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Miniature Misadventures
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<blockquote data-quote="Voobaha" data-source="post: 384810" data-attributes="member: 2741"><p><strong>priming and finishing techniques</strong></p><p></p><p>Just to qualify what others have advised:</p><p></p><p>Stripping a mini:</p><p>Pine sol or other Pine Cleaners works well to strip a mini. Make sure to cover up the container and/or keep the area venilated as pine sol has nasty fumes. I stripped a bunch of old enamel-painted minis from the 70s that I'd painted as a kid and wanted to repaint. After rubbing with a toothbrush, the paint came right off.</p><p></p><p>Brake Fluid also works, but you have to be extra careful about the fumes and getting it on your hands. It's poisonous, so wash it right off. You shouldn't let your pets and/or offspring near it, but then you probably already know that <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f609.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" data-smilie="2"data-shortname=";)" /> .</p><p></p><p>Personally I like the Pine Sol better.</p><p></p><p>Here's some techniques that I like to use when adding primer coats and finishing coats:</p><p></p><p>Get a cardboard box and lay it on it's side. Affix the mini by it's base to a cork/old paint pot/piece of balsa wood with some wall tac. You can use this temporary base to hold and rotate the mini without touching it and messing up the spray coat with your fingers. Don't use styrofoam because the propellants in the paint can melt it. The propellants have nasty fumes as well, so it's best to do this outside.</p><p></p><p>Cut/tear back the top so you can spray into the box from the front and top. Hold the can a couple of feet from the mini and give it a short burst, aiming at a point just past the mini. Primer coat bursts can be longer than finishing coats, which should be applied with a lighter, more gradual puffs of the can to "dust" the coat on. Don't spray the mini like you're spraying graffitti on a wall though, or the coat will clump up and cake the mini with goop, obscuring detail and requiring your to break out to pine sol.</p><p></p><p>Once you've sprayed the mini from the side and top, just give it's temporary base a quarter turn and spray some more. Incidentally, if you have a big box, you can prime and finish whole squads of miniatures lined up in a row.</p><p></p><p>Once you've finished your minis, you might want to elmer's glue or blue tac them to an extra base, if the mini didn't come with a plastic base in the package (Games Workshop do, Reaper mostly don't). I use pennies, fender washers and Games Workshop $6.00 bags of bases. You can require players to move the mini by it's base, and save your paint job lots of wear and tear.</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Voobaha, post: 384810, member: 2741"] [b]priming and finishing techniques[/b] Just to qualify what others have advised: Stripping a mini: Pine sol or other Pine Cleaners works well to strip a mini. Make sure to cover up the container and/or keep the area venilated as pine sol has nasty fumes. I stripped a bunch of old enamel-painted minis from the 70s that I'd painted as a kid and wanted to repaint. After rubbing with a toothbrush, the paint came right off. Brake Fluid also works, but you have to be extra careful about the fumes and getting it on your hands. It's poisonous, so wash it right off. You shouldn't let your pets and/or offspring near it, but then you probably already know that ;) . Personally I like the Pine Sol better. Here's some techniques that I like to use when adding primer coats and finishing coats: Get a cardboard box and lay it on it's side. Affix the mini by it's base to a cork/old paint pot/piece of balsa wood with some wall tac. You can use this temporary base to hold and rotate the mini without touching it and messing up the spray coat with your fingers. Don't use styrofoam because the propellants in the paint can melt it. The propellants have nasty fumes as well, so it's best to do this outside. Cut/tear back the top so you can spray into the box from the front and top. Hold the can a couple of feet from the mini and give it a short burst, aiming at a point just past the mini. Primer coat bursts can be longer than finishing coats, which should be applied with a lighter, more gradual puffs of the can to "dust" the coat on. Don't spray the mini like you're spraying graffitti on a wall though, or the coat will clump up and cake the mini with goop, obscuring detail and requiring your to break out to pine sol. Once you've sprayed the mini from the side and top, just give it's temporary base a quarter turn and spray some more. Incidentally, if you have a big box, you can prime and finish whole squads of miniatures lined up in a row. Once you've finished your minis, you might want to elmer's glue or blue tac them to an extra base, if the mini didn't come with a plastic base in the package (Games Workshop do, Reaper mostly don't). I use pennies, fender washers and Games Workshop $6.00 bags of bases. You can require players to move the mini by it's base, and save your paint job lots of wear and tear. Hope this helps. [/QUOTE]
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