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<blockquote data-quote="Marc_C" data-source="post: 8158561" data-attributes="member: 7025897">I've always used cardboard cutout or miniatures with D&amp;D since B/X 1981. On page B61 Moldvay actually gives a few guidelines:&quot;PLAYING SURFACE: Combats are easy to keep track of when large sheets of graph paper, covered with plexiglass or transparent adhesive plastic (contact paper), are used to put the figures on. The best sheets for this use have 1&quot; squares, and the scale of 1&quot; = 5' should be used when moving the figures. With water-based markers or grease pencils, an entire room or battle can be drawn in just a few seconds. When the battle is over, the board may be wiped off, leaving it ready for the next combat. Dominoes or plastic building blocks can also be used to outline walls and corridors. When using figures, the DM should make sure that a solid table top is used, so the figures won't fall over when the table is bumped.&quot;&quot;MINIATURE FIGURES: D&amp;D adventures are more interesting to play when figures are used. Metal miniatures (about 15 to 25 millimeters high) are often used, for they can be easily painted to look like real dungeon adventurers. Many excellent figures are designed specially for fantasy role playing games. These are available from TSR or from local hobby stores. If metal miniatures cost more than the players want to spend, many companies make inexpensive packs of plastic figures. These are not specifically made for fantasy role playing, but can easily be adapted for it. Inexpensive plastic monsters of many sizes are also available in local stores.&quot;Since only one human size miniature (with the base) fits in a 1&quot; square, we assumed that is the maximum number of persons or creatures that could occupy it. Kobolds and halflings were smaller, so 2 models per square. Larger creatures occupied 2 (horse), 4 (giant) or 6&nbsp; (dragon) squares.We didn't allow moving through enemy occupied spaces but allowed movement through friendly spaces, as long as there was enough movement to move pass them.Edit: reach was based on weapon size. Regular weapons (including 2H swords) attacked only the adjacent squares. Pole Arms could attack up to 10' (2 squares).</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Marc_C, post: 8158561, member: 7025897"] I've always used cardboard cutout or miniatures with D&D since B/X 1981. On page B61 Moldvay actually gives a few guidelines: [I]"PLAYING SURFACE: Combats are easy to keep track of when large sheets of graph paper, covered with plexiglass or transparent adhesive plastic (contact paper), are used to put the figures on. The best sheets for this use have 1" squares, [B]and the scale of 1" = 5'[/B] should be used when moving the figures. With water-based markers or grease pencils, an entire room or battle can be drawn in just a few seconds. When the battle is over, the board may be wiped off, leaving it ready for the next combat. Dominoes or plastic building blocks can also be used to outline walls and corridors. When using figures, the DM should make sure that a solid table top is used, so the figures won't fall over when the table is bumped." "MINIATURE FIGURES: [B]D&D adventures are more interesting to play when figures are used.[/B] Metal miniatures (about 15 to 25 millimeters high) are often used, for they can be easily painted to look like real dungeon adventurers. Many excellent figures are designed specially for fantasy role playing games. These are available from TSR or from local hobby stores. If metal miniatures cost more than the players want to spend, many companies make inexpensive packs of plastic figures. These are not specifically made for fantasy role playing, but can easily be adapted for it. Inexpensive plastic monsters of many sizes are also available in local stores."[/I] Since only one human size miniature (with the base) fits in a 1" square, we assumed that is the maximum number of persons or creatures that could occupy it. Kobolds and halflings were smaller, so 2 models per square. Larger creatures occupied 2 (horse), 4 (giant) or 6 (dragon) squares. We didn't allow moving through enemy occupied spaces but allowed movement through friendly spaces, as long as there was enough movement to move pass them. Edit: reach was based on weapon size. Regular weapons (including 2H swords) attacked only the adjacent squares. Pole Arms could attack up to 10' (2 squares). [/QUOTE]

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