Miniature gluing

SamuraiY

First Post
I have quite a few minis that I would really like to paint, but, unfortunately, they are in pieces. I cannot seem to glue the together either. Whenever I try, they just fall apart again. I have tried crazy glue, model glue, even elmers, but they keep falling apart again. They are mosty from the old 2E silver medallion (or whatever it was) series. Anyone know whats up with this?
 

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Hmm. Well, a couple of things:

If they are metal minis, neither Elmers or model (plastic model) glue will work to hold them together.

Crazy Glue (cyanoacrylic) should work (although I don't recomend it. I find cyanoacyrlic glues weaken over time). Make sure that you are not trying to glue over primer or paint, the area to be glued has to be clean metal (lead, ralidium, pewter, etc).

For glue alternatives, try a hobby shop (that has arts & crafts, Radio Controlled cars, etc). They usually have a selection of different glue types there. I personally use a two part epoxy (resin & hardener) to glue figs together. It's a little slower drying than crazy glue (so you can make a correction or two before it sets) and it's usually dry within 5 minutes.

I use Z-poxy:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCX55&P=7

This size bottles last me about a year or more. Just mix up a little in the plastic blister that the fig comes in for what you need to glue.

Enjoy!
 

I'm not familiar with those particular models, but I can offer some general advice.

1) Clean the mini parts first with some soapy water, rinse and pat dry. Let them dry completely before trying to glue. Sometimes oils from your hands, powders, etc. can get on the surface and muck with the glue.

2) Pinning. There are several good online articles about minis that explain the process of pinning the parts. Essentially, you drill a small hole with a "pin vise" where the other part will be attached, glue in a short length of stiff wire (I often use a piece of a paper clip or staple :D ), drill a matching hole on the part, trim the wire so that it fits in the 2nd hole, put a drop of glue on the end of the wire and Voila! It is much stronger than just glue.

3) Super glue works best, IME. 2-part epoxy is nice, but I find it fils in the gap too much for a tight fit. I *do* use the 2-part epoxy extensively for hiding seams between pieces. Don't put too much glue on and let it dry a second or two before pressing the pieces together. Make sure one glueing is dry before glueing the next piece.


some links:
http://www.wizards.com/dnd/article.asp?x=dnd/pp/pp20010719a

http://www.paintingclinic.com/clinic/pinning.htm

Hope this helps! :)
 

Clean and dry. Do a test fit. Check if anything is blocking a good fit. Then with superglue glue it together. USE LIGHTLY. Too much makes for stuck fingers and many minutes of drying. Also, if the parts are large (thus heavy) they may require help holding together. I have often held parts together to initially get held then CAREFULLY based it on foam or something else to hold it in place overnight. Sometimes (especially heavier ones) I will then put a thin layer of putty over the joint glued mixed with more glue to lock it in. Worse case senerio- pin the parts. How safe it was remains to be decided by CAREFULLY drill out lined up holes with smallest drill bit you can find. Then with wire cutters trim down a paperclip to fit with the holes in the two parts and glue/putty to fit.
 

ZAP glue and ZAP kicker can be your friend. ZAP is a brand of super glue and the kicker is an instant dry spray. You glue the spot, put the pieces together and spray with kicker and you have an insant bond.

Pinning is best used with larger parts, but will greatly increase the amount of abuse any glued limb can take. It is a pain and will cost you some cash to buy the tools and bits. I recommend ZAP glue, available at most of your local game and hardware shops.
 

For old metal minis the metal has to be clean. Free of paint, old glue and oxidation. Give them an acid bath in vinegar to get all the crap off then go at glueing them and see if it will hold then.
 

My vote is for JB quick weld. This stuff is strong. it sets in 5 minutes and you will not get the pieces apart. I even had a mini drop that had been JB welded and it broke in the metal and not the glue. also the glue fills in all other places where super glue will not.

you can get this at any wall mart or an auto parts store. This claims it can hold carborators together so mini's are no problem!!
 
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I use Zap-A-Gap glue that works wonders. A tiny dab will hold even the heaviest models together (I used it to put a Hill Giant model together as well as a 10 part Dragon - both are still in one piece even after rough treatment!).

I also use Games Workshops' 'Green Stuff" modelling clay. It comes in a strip of blue & yellow putty that you mix together by hand until it is green. Takes about 2 hours to dry completely but is very good in filling gaps and holding a model on its base.
 

Holy Bovine said:
I use Zap-A-Gap glue that works wonders. A tiny dab will hold even the heaviest models together (I used it to put a Hill Giant model together as well as a 10 part Dragon - both are still in one piece even after rough treatment!).

I also use Games Workshops' 'Green Stuff" modelling clay. It comes in a strip of blue & yellow putty that you mix together by hand until it is green. Takes about 2 hours to dry completely but is very good in filling gaps and holding a model on its base.

Yup - I use these two options exclusively. Zap a Gap works better than other super glue brands that I've tried, and even holds really massive models together well - I have a big dragon, T'char (the one pictured isn't mine - I'm not that good a painter) that is almost nine inches of metal. When I put him together, I didn't know how to do stuff like pin the wings, so I just used Zap-a-gap, and it's held up relaly well.

Green stuff is fabulous. :-) I even made a beholder model out of it from scratch that really freaked out my players last session. (one of my players sells me all my minis, so If I want to really surprise the group...)
 


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