Menu
News
All News
Dungeons & Dragons
Level Up: Advanced 5th Edition
Pathfinder
Starfinder
Warhammer
2d20 System
Year Zero Engine
Industry News
Reviews
Dragon Reflections
White Dwarf Reflections
Columns
Weekly Digests
Weekly News Digest
Freebies, Sales & Bundles
RPG Print News
RPG Crowdfunding News
Game Content
ENterplanetary DimENsions
Mythological Figures
Opinion
Worlds of Design
Peregrine's Nest
RPG Evolution
Other Columns
From the Freelancing Frontline
Monster ENcyclopedia
WotC/TSR Alumni Look Back
4 Hours w/RSD (Ryan Dancey)
The Road to 3E (Jonathan Tweet)
Greenwood's Realms (Ed Greenwood)
Drawmij's TSR (Jim Ward)
Community
Forums & Topics
Forum List
Latest Posts
Forum list
*Dungeons & Dragons
Level Up: Advanced 5th Edition
D&D Older Editions
*TTRPGs General
*Pathfinder & Starfinder
EN Publishing
*Geek Talk & Media
Search forums
Chat/Discord
Resources
Wiki
Pages
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Downloads
Latest reviews
Search resources
EN Publishing
Store
EN5ider
Adventures in ZEITGEIST
Awfully Cheerful Engine
What's OLD is NEW
Judge Dredd & The Worlds Of 2000AD
War of the Burning Sky
Level Up: Advanced 5E
Events & Releases
Upcoming Events
Private Events
Featured Events
Socials!
EN Publishing
Twitter
BlueSky
Facebook
Instagram
EN World
BlueSky
YouTube
Facebook
Twitter
Twitch
Podcast
Features
Top 5 RPGs Compiled Charts 2004-Present
Adventure Game Industry Market Research Summary (RPGs) V1.0
Ryan Dancey: Acquiring TSR
Q&A With Gary Gygax
D&D Rules FAQs
TSR, WotC, & Paizo: A Comparative History
D&D Pronunciation Guide
Million Dollar TTRPG Kickstarters
Tabletop RPG Podcast Hall of Fame
Eric Noah's Unofficial D&D 3rd Edition News
D&D in the Mainstream
D&D & RPG History
About Morrus
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
Forums & Topics
Forum List
Latest Posts
Forum list
*Dungeons & Dragons
Level Up: Advanced 5th Edition
D&D Older Editions
*TTRPGs General
*Pathfinder & Starfinder
EN Publishing
*Geek Talk & Media
Search forums
Chat/Discord
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Community
General Tabletop Discussion
*Geek Talk & Media
Painting minis; getting started
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Mad_Jack" data-source="post: 8764498" data-attributes="member: 6750306"><p>Yeah, after a certain point, there's just no way you can paint little details on stuff so that human eyes can still see it.</p><p>The smaller you get, the harder it becomes to paint individual details (or even the suggestion of details like rust, battle damage or mud) so they'll still show up to the human eye.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p> Yeah, minis are small enough that they don't really cast their own shadows or show their own highlights very well, so if you want them to be visible you have to paint them on by hand.</p><p>If you look at a digital illustration blown up enough to see the individual pixels, you'll notice that something "green" is actually drawn with about seven or eight colors going all the way from black in the shadows to yellow or white on the highlights. It's the contrast between those various colors that makes the human eye read them as being three-dimensional and blended together as various shades of green.</p><p>For minis, painting something "green" means you end up having a base color, a shadow color and a highlight color - three separate shades of green. Or more. Or other colors, depending on how much time you want to invest in the figure - if you're assembly-lining twenty orcs for your tabletop game most folks are just going to dip them in a thinned-out wash of black or brown, which will naturally pool up in the recesses of the figure as it dries, adding in the shadows...</p><p></p><p>On MGibster's giant, for the flesh you can see he's gone from a reddish dark tan in the shadows up to a yellowish white on the forehead highlights. <a href="https://imgur.com/EfggFkl" target="_blank">This orc I painted</a> with green skin (linked for nudity) has a few more muscles to it, so you can see pretty clearly that although the base color of the flesh was forest green, the shadows go all the way to black in some spots and the highest highlights are a light mint green. She's got, hrm, I think three layers of highlights and shadows on her.</p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/NfItuUP.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " data-size="" style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mad_Jack, post: 8764498, member: 6750306"] Yeah, after a certain point, there's just no way you can paint little details on stuff so that human eyes can still see it. The smaller you get, the harder it becomes to paint individual details (or even the suggestion of details like rust, battle damage or mud) so they'll still show up to the human eye. Yeah, minis are small enough that they don't really cast their own shadows or show their own highlights very well, so if you want them to be visible you have to paint them on by hand. If you look at a digital illustration blown up enough to see the individual pixels, you'll notice that something "green" is actually drawn with about seven or eight colors going all the way from black in the shadows to yellow or white on the highlights. It's the contrast between those various colors that makes the human eye read them as being three-dimensional and blended together as various shades of green. For minis, painting something "green" means you end up having a base color, a shadow color and a highlight color - three separate shades of green. Or more. Or other colors, depending on how much time you want to invest in the figure - if you're assembly-lining twenty orcs for your tabletop game most folks are just going to dip them in a thinned-out wash of black or brown, which will naturally pool up in the recesses of the figure as it dries, adding in the shadows... On MGibster's giant, for the flesh you can see he's gone from a reddish dark tan in the shadows up to a yellowish white on the forehead highlights. [URL='https://imgur.com/EfggFkl']This orc I painted[/URL] with green skin (linked for nudity) has a few more muscles to it, so you can see pretty clearly that although the base color of the flesh was forest green, the shadows go all the way to black in some spots and the highest highlights are a light mint green. She's got, hrm, I think three layers of highlights and shadows on her. [IMG]https://i.imgur.com/NfItuUP.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Community
General Tabletop Discussion
*Geek Talk & Media
Painting minis; getting started
Top