swords?

Galethorn said:
A hand-and-a-half or light two-handed sword should balance in the same range, but are best served with a closer point of balance.

Very well said, Galethorn!

My trusty hand-and-a-half sword has ist point of balance three fingers wide in front of the crossguard, as most period german swords from around the 3rd crusade did. And thats the point where it has to be when using it in a swordfight - at least according to my experience from some years of heavy use in medieval reenactment.

The point why every type of sword or more general every type of melee weapon has a different rule for its point of balane is easy to think of: it has its own style of fighting!
 

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Galethorn said:
Weight is a very different matter, however; a one-handed sword, under almost any circumstances, shouldn't weight more than about 3.5 pounds, and that's for either a really heavy chopper or an exceptionally long and balanced rapier. 2.5 is more like it. A hand-and-a-half sword shouldn't weigh more than 4 pounds, under any circumstances; 3 is more like average. 8 pounds is heavy for a greatsword, 5 pounds is on the high end of average.

Good post over all Galethorn, your only mistake IMHO is regarding the "greatsword", which you appear to be following in the steps of D&D by confusing with a true two hander (i.e. dopplehander) and are still exxagerating the weight of. Greatswords or War swords are longswords more specialized for cutting than thrusting. They are the same length as longswords, i.e. about 4- 4 1/2 ' long, or up to around 56". Actual greatswords used in combat very rarely weigh more than about 3 1/2 lbs. Longswords, and bastard swords (which are longswords more specialized for thrusting) usually weigh around 3 to 2 1/2 lbs respectivley.

True two handed swords, i.e. flammards, zweihanders or dopplehanders from the renaissance, are up to 6 feet long, but even those massive weapons never weighed more than about 4.5 pounds if you are speaking of a weapon used in combat, most around 3.5 - 4 lbs (several of these survive because they were made in the 16th-17th century). The confusion springs from the existence of procession swords, which were made for carrying around in parades and such all the way into the 19th century, but never used in combat. These were sometimes as much as 8 feet long and could weigh 15 lbs or more! But they really are no more 'swords' so much as just decorations.

Of course, another factor in this is that a lot of modern replicas are still much heavier than the originals they are based on. You can see a good archive of original weapons at http://www.myarmoury.com

So, that's just what a guy who's been studying *swords for six years has to say. I'm not saying I'm an expert or anything, but I'm basing those numbers on the documented stats of surviving antiques, as well as the modern-made replicas I've seen, handled, and cut with.

*(though not swordsmanship; don't try to ask me how to counter Pflung while in Ochs)

It's 'pflug" :} and you should try some WMA, it's a lot of fun... :)

DB
 

Darklone said:
Another matter: Don't touch the blade of a real sword. You'll see it rust pretty fast and you'll have a nice rusty fingerprint on the metal.

So if someone gives you a "real" sword and tells you to hold it at the blade, forget it. It's a piece of stainless steel.
Ummm, the point of stainless steel is that it doesn't really rust.
 

As a sports epeeist, I'm naturally attracted to finesse-focused, rapier-wielding PC concepts. I have the opportunity to weigh the heft of various swords on sale at the club (a side business; they're mostly for show). And from my limited, practical point of view regarding such long, thin, pointy blades, I can't help but fall in love with those swords that have a balance point nearest the guard.

I also imagine my main duelist character has developed his own pre-modern form of the "orthopedic" hilt, or so-called pistol grip, which is used very often in sport fencing. But I lack sufficient knowledge in swordmaking history to know whether such constructions were even considered in the way-back. Anyone know?
 



Stainless steel will rust just like any other metal.

If you mean that the iron will bond with oxygen eventually, then yes.

However, because to the nature of stainless, it will take a lot longer to rust than, say, regular steel. The Chromium content (at least 10%) bonds with oxygen to prevent most rusting and creates a very hard surface layer.

It will also not take abrasions as well (harder to sharpen) and will more readily handle the acidic oils found on most people skin.

Most wall-hangers are not stainless, they are usually mild steel with a nickel or zinc or chromium coating of somesort to keep them shiny and unrusty.
 
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Mystery Man said:
Stainless steel will rust just like any other metal.
Not because you touch it once. You ever eaten with "silver"ware? It's stainless steel that is handled all the time, and I've never had a spoon go rusty on me yet.
 


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