Need Input: Gaming Table

[The Little Raven]

I'm working with my brother-in-law, who is a contractor, on designing a gaming table for my group. I've looked around on the net and found a couple of "Ultimate Gaming Tables" to give me some ideas, but I thought it would be best to get some input from the myriad gamers found here. I plan on posting the final plans for it on this site after we finalize it's features and begin prototyping.

The Ultimate Gaming Table - Here's one from a few years back, which is my primary source of inspiration.

Agyris - Fantasy RPG Campaign Setting - Free and Universal Gaming - Here's another one with additional features that seem cool.

Drawing on the two of those and asking a few of my players what they thought it should have, I've come up with a list of basic features I want to put into it.

- Basic dimensions of 8' long by 4' wide.
- Highly polished galvanized steel plate with a painted on 1-inch grid, topped with a .06" thick plexiglass sheet to cover grid to allow easy writing/drawing. (Galvanized steel specifically so we can use our Alea Tools markers without problems.)
- A tabletop "lip" to prevent dice and things from rolling off the table, as well as to provide a place for recessed lighting to help illuminate the grid.
- Player stations with a primary slide-out drawer/shelf to hold character sheets, with recessed lighting to help reading.
- A secondary slide-out drawer with a cup holder and a dice holder/separator.
- Storage cabinets to hold books and other miscellaneous items.
- A GM station at the head of the table, lighting control for the tabletop, and all the features of a player station. (Any computer-based station would be separate from the table itself.)

Anyone got any ideas or features? I really want to make this the best gaming table my money and physical labor can buy.

 

[cougent]

Question / Suggestion / Whatever...

We used to use a 4x8 table (dining room actually) then switched to using TWO 6x3 folding tables side by side (6x6) in the official "gaming room" (formerly 3rd bedroom, guests go away!) We found this a better fit although occasionally reaching things dead center was an issue. Just wondering if you had considered a square, octagon, or circular design before you start actually building?

It probably does depend on space and circumstance, but if I was going to do what you are doing I would do a square/octagon/circle design instead of the rectangle. It just worked better for me. Ideally a 3.5' radius from dead center would be perfect for me.

 

[malraux]

Also, do you plan to use 3D terrain elements or draw primarily? I've found that with things like dwarven forge/hirst arts, its much better for the table to be lower at about coffee table height rather than dinner table height.

 

[The Little Raven]

Just wondering if you had considered a square, octagon, or circular design before you start actually building?

We hadn't seriously discussed it so far, but I'll talk to my players about it and see what they think.

Also, do you plan to use 3D terrain elements or draw primarily? I've found that with things like dwarven forge/hirst arts, its much better for the table to be lower at about coffee table height rather than dinner table height.

Yes, we do plan to use 3D terrain, as we've started using WorldWorks stuff. I've thought about having a lower table in order to facilitate easier 3D play, so I will keep this suggestion in mind.

Thanks, guys!

 

[Mark Hope]

Two of our players recently built a table based on the design of the Ultimate Gaming Table linked to above (8' x 4', gridded, plexiglass cover, each player has a pull-out drawer which is also plexiglass covered.) The room has surround-sound, controlled from the DM station, which also supports a laptop.

I can't recommend it highly enough. As DM, it has totally transformed running a game, not least by the fact that I have a 4' wide pull-out tray for my combat pad, cards, etc, as well as the table itself.

To address some of the points you raised:

I doubt you'd need a table lip. We've never had dice come anywhere near the edge of the table. Some kind of recess to stop pencils from rolling off the pullout trays would be useful, though.

We have sufficient overhead lighting, so don't need any more. You might find that you lose visibility across the table if you go for small areas of illumination. Be sure to check that out before you spend the $$$ on installing fancy little lights all over the place

Pay attention to the table height. Ours is set to be at a comfortable height to stand around (we do a lot of standing when gaming). When seated, it's perfectly fine, but not at a height for dealing with minis etc on the grid. I'd say it's hard to do both. Because of the size of the table, you pretty much have to stand (as DM) to reach all parts of the grid. So make sure the table is at a height that you can be comfortable with when playing in your accustomed pose.

Storage shelves are a good idea. If you use minis, have a minis shelf close at hand for the DM.

If you use music, make sure you have a decent system installed.

Get comfy chairs! We're using lovely office chairs with a nice big one for the DM. Mmmmmm. Comfy.

We have yet to do it, but we're planning on putting in a small fridge for cold snacks. Saves on traipsing up the stairs back into the real world

Oh, and keep us posted on your progress!

 

[XCorvis]

Don't forget to look at The Sultan...

Galvanized steel is going to be pretty expensive. Consider starting with a scored whiteboard and popping it out later when you get the money for the steel.

 

[EATherrian]

Looks great to me. Could you explain why you need the steel? I'm not up on all the newest things. Also, with the steel, is the plexiglass cover made to be removed? Maybe this is why I'm confused.

 

[The Little Raven]

Don't forget to look at The Sultan...

Yeah I heard something about that one. However, the nearly 10k price tag made me choke.

Galvanized steel is going to be pretty expensive. Consider starting with a scored whiteboard and popping it out later when you get the money for the steel.

I actually have a good hookup on galvanized steel through my brother-in-law's business, so the cost isn't that much of an issue for me.

 

[The Little Raven]

Could you explain why you need the steel?

We use http://www.aleatools.com/, but they have the bad happen of attracting eachother, so you have minis sliding around a little sometimes. Using galvanized steel makes them adhere to the steel more than eachother, so you don't get that problem.

Also, with the steel, is the plexiglass cover made to be removed?

It could be. One of my players suggested keeping it loose so I could slide paper maps and things between the glass and the grid.