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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Staffan" data-source="post: 9821968" data-attributes="member: 907">Here's how I understand it: "Bones" is a fairly wide category that contains at least five types of plastic:<ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Original white Bones. These are fairly "rubbery" and often have not-so-great detail. These aren't made anymore, but there are large numbers in circulation and in stock.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Revised Bones. They basically use the same material as OG Bones, but are a darker grey and have some additives that make them harder but less flexible. Basically a middle ground between OG Bones and Bones Black.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Bones Black. A harder and less flexible version of Bones. This was introduced during the Bones 4 KS, and in 5 and 6 most of the minis were made from this material. However, it's not suited for larger minis, so those were instead made with revised Bones.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">SiOCast. This is a method/material that lets them cast plastic minis in-house in smaller series than Bones/Bones Black (Bones/Bones Black requires steel molds that are hideously expensive to make, but once made each mini can be made really cheaply, which is why they're perfect for Kickstarters). These are sold as Bones USA in the Dungeon Dwellers and Reaper Legends lines.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">3D-printed resin. Also sold as Bones USA.</li> </ol>1 and 2 are definitely susceptible to tackiness when primed with rattlecans, because they're basically variants on the same material. I'm not sure if 3 is as well – I think it is but I'm not sure. 4 and 5 should not be.Also, the issue with rattlecans seemingly have more to do with the propellant than the actual paint. I have seen plenty of people say that they primed a number of minis with rattlecans and had no issues, and then primed some others with the same can and had them come out tacky. It can also take a while for the tackiness to set in, so an immediate check isn't particularly helpful.</blockquote>

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