Teflon Billy
Explorer
Add a third vote for Zap-a-Gap.
Truly amazing stuff.
Truly amazing stuff.
Why won't the glue work? (minis)
- Thread starter Quasqueton
- Start date
KnowTheToe
First Post
die_kluge said:
Zap-A-Gap and Zap Zap kicker will give you a good instant bond.
Olgar Shiverstone
Legend
double post
Last edited:
Olgar Shiverstone
Legend
Yep, use a quality CA (cyanoacrylate) glue, with an accelerator, for best effect. I like Bob Smith's the best, myself, but ZAP (in it's many varieties), SuperJet, Hot Stuff, and the like are also great products, that are more pure CA than Krazy.
I prefer the thin varieties myself -- you can make it gap-filling by pre-applying the accelerator, or using a little baking soda as a micro-ballon-like filler.
Also, I recommend the oderless varieties, as they (1) don't have the eye-watering fumes, (2) are a little slower-drying, (3) it doesn't eat foam, and (4) have a lower allergy risk. Some folks have severe reactions to CA, and it's a reaction that can be built over long-term exposure (though that would be a lot of minis, if that's all you're using the glue for).
Another trick -- store your CA in the freezer when you're not using it; the bottle will last longer before drying up (let it warm up a bit before using; it'll be slower right out of the freezer).
- Olgar (who's used a lot of CA, mostly for things other than minis)
I prefer the thin varieties myself -- you can make it gap-filling by pre-applying the accelerator, or using a little baking soda as a micro-ballon-like filler.
Also, I recommend the oderless varieties, as they (1) don't have the eye-watering fumes, (2) are a little slower-drying, (3) it doesn't eat foam, and (4) have a lower allergy risk. Some folks have severe reactions to CA, and it's a reaction that can be built over long-term exposure (though that would be a lot of minis, if that's all you're using the glue for).
Another trick -- store your CA in the freezer when you're not using it; the bottle will last longer before drying up (let it warm up a bit before using; it'll be slower right out of the freezer).
- Olgar (who's used a lot of CA, mostly for things other than minis)
Ysgarran
Registered User
This is the best solution...two part epoxies that are aimed at metals. I went this route when my dragon that I had sitting on my computer monitor fell apart and came crashing down on my keyboard.
As Ottergame mentions, make sure you get it right the first time because you are just as likely to break the metal itself as opposed to epoxy bond if you try to take it apart again.
Ysgarran.
As Ottergame mentions, make sure you get it right the first time because you are just as likely to break the metal itself as opposed to epoxy bond if you try to take it apart again.
Ysgarran.
Ottergame said:
Earlier it was mentioned that you should clean the miniatures. It seemed this was taken to just the removal of flash and having a well fitting join. The miniature molds are oiled to prevent sticking, and the metal miniatures have sa slight amount of this residual oil on them when they are packaged. Clean the surface completely with a liquid soap that cuts grease, like dish soap. Then dry well, and glue the pieces to together. Use zap-a-gap and zip kicker as well. Both excellent products.
Nate
Nate
don't forget...
zap a gap w/zip kicker works well...
personally i like the GW super glue--it's almost as good as zap a gap and you get twice as much in a bottle for nearly the same price.
Remember that if you fail to glue a fig together (typically by putting too much glue on at first--use superglue sparingly), you've got to wipe off the excess glue before trying again. If some the glue has hardened, use sprue clippers or some other sharp tool to carefully peel off the hardening goop. If you don't, then the next time you try to glue the fig you end up trying to bond superglue residue together instead of the pewter surfaces.
Another thing to remember:
Zip kicker rapidly hardens super glue but...
The fumes are really nasty and very toxic and cause nerve damage in lab animals
so be careful using it (always wash up immediately).
The speed comes at a price. The bond is more brittle than if you let the super glue dry normally. For figs with large bulky parts, be prepared to make lots of repairs if you don't reinforce the bond with pinning, green stuff or extra drops of glue.
Also note that zip kicker will bond superglue that comes into contact with the fumes, so be careful you don't have your superglue bottle nearby when you spray, or you might just seal the nozzle shut.
zap a gap w/zip kicker works well...
personally i like the GW super glue--it's almost as good as zap a gap and you get twice as much in a bottle for nearly the same price.
Remember that if you fail to glue a fig together (typically by putting too much glue on at first--use superglue sparingly), you've got to wipe off the excess glue before trying again. If some the glue has hardened, use sprue clippers or some other sharp tool to carefully peel off the hardening goop. If you don't, then the next time you try to glue the fig you end up trying to bond superglue residue together instead of the pewter surfaces.
Another thing to remember:
Zip kicker rapidly hardens super glue but...
The fumes are really nasty and very toxic and cause nerve damage in lab animals
so be careful using it (always wash up immediately).
The speed comes at a price. The bond is more brittle than if you let the super glue dry normally. For figs with large bulky parts, be prepared to make lots of repairs if you don't reinforce the bond with pinning, green stuff or extra drops of glue.
Also note that zip kicker will bond superglue that comes into contact with the fumes, so be careful you don't have your superglue bottle nearby when you spray, or you might just seal the nozzle shut.
Earlier it was mentioned that you should clean the miniatures. It seemed this was taken to just the removal of flash and having a well fitting join. The miniature molds are oiled to prevent sticking, and the metal miniatures have sa slight amount of this residual oil on them when they are packaged. Clean the surface completely with a liquid soap that cuts grease, like dish soap. Then dry well, and glue the pieces to together. Use zap-a-gap and zip kicker as well. Both excellent products.
Nate
Nate
Painfully
First Post
I recommend epoxy putty over super glue for attaching bases to figs. The reason being that even when using super glue, the gaps need to be filled before any base material can be applied. You can avoid the two-step process by simply using putty in the first place.
A hobby CA glue is preferable over stuff you find in your drug store IMO. Zap-a-gap and Bob Smith are both good brands.
Although I've bought some CA accelerator, I find I simply don't use it. Pressing firmly, and applying the glue thinly to one of the two SMOOTH surfaces has always worked for me.
Here is a good page to look at:
Bob Smith Industries
A hobby CA glue is preferable over stuff you find in your drug store IMO. Zap-a-gap and Bob Smith are both good brands.
Although I've bought some CA accelerator, I find I simply don't use it. Pressing firmly, and applying the glue thinly to one of the two SMOOTH surfaces has always worked for me.
Here is a good page to look at:
Bob Smith Industries
deltadave
First Post
Preparation of the figures is key, mold release or finger oils will wreak havoc on glue of any kind. I use hot soapy water and a tooth brush to get all parts then rinse off in clean running water to remove all traces of soap. rubbing alcohol is good too, but expensive. After this, use clean cotton gloves to handle the figures until you prime them.
CA glue is ok for plastic but brittle, especially if you use kicker. I like epoxy or JB weld for metal mini's. For plastic, Tenax 7R is fantastic, it melts the plastic together into one piece and seeps into any small cracks to prevent gaps.
For assembling large 25mm figures or anything larger than 54mm, pinning the parts together is very important too. Steel pins should hold the figure together without glue...
Just a few things from my experience, of course YMMV.
CA glue is ok for plastic but brittle, especially if you use kicker. I like epoxy or JB weld for metal mini's. For plastic, Tenax 7R is fantastic, it melts the plastic together into one piece and seeps into any small cracks to prevent gaps.
For assembling large 25mm figures or anything larger than 54mm, pinning the parts together is very important too. Steel pins should hold the figure together without glue...
Just a few things from my experience, of course YMMV.
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