp; Let your players crush them if they defeat the foes.&nbsp; (I love metal &amp; plastic miniatures, but they are expensive to buy &amp; store.&nbsp; I have way too many already, but you may be able to avoid it.&nbsp; Painting can be really fun &amp; relaxing, so enjoy it when you are playing by painting your character.)4)&nbsp; Use miniatures for the good guys.&nbsp; Encourage (or require) your players to have a mini for their character(s).&nbsp; It is good roleplay, and it will help you distinguish the sides in combat if you use counters for the bad guys.5)&nbsp; Use 1&quot; grid lined easel pads for big, tactical maps.&nbsp; You can get them at an office supply store.&nbsp; Or if you have the hardware, scan those maps and poster print them on several sheets of regular paper that you can use as tiles as they explore or fight.&nbsp; Otherwise, go to your local newspaper and ask if you can have an end roll--the left over paper at the end of a print run.&nbsp; My paper sells them out of the back loading dock for $1 a roll.&nbsp; They don't want them because it breaks the printing presses to let the paper run out.&nbsp; You can use this paper for big maps, and your players won't be counting squares or playing checkers for tactical movement.&nbsp; With any of these options, you can use regular markers, pencils or crayons to make the maps.&nbsp; Many times, I let the players draw them from my descriptions (likely from the module).&nbsp; 6)&nbsp; Use a quarter under the minis for the PC's light sources.&nbsp; You can buy colored plastic disks, but a quarter works, too (and is probably cheaper).7)&nbsp; Get intiative cards from the Game Mechanics.&nbsp; They are free and are a great tool for running combat.&nbsp; You can use index cards instead, but I think it would be more work.&nbsp; They even sell cards with all the monsters pre-printed (an investment I may make soon).&nbsp; 8)&nbsp; Don't buy sourcebooks.&nbsp; Buy adventures.&nbsp; If you like a campaign setting, buy it only if it has adventures or modules published--preferably an entire campaign's worth.&nbsp; A good epic module will have both elements, like Mesopotamia.&nbsp; 9)&nbsp; Don't be afraid to get rid of something that isn't working.&nbsp; I just parted with all my AD&amp;D books.&nbsp; It was really tough, but I wasn't using it and likely would never use it again (plus, I need room for a nursery).&nbsp; 10)&nbsp; Keep the focus on play, not work, in your game.&nbsp; It is all for fun, after all.&nbsp; For example, I have given up on keeping campaign logs or journals.&nbsp; It's just too much work.&nbsp; I give experience after every session and just wait for the next session.&nbsp; It sounds like you have this in-hand with the plan to get rid of a problem player (but you should be as forgiving or at least as direct as you can with him).&nbsp; Enjoy.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="scourger, post: 1966360, member: 12328"] [b]keep it simple[/b] Here's some Top 10 advice from a 25-year gamer & DM. I consider these tips to be the refinement of my gamecraft. 1) Get a subscription to Dungeon or buy it at your FLGS. It is, to me, consistently the best value in my RPG purchases. You're a little late to pick up the 11-part Shackled City Adventure Path (although I think all the back issues are available at paizo.com), but the three most recent issues have a great 3-part adventure. Each monthly issue has 3 adventures: low, mid & high level. I have run several campaigns from its pages. 2) Stick to the core books of whatever game you're running. Less is more. You & your players don't need all those other options. I believe I can run any kind of fantasy game I want with the PHB, DMG & MM. Addding 1 sourcebook is more than enough. 3) Use counters for the bad guys. The Counter Collection Digital CD is great. You can also scan & resize pictures from any book. Word is a great tool for printing them on cardstock in quadruplicate with lined borders so they can be scored, cut, folded & taped to form a 3D counter. Let your players crush them if they defeat the foes. (I love metal & plastic miniatures, but they are expensive to buy & store. I have way too many already, but you may be able to avoid it. Painting can be really fun & relaxing, so enjoy it when you are playing by painting your character.) 4) Use miniatures for the good guys. Encourage (or require) your players to have a mini for their character(s). It is good roleplay, and it will help you distinguish the sides in combat if you use counters for the bad guys. 5) Use 1" grid lined easel pads for big, tactical maps. You can get them at an office supply store. Or if you have the hardware, scan those maps and poster print them on several sheets of regular paper that you can use as tiles as they explore or fight. Otherwise, go to your local newspaper and ask if you can have an end roll--the left over paper at the end of a print run. My paper sells them out of the back loading dock for $1 a roll. They don't want them because it breaks the printing presses to let the paper run out. You can use this paper for big maps, and your players won't be counting squares or playing checkers for tactical movement. With any of these options, you can use regular markers, pencils or crayons to make the maps. Many times, I let the players draw them from my descriptions (likely from the module). 6) Use a quarter under the minis for the PC's light sources. You can buy colored plastic disks, but a quarter works, too (and is probably cheaper). 7) Get intiative cards from the Game Mechanics. They are free and are a great tool for running combat. You can use index cards instead, but I think it would be more work. They even sell cards with all the monsters pre-printed (an investment I may make soon). 8) Don't buy sourcebooks. Buy adventures. If you like a campaign setting, buy it only if it has adventures or modules published--preferably an entire campaign's worth. A good epic module will have both elements, like Mesopotamia. 9) Don't be afraid to get rid of something that isn't working. I just parted with all my AD&D books. It was really tough, but I wasn't using it and likely would never use it again (plus, I need room for a nursery). 10) Keep the focus on play, not work, in your game. It is all for fun, after all. For example, I have given up on keeping campaign logs or journals. It's just too much work. I give experience after every session and just wait for the next session. It sounds like you have this in-hand with the plan to get rid of a problem player (but you should be as forgiving or at least as direct as you can with him). Enjoy. [/QUOTE]

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