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<blockquote data-quote="Silverblade The Ench" data-source="post: 5215938" data-attributes="member: 19083"><p>Thanks folks! <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>various points:</p><p></p><p>dice roller needs a large round opening, in case folk want to use actual d100s or other odd larger dice like d30s, or as I have a huge d12 with crit hit locations <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f609.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" data-smilie="2"data-shortname=";)" /></p><p><img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/15/Zocchihedron2.jpg/110px-Zocchihedron2.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " data-size="" style="" /></p><p></p><p>the dice roller is for fun! <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f609.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" data-smilie="2"data-shortname=";)" /></p><p></p><p>Dice roller opening is best not be on the top, IMHO, as the "top" is the actual physical case that holds it all together, putting a hole that big in it, is a bad idea strength wise...though it shouldn't matter much with the bracing the "ramps" make, I guess?</p><p>however, it does leave an opening to the outside...what if folk had left dice inside the dice roller and they fall out?</p><p></p><p>dice tower castles as you note, work on exact same principle inside <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" /></p><p>however I do not want to make stuff sticking out of this: I want it all neat, easy to carry and smooth externally.</p><p></p><p>yes dice towers make noise :/ this is why I went with a roller instead originally</p><p>however, yes you could put rubber, cork or whtever on top of the rmaps, or make the ramps of softer plastic <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>The dice roller "tray" may need lifted higher, to stop it being so low books etc on table get in way</p><p>that is a good point, hm! since it hinges, and the area at back of it is also flat, dice would fall onto the flat area at back anyway, but your point is valid</p><p>i like the flip out tray as it's big enough to hold lots of dice if say you use 12d6 for some game systems</p><p>if the tray was much narrower and slid out through the side of the "wing/fly half" it would be much smaller and prone to falling out completely unless I put in a "Nub" (see below), where as the swivelling version is broad and cannot come off. hm, interesting idea though with next bit</p><p></p><p>make the drawers pull out through the narrow side</p><p>that has merit. it would let that big front on side stay soild in 1 piece, so you could put things on it.</p><p>need to put small "nubs" to stop drawer pulling out entirely though, you put a small block, above the drawer so back of drawer hits the nub when almost fully pulled out, you can rotate the drawer to pull it out though if need be.</p><p></p><p>the main area I wouldn't want criss crossed with metal, as that would ruin the benefits of transparency.</p><p>instead, having a frame, 4 strips, maybe +one up the centre, would be a good idea <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" /></p><p>and, if make the drawers on right hand side fly leaf come out from the narrow end/side, instead of "front", that would leave a nice big flat area to put a similar arrangement up for whatever you wish tostick on their with magnets, more tables, initiative markers etc.</p><p></p><p>I still have the Wizard's Player Pack!! <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" /> bit worse for wear though, lol. really good idea, got one for pal as a present as well.</p><p></p><p>I've been using magnets on bases of my figures for a long time <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f609.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" data-smilie="2"data-shortname=";)" /></p><p>originally it was the plastic stripping, now I buy tiny magnets as they are very thin, perfect for putting on bases of say the WOTC minis, as they are so damn light they get knocked aorund too easily.</p><p>I have the Dark Platypus magnetic mat, HOWEVER, it has problems, I thought it would be soft very flexible like a Chessex mat, instead, it's thin kind of rigid and very heavy, so IMHO, it's best kept as a permanent mat on a table, or if you don't mind carrying 4inch square x3' long box it's in and 2kg?? weight. (Players should remember, DM's have to carry a lot if they have to come to YOUR house...*cough*)</p><p>but, it is magnetic, gridded, and can use erasable markers on it, so, it is good otherwise <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" /></p><p>i have their wall sections, and an older magnetic based plastic wall system from another company, so having wall sections standing up on the grid is cool</p><p></p><p>thanks for all the input, folks! <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Silverblade The Ench, post: 5215938, member: 19083"] Thanks folks! :) various points: dice roller needs a large round opening, in case folk want to use actual d100s or other odd larger dice like d30s, or as I have a huge d12 with crit hit locations ;) [img]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/15/Zocchihedron2.jpg/110px-Zocchihedron2.jpg[/img] the dice roller is for fun! ;) Dice roller opening is best not be on the top, IMHO, as the "top" is the actual physical case that holds it all together, putting a hole that big in it, is a bad idea strength wise...though it shouldn't matter much with the bracing the "ramps" make, I guess? however, it does leave an opening to the outside...what if folk had left dice inside the dice roller and they fall out? dice tower castles as you note, work on exact same principle inside :) however I do not want to make stuff sticking out of this: I want it all neat, easy to carry and smooth externally. yes dice towers make noise :/ this is why I went with a roller instead originally however, yes you could put rubber, cork or whtever on top of the rmaps, or make the ramps of softer plastic :) The dice roller "tray" may need lifted higher, to stop it being so low books etc on table get in way that is a good point, hm! since it hinges, and the area at back of it is also flat, dice would fall onto the flat area at back anyway, but your point is valid i like the flip out tray as it's big enough to hold lots of dice if say you use 12d6 for some game systems if the tray was much narrower and slid out through the side of the "wing/fly half" it would be much smaller and prone to falling out completely unless I put in a "Nub" (see below), where as the swivelling version is broad and cannot come off. hm, interesting idea though with next bit make the drawers pull out through the narrow side that has merit. it would let that big front on side stay soild in 1 piece, so you could put things on it. need to put small "nubs" to stop drawer pulling out entirely though, you put a small block, above the drawer so back of drawer hits the nub when almost fully pulled out, you can rotate the drawer to pull it out though if need be. the main area I wouldn't want criss crossed with metal, as that would ruin the benefits of transparency. instead, having a frame, 4 strips, maybe +one up the centre, would be a good idea :) and, if make the drawers on right hand side fly leaf come out from the narrow end/side, instead of "front", that would leave a nice big flat area to put a similar arrangement up for whatever you wish tostick on their with magnets, more tables, initiative markers etc. I still have the Wizard's Player Pack!! :) bit worse for wear though, lol. really good idea, got one for pal as a present as well. I've been using magnets on bases of my figures for a long time ;) originally it was the plastic stripping, now I buy tiny magnets as they are very thin, perfect for putting on bases of say the WOTC minis, as they are so damn light they get knocked aorund too easily. I have the Dark Platypus magnetic mat, HOWEVER, it has problems, I thought it would be soft very flexible like a Chessex mat, instead, it's thin kind of rigid and very heavy, so IMHO, it's best kept as a permanent mat on a table, or if you don't mind carrying 4inch square x3' long box it's in and 2kg?? weight. (Players should remember, DM's have to carry a lot if they have to come to YOUR house...*cough*) but, it is magnetic, gridded, and can use erasable markers on it, so, it is good otherwise :) i have their wall sections, and an older magnetic based plastic wall system from another company, so having wall sections standing up on the grid is cool thanks for all the input, folks! :) [/QUOTE]
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