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Unfortunately I only follow them on Facebook. Too bad, because about the only way I am going to be convinced to buy the book is I am going to need to see it. Since no one else anywhere near me is the slightest bit interested in HM I guess I am just going to have to wait for a convention where...

I can definitely agree on the vibe, and the artwork certainly helps. Since I have also been primarily taking RPG's and modifying them to be as precisely what I want them to be for the last 5 years the "do it yourself" approach certainly resonates strongly with me as well. Only problem I am...

You know I bought this pretty much just "because", and since I still love looking at my books with their pre 2E artwork, I can say, after going through the PDF last night and only looking at the artwork, I am glad I bought this just for the copious amount of 1E style artwork in this book. If I...

Yeah, I remember more like having a friend on the inside of WOTC that helped him get the permission, but don't assume it is all OGL, specific creatures may be excluded. The license in the back of the book should say what, if any, are not OGL in ToH 1. That would explain why Monkeygod was able to...

I remember Clark Peterson stating he had direct permission from WOTC to use several IP creatures in Tome of Horrors I.

Its kind of complicated. MOST monster are drawn directly from myth and legend, so cannot be copyrighted. So the monsters WOTC kept out of the SRD are the ones that are actually original creations that they owned outright. Others are/were still owned by the original creators, most of which, if I...

I posted a shorter review on drivethru, but here is an expanded write up I did that I thought I would share here: This is the kind of product I love, tables that help me add elements to my games I would never think of on my own. Plus the author chose a nice selection of "open" art that almost...

Pretty sure that is a yes. I seem to remember that the Kickstarter was literally just that, to help cover costs for getting it into print.

Even GURPS combat is pretty abstract. Like how do you determine who goes when within that second? Basic Speed. How do you break ties? GM decision or random die roll. Plus you can still only take one action within that second, aside from specific "Free Actions", none of which is terribly...

I have to say I really like this. Even where changes were made I thought it was for the better, and since I own the original versions, I can always use those, these new versions, or a combination. My players will never know whats hitting them until its too late. Well done, glad I bought this...

Yep. "By 2300, humanity has encountered five other sentient races, from the hostile and murderous Kaefers to the bizarre and unfathomable Pentapods. Of these races, two had starfaring capability at time of contact: the Pentapods and the mysterious Kaefers, while the Ebers lost the technology...

Couple of more ideas. Do you own a "black light"? If so see if it fluoresces under it. If it does, and feels "oily", AND if the glass does NOT cut/etch it, ummm... stay away from it. At this point you may have a radioactive zircon. Not super radioactive, because if it is Zircon, it is this...

If you did actually scratch it with that knife I am currently leaning towards Celestine. It is only a 3.5 hardness, so doing those hardness tests, confirming there is actual etching occurring, or not, can totally change the possibilities. If you can get HCL that will help eliminate the Calcium...

Another possible clue you can give me, do you know the conditions of the mine in which it was found? Like was there a good amount of water present? Was the mine described as being in solid rock? That kind of info.

If you can get your hands on HCL (be very careful with it if you can, serious chemical burns will result!) (aka Hydro Chloric Acid) put a drop or two on flat(ish) areas of the stone and let me know if it bubbles.

Also do you possibly have a piece of good broken glass? Sharp? If so see if it will scratch it. Also, if you truly did scratch it, not just draw a thin line, with that knife, I already know it isn't beryl. Also see if you can find a copper, COPPER, penny, and a true IRON nail, and try...

A lot of that looks like it was just "poured", but there seem to be some areas that look squared off or blocky, those may actually be true "structure", so if you could get close ups they may give me solid clues.

Plus if that is Beryl the color is wrong for Emerald, it would be in the sea green Aquamarine color range. Which is actually more desired by older collectors, because that used to be the desired color for Aquamarine. Sky blue colors have only been more popular since the 60's. Just like real...

If it had a definite crystalline it would be much easier to say. Since you say it is very heavy for its size and is scratched by steel it is definitely not Topaz or harder. Based on the picture I seriously doubt it is Beryl (Emerald), but a couple of small areas make it possible. I have also...

I have no doubt, since I enjoyed what you ran before. If they have another Black Friday (or was it Cyber Monday?) sale like they did last year it might be a low enough price for me to check it out again. Just right now I can go only by my experiences with Basic and what I have read being...