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<blockquote data-quote="Nellisir" data-source="post: 4026736" data-attributes="member: 70">OK, here's more than you ever needed to know about wood and shelving.Plywood is better than particle board.&nbsp; Softwoods (pine) are better than plywood.&nbsp; Hardwoods (oak) are better than soft woods.&nbsp; A single 2x4x8 KD (that's 2&quot;x4&quot;x8' Kiln-Dried, as opposed to Pressure Treated/PT or rough-sawn) is cheaper than a sheet of plywood, which will run you around $30 per sheet for your basic CDX - but you need alot more 2x4s and cinderblocks.&nbsp; On the other hand, you also need to be able to cut that sheet of plywood.You can span about 3' with a plywood shelf, but no more, and you'll get a little sag in it over time.&nbsp; You can also put a brace underneath it, as mentioned above, or get some 1x2 pine and glue &amp; nail an edging onto it.If you want to stick with the framing lumber (2x), get 2x10x8'.&nbsp; You'll only need one per shelf instead of 3.If you go with plywood, you can do veneer or regular plywood.&nbsp; Veneer has a &quot;real wood&quot; surface on it - oak, maple, pine, cherry, etc.&nbsp; My Home Depot regularly carries &quot;cabinet-grade&quot; maple plywood at about $30-$35 a sheet, which is a steal.&nbsp; Regular veneer will run you $45-$50 and up.Standard plywood is graded A-D, with A being very smooth and D being rough with voids.&nbsp; X is an archaic term that refers to the glue.&nbsp; Most plywood has a good side and a bad side, so you'll usually see CD, BC, and AB plywood.&nbsp; CD is rough but functional.&nbsp; AB is very nice.&nbsp; Also more expensive.You can also get MDF, which stands for Medium-Density Fiberboard.&nbsp; It's not &quot;wood&quot;, per se, but works well for shelves provided it's reinforced.&nbsp; There's no grain, so it will bend easily under load.&nbsp; It also weighs a ton.&nbsp; Do not, under any circumstances, get it wet, and always prime before you paint.For simple quick shelves, you can buy plywood stair treads.&nbsp; They'll usually be 12&quot; x 48&quot; with a simple bullnose (rounded) front edge.&nbsp; 12&quot; is deeper than you need, but now you can put your drink on the shelf too.If it matters, remember that 1x is actually 3/4&quot; thick, and 2x is actually 1.5&quot; thick.Weightwise, you shouldn't have an issue unless you live in a really old house.&nbsp; It's nice if you can put the shelves against an exterior wall, but not necessary.&nbsp; The fact that your floor bounces does not mean it's weak.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Nellisir, post: 4026736, member: 70"] OK, here's more than you ever needed to know about wood and shelving. Plywood is better than particle board. Softwoods (pine) are better than plywood. Hardwoods (oak) are better than soft woods. A single 2x4x8 KD (that's 2"x4"x8' Kiln-Dried, as opposed to Pressure Treated/PT or rough-sawn) is cheaper than a sheet of plywood, which will run you around $30 per sheet for your basic CDX - but you need alot more 2x4s and cinderblocks. On the other hand, you also need to be able to cut that sheet of plywood. You can span about 3' with a plywood shelf, but no more, and you'll get a little sag in it over time. You can also put a brace underneath it, as mentioned above, or get some 1x2 pine and glue & nail an edging onto it. If you want to stick with the framing lumber (2x), get 2x10x8'. You'll only need one per shelf instead of 3. If you go with plywood, you can do veneer or regular plywood. Veneer has a "real wood" surface on it - oak, maple, pine, cherry, etc. My Home Depot regularly carries "cabinet-grade" maple plywood at about $30-$35 a sheet, which is a steal. Regular veneer will run you $45-$50 and up. Standard plywood is graded A-D, with A being very smooth and D being rough with voids. X is an archaic term that refers to the glue. Most plywood has a good side and a bad side, so you'll usually see CD, BC, and AB plywood. CD is rough but functional. AB is very nice. Also more expensive. You can also get MDF, which stands for Medium-Density Fiberboard. It's not "wood", per se, but works well for shelves provided it's reinforced. There's no grain, so it will bend easily under load. It also weighs a ton. Do not, under any circumstances, get it wet, and always prime before you paint. For simple quick shelves, you can buy plywood stair treads. They'll usually be 12" x 48" with a simple bullnose (rounded) front edge. 12" is deeper than you need, but now you can put your drink on the shelf too. If it matters, remember that 1x is actually 3/4" thick, and 2x is actually 1.5" thick. Weightwise, you shouldn't have an issue unless you live in a really old house. It's nice if you can put the shelves against an exterior wall, but not necessary. The fact that your floor bounces does not mean it's weak. [/QUOTE]

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