Menu
News
All News
Dungeons & Dragons
Level Up: Advanced 5th Edition
Pathfinder
Starfinder
Warhammer
2d20 System
Year Zero Engine
Industry News
Reviews
Dragon Reflections
White Dwarf Reflections
Columns
Weekly Digests
Weekly News Digest
Freebies, Sales & Bundles
RPG Print News
RPG Crowdfunding News
Game Content
ENterplanetary DimENsions
Mythological Figures
Opinion
Worlds of Design
Peregrine's Nest
RPG Evolution
Other Columns
From the Freelancing Frontline
Monster ENcyclopedia
WotC/TSR Alumni Look Back
4 Hours w/RSD (Ryan Dancey)
The Road to 3E (Jonathan Tweet)
Greenwood's Realms (Ed Greenwood)
Drawmij's TSR (Jim Ward)
Community
Forums & Topics
Forum List
Latest Posts
Forum list
*Dungeons & Dragons
Level Up: Advanced 5th Edition
D&D Older Editions, OSR, & D&D Variants
*TTRPGs General
*Pathfinder & Starfinder
EN Publishing
*Geek Talk & Media
Search forums
Chat/Discord
Resources
Wiki
Pages
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Downloads
Latest reviews
Search resources
EN Publishing
Store
EN5ider
Adventures in ZEITGEIST
Awfully Cheerful Engine
What's OLD is NEW
Judge Dredd & The Worlds Of 2000AD
War of the Burning Sky
Level Up: Advanced 5E
Events & Releases
Upcoming Events
Private Events
Featured Events
Socials!
EN Publishing
Twitter
BlueSky
Facebook
Instagram
EN World
BlueSky
YouTube
Facebook
Twitter
Twitch
Podcast
Features
Top 5 RPGs Compiled Charts 2004-Present
Adventure Game Industry Market Research Summary (RPGs) V1.0
Ryan Dancey: Acquiring TSR
Q&A With Gary Gygax
D&D Rules FAQs
TSR, WotC, & Paizo: A Comparative History
D&D Pronunciation Guide
Million Dollar TTRPG Kickstarters
Tabletop RPG Podcast Hall of Fame
Eric Noah's Unofficial D&D 3rd Edition News
D&D in the Mainstream
D&D & RPG History
About Morrus
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
Forums & Topics
Forum List
Latest Posts
Forum list
*Dungeons & Dragons
Level Up: Advanced 5th Edition
D&D Older Editions, OSR, & D&D Variants
*TTRPGs General
*Pathfinder & Starfinder
EN Publishing
*Geek Talk & Media
Search forums
Chat/Discord
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Upgrade your account to a Community Supporter account and remove most of the site ads.
Community
General Tabletop Discussion
*Geek Talk & Media
Weapon Illustration Sketches
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="orbitalfreak" data-source="post: 1658530" data-attributes="member: 1669"><p>Photoshop. Here's the process that I used for this picture, and one that I think I'll use from now on, since the results are pleasing to me (and others! woot <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" />)</p><p> </p><p>1) Image -> Adjustments -> Levels.... Mess around with the sliders at the bottom to get rid of most of the grid lines. Go in with a white color brush and paint over any lines that remain that I want to erase.</p><p> </p><p>2) Make a bunch of new layers, labeled by part of the weapon. For this piece, I did:</p><p>a) Pommel</p><p>b) Handle</p><p>c) Studs (in the handle)</p><p>d) Crossguard</p><p>e-g) Three gems, each one separate</p><p>h) Sharp edge of the blade (light area)</p><p>i) Body of the blade (dark area)</p><p> </p><p>3) Pick a layer, say "pommel," and a color (i use the Swatches in Photoshop, the continuous palette gives me trouble due to color-blindness), then paint a blob on that layer to cover the piece. This makes a layer with color on a certain area, without touching the background outline of the piece. In the Layers navigation pane, switch Opacity to 50% or so to see the outline behind the paint. Touch up with an eraser tool, using the now-visible lines for a guide (brush style eraser, not the pencil or block). Repeat with each piece you want to do.</p><p> </p><p>Helpful hint: Doing things like the gems, where they overlap the Blade Body, it helps to turn off visibility of layers to make sure colors won't overlap later.</p><p> </p><p>4) After coloring all the layers you want, make sure they are all at 100% opacity, and set their "Blend Style" to "Multiply" in the Layers pane. Then select all the colored layers, and merge them, so you end up with a full colored piece, and the outline as well (2 separate layers).</p><p> </p><p>5) Grab the Dodge tool, set to highlights, set Exposure to around 3%-5%, and pick a brush; I prefer the ones with softer edges, it gives a more continuous and flowing look to the highlights. Pick a direction for the light to come from; I usually use top-left corner or so. Start playing around with the Dodge brush until you get the results you want. I suggest moving the brush in a full, filled-in circle pattern, lowering the radius of the circle each pass, to give a barely-there look at the edges of the highlight and a bright spot at the center of the highlight. Not very complicated, just swish the brush around till you get what looks right.</p><p> </p><p>6) Look for areas that are in shadow. Bottom of the pommel, handle, and crossguard, and some curves here and there. Use the Burn tool, I usually keep it set to highlights, the other settings get too dark for me. Also, again use about 3%-5% exposure. Grab a brush and Burn in the shadowed areas till it looks right; just like the Dodge tool from step 5.</p><p> </p><p>For this piece, I also used the Burn tool to shade in some fingers at the bottom of the handle, going up vertically, and a little bit up top where the palm and thumb would be. I pictured myself holding the weapon, and Burned a little where flesh met wood; this gives what I think looks like an oil-stained appearance collected from use. Inspired by the dark spot on my door where I grab it to close it all the time <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" />.</p><p> </p><p>7) After all the highlighting/shading is done, make sure the colored-and-highlighted layer is set to "Multiply," then do Layer -> Flatten Image, to give a single layer to the piece, and save.</p><p> </p><p>Total time for the Knife was about 2½ hours, counting goofing off and experimenting with different tool settings.</p><p> </p><p>[edit]</p><p>Colors: </p><p>Pommel and Crossguard -- Medium Warm Brown</p><p>Handle -- Light warm brown</p><p>Gems -- some random green, pure blue, pure red.</p><p>Blade back -- 40% grey</p><p>Blade edge -- 20% grey</p><p> </p><p>I use a 19 pixel default brush for most of the work, switching to 9, 5, 3 for the smaller details. And lots and lots of Undo/Redo action.</p><p>[/edit]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="orbitalfreak, post: 1658530, member: 1669"] Photoshop. Here's the process that I used for this picture, and one that I think I'll use from now on, since the results are pleasing to me (and others! woot :)) 1) Image -> Adjustments -> Levels.... Mess around with the sliders at the bottom to get rid of most of the grid lines. Go in with a white color brush and paint over any lines that remain that I want to erase. 2) Make a bunch of new layers, labeled by part of the weapon. For this piece, I did: a) Pommel b) Handle c) Studs (in the handle) d) Crossguard e-g) Three gems, each one separate h) Sharp edge of the blade (light area) i) Body of the blade (dark area) 3) Pick a layer, say "pommel," and a color (i use the Swatches in Photoshop, the continuous palette gives me trouble due to color-blindness), then paint a blob on that layer to cover the piece. This makes a layer with color on a certain area, without touching the background outline of the piece. In the Layers navigation pane, switch Opacity to 50% or so to see the outline behind the paint. Touch up with an eraser tool, using the now-visible lines for a guide (brush style eraser, not the pencil or block). Repeat with each piece you want to do. Helpful hint: Doing things like the gems, where they overlap the Blade Body, it helps to turn off visibility of layers to make sure colors won't overlap later. 4) After coloring all the layers you want, make sure they are all at 100% opacity, and set their "Blend Style" to "Multiply" in the Layers pane. Then select all the colored layers, and merge them, so you end up with a full colored piece, and the outline as well (2 separate layers). 5) Grab the Dodge tool, set to highlights, set Exposure to around 3%-5%, and pick a brush; I prefer the ones with softer edges, it gives a more continuous and flowing look to the highlights. Pick a direction for the light to come from; I usually use top-left corner or so. Start playing around with the Dodge brush until you get the results you want. I suggest moving the brush in a full, filled-in circle pattern, lowering the radius of the circle each pass, to give a barely-there look at the edges of the highlight and a bright spot at the center of the highlight. Not very complicated, just swish the brush around till you get what looks right. 6) Look for areas that are in shadow. Bottom of the pommel, handle, and crossguard, and some curves here and there. Use the Burn tool, I usually keep it set to highlights, the other settings get too dark for me. Also, again use about 3%-5% exposure. Grab a brush and Burn in the shadowed areas till it looks right; just like the Dodge tool from step 5. For this piece, I also used the Burn tool to shade in some fingers at the bottom of the handle, going up vertically, and a little bit up top where the palm and thumb would be. I pictured myself holding the weapon, and Burned a little where flesh met wood; this gives what I think looks like an oil-stained appearance collected from use. Inspired by the dark spot on my door where I grab it to close it all the time :). 7) After all the highlighting/shading is done, make sure the colored-and-highlighted layer is set to "Multiply," then do Layer -> Flatten Image, to give a single layer to the piece, and save. Total time for the Knife was about 2½ hours, counting goofing off and experimenting with different tool settings. [edit] Colors: Pommel and Crossguard -- Medium Warm Brown Handle -- Light warm brown Gems -- some random green, pure blue, pure red. Blade back -- 40% grey Blade edge -- 20% grey I use a 19 pixel default brush for most of the work, switching to 9, 5, 3 for the smaller details. And lots and lots of Undo/Redo action. [/edit] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Community
General Tabletop Discussion
*Geek Talk & Media
Weapon Illustration Sketches
Top