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The YAARGH Armor Revision
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<blockquote data-quote="seasong" data-source="post: 947045" data-attributes="member: 5137"><p>An entire day's worth of firewood costs 1 cp. That's enough firewood to heat a small house for a day, and you would likely need about 5-10x that to heat metal for a few hours worth per day (a few hours on average - you would use more wood during the initial months, and considerably less during the polish, fitting and grinding months). That comes out to somewhere between 20 and 40 gold pieces.</p><p></p><p>The metal used in mail required no further forging, but it required a ton of work prior to being purchased by the smith - where the smith takes on the expense of the plate armor shaping, the person he purchased it from took on the expense of the mail armor drawing of wire. In both cases, the <em>raw material</em> cost should be reasonably similar, if not more expensive for the mail due to markup between friends.</p><p></p><p>This is true. I've already said that I don't agree with the skill requirements in the PHB, but I don't have good crafting rules to replace them yet.</p><p></p><p>I think you may be correct. That would certainly help. And a well known (INT 16) dwarven armorer with skill focus, an expert-0 apprentice, and masterwork tools could get up to around +15. At 1st level. Ick.</p><p></p><p>DR-only is the system I used for my <em>Light Against the Dark</em> campaign. If you want to check it out, the full rules (it's more d20 than D&D, though) are <a href="http://seasong.home.texas.net/sh/index.html" target="_blank">here</a>.</p><p></p><p>Doh! The weight <em>is</em> wrong. The plate armor should be 65-75 lbs. The armor itself (the plate and bits of mail) should be about 60-65 lbs. The cloth padding and bits + pieces should add another 5-10 lbs. I just didn't spot the error. So... mea culpa, mea culpa - I should have double checked the first time someone cried at the 100 lb weight.</p><p></p><p>Of course, that's still not a far cry from 100, and you will likely still protest <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f609.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" data-smilie="2"data-shortname=";)" />. But the fact is, the average grunt (who did not carry more than 40 lbs with him) did not wear plate - he may have worn torso only segmented plate, at most, but that's about it. The plate armor here is intended to help model the armor worn by knights intending to fight on horseback, and who (even on foot) could reasonably be expected to have STR 14-18, and be able to shoulder the burden.</p><p></p><p>Great!</p><p></p><p>My players still won't wear it <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f609.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" data-smilie="2"data-shortname=";)" />. The original reason was just ease of calculation, but really, they seem to still balance reasonably well at those levels.</p><p></p><p>I'll come back to your analysis of armors on the battlefield - it looks good, though.</p><p></p><p>See above. I erred. And at under 80 lbs, the max Dex bonus is +1.</p><p></p><p>Actually, I this this is a myth. I've worn weights (wrists, undearm, waist, and knees) at around 100 lbs, and was able to get up in a few seconds unassisted. I am not an immensely strong person, and the weights were not what one would call "balanced for human movement".</p><p></p><p>It doesn't help that there are different kinds of padded armor. The romans had glued layers of thick cloth that they wore under their metal armors, to absorb impact and sweat; even by itself, it was reasonably useful against a club. The lightly padded quilts that were worn under other armors at later dates bore little resemblance to the Roman version, however, and in theory you could make yourself look like a walking pillow if you wanted. I just went with a good average that was roughly equivalent in weight to Russian winter wear, on the theory that that would be sufficient to provide some protection.</p><p></p><p>This is assuming armor which is a half step below boiled plate leather (lamellar is the fat-hardened and shaped leather, yes?); which is padded with cloth armor beneath; and which is thick enough to be useful. It is not a catsuit, fanboy artists aside.</p><p></p><p>Studded leather plate can be called brigandine if it makes you feel better <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f609.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" data-smilie="2"data-shortname=";)" />. And it is not as rigid as some of the other semi-rigid armors.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="seasong, post: 947045, member: 5137"] An entire day's worth of firewood costs 1 cp. That's enough firewood to heat a small house for a day, and you would likely need about 5-10x that to heat metal for a few hours worth per day (a few hours on average - you would use more wood during the initial months, and considerably less during the polish, fitting and grinding months). That comes out to somewhere between 20 and 40 gold pieces. The metal used in mail required no further forging, but it required a ton of work prior to being purchased by the smith - where the smith takes on the expense of the plate armor shaping, the person he purchased it from took on the expense of the mail armor drawing of wire. In both cases, the [i]raw material[/i] cost should be reasonably similar, if not more expensive for the mail due to markup between friends. This is true. I've already said that I don't agree with the skill requirements in the PHB, but I don't have good crafting rules to replace them yet. I think you may be correct. That would certainly help. And a well known (INT 16) dwarven armorer with skill focus, an expert-0 apprentice, and masterwork tools could get up to around +15. At 1st level. Ick. DR-only is the system I used for my [i]Light Against the Dark[/i] campaign. If you want to check it out, the full rules (it's more d20 than D&D, though) are [URL=http://seasong.home.texas.net/sh/index.html]here[/URL]. Doh! The weight [i]is[/i] wrong. The plate armor should be 65-75 lbs. The armor itself (the plate and bits of mail) should be about 60-65 lbs. The cloth padding and bits + pieces should add another 5-10 lbs. I just didn't spot the error. So... mea culpa, mea culpa - I should have double checked the first time someone cried at the 100 lb weight. Of course, that's still not a far cry from 100, and you will likely still protest ;). But the fact is, the average grunt (who did not carry more than 40 lbs with him) did not wear plate - he may have worn torso only segmented plate, at most, but that's about it. The plate armor here is intended to help model the armor worn by knights intending to fight on horseback, and who (even on foot) could reasonably be expected to have STR 14-18, and be able to shoulder the burden. Great! My players still won't wear it ;). The original reason was just ease of calculation, but really, they seem to still balance reasonably well at those levels. I'll come back to your analysis of armors on the battlefield - it looks good, though. See above. I erred. And at under 80 lbs, the max Dex bonus is +1. Actually, I this this is a myth. I've worn weights (wrists, undearm, waist, and knees) at around 100 lbs, and was able to get up in a few seconds unassisted. I am not an immensely strong person, and the weights were not what one would call "balanced for human movement". It doesn't help that there are different kinds of padded armor. The romans had glued layers of thick cloth that they wore under their metal armors, to absorb impact and sweat; even by itself, it was reasonably useful against a club. The lightly padded quilts that were worn under other armors at later dates bore little resemblance to the Roman version, however, and in theory you could make yourself look like a walking pillow if you wanted. I just went with a good average that was roughly equivalent in weight to Russian winter wear, on the theory that that would be sufficient to provide some protection. This is assuming armor which is a half step below boiled plate leather (lamellar is the fat-hardened and shaped leather, yes?); which is padded with cloth armor beneath; and which is thick enough to be useful. It is not a catsuit, fanboy artists aside. Studded leather plate can be called brigandine if it makes you feel better ;). And it is not as rigid as some of the other semi-rigid armors. [/QUOTE]
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