Nyrfherdr's Sculpting Tips (New 7/20- Sculpting the body)

nyrfherdr

First Post
Pogre... Cool idea. I am very familiar with VIP, although I haven't submitted anything. It has actually spawned several of my mini ideas.
I'd be happy to coordinate a similar concept here once I finish my articles.

As to the sculpting articles:
I have the second phase of face sculpting coming this weekend (hopefully)
Then I'll cover anatomy/skin/hair
Then a little something on clothing
Then a little something on armor
Finish with accessorizing...
(not necessarily in that order...)

That will take a couple of weeks at the minimum!

Game ON!
Nyrfherdr
 

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pogre

Legend
nyrfherdr said:
Pogre... Cool idea. I am very familiar with VIP, although I haven't submitted anything. It has actually spawned several of my mini ideas.
I'd be happy to coordinate a similar concept here once I finish my articles.

Excellent! I realize you have a lot left on this thread, but I just wanted to throw the idea out there.

Here's another idea:

I could make RTV molds of completed projects and cast pewter miniatures from them. Everyone would have to pony up $5 or so for postage, but I would handle the rest. It might serve as an incentive - kind of like what they do in VIP. Everyone would then get a pewter copy of everyone else's efforts.

What do you think?
 

nyrfherdr

First Post
Here's the next article in this fascinating series.
Photos to come. The camera ended up used in the 4th of July festivities so I must retake some of my pics. I'll post them in a few days.

Pogre: I love the idea. We can start almost any time. I'll continue to add articles to this thread as I have the time and inspiration...
 

nyrfherdr

First Post
Faces - Part Ii

More on faces:

Once you have some oval shapes on the end of a pin or wire, you have the makings of a head for a miniature. The next step is to create a face. Add some putty to your cured roll and start shaping. It is OK to rough out the shape and then let it cure again, although many sculptors recommend against that. They feel strongly that the best faces are done in one sitting because everything stays in proportion and you don’t end up with out of balance features.
Speaking of proportions, keeping faces in proportion is probably the most difficult. It isn’t so much keeping the face in proportion to itself (eyes, nose and ears the right size for the head you have created, it is keeping the head in 30mm). Working in 28-30mm scale means keeping things pretty small. You’ll find that you often make something look really good, only to find it is 2-3 times bigger than it should be.

Also… You don’t need very much putty (green stuff) for a face. A very small bit for a nose, a little ball for each ear, etc.

It is best to put fresh putty on the face where you want it for maximum adhesion and then work it on the face into the shape you want.

Always start with a basic shape of the face, square for a human male, more heartshape for a human female (I’m not that good at females, personally). Other shapes for non-humans. Once that is in the right shape and size, start adding details.

Eyes are the most important. These should definitely be done at the same time. You can’t match them up in separate sittings. At least I have never seen that done successfully.
Press in the brow and eye socket and then add a little more putty into each socket to be the eyeball and eyelid. You can make a simple eye just by flattening a small ball into the standard ‘oval-like’ shape of an eye and lid. If you are a good painter you can turn this into a quality look.

If you are more adventurous, you can create a lid for your eyes. This is obviously the most dramatic, but also the least visible on the tabletop. It depends on what you want to accomplish with your sculpt.

The nose can be a simple roll of putty, or you can add nostrils and shape the bridge to meet the needs of your Roman aristocrat, etc. It depends on your skill level and how adventurous you are. Remember that a woman’s nose should be understated, unless you are looking to make a crone of some kind. When doing women’s faces it is probably even more important to stick with the standards of proportion and Classical norms than in a man’s face.

Ears are simple a ball that you press into with rounded tool to create the internal shape of the ear. You’ll find that they become too big very quickly. Always look at the ears from the front to insure that you have them even.
It is OK to skip the ears entirely if hair, hood, hat or helmet will cover it.
Same goes for hair. I usually wait to do hair until I have more of the mini done, because armor and clothing often cover parts of the head.
 

pogre

Legend
How much do you work the cheekbone structure? - it seems like some of my favorite sculptors have a knack for doing cheekbones really well. My attempts thus far have been poor at best.
 

pogre

Legend
nyrfherdr said:
Pogre: I love the idea. We can start almost any time. I'll continue to add articles to this thread as I have the time and inspiration...

Well, I can brainstorming ideas while this thread continues to grow in length with valuable information. My initial thought is some sort of Satyr/Pan/Beastman/woman. My only request is that we keep it fantasy based.
 

nyrfherdr

First Post
Sculpting Faces

Photos in reference to above tips...

In this photo you can see that the skull is actually too big for the scale.


In this photo you can see the tool I use for eyes and noses...


In this photo is a tool I use for ears. Sometimes I use the tool above first. Or a pin that isn't so small.


Here's another look at the face without tools in the way...


And here are several different character studies...










These last two are projects under way...

Here is a head of a Dwarf/Half-Fiend something or other (He's a BBEG I'm sculpting for an upcoming climactic battle)


Another BBEG that will actually be faced by the same adventurers earlier in the campaign. She is known as 'The Red Queen' and she is the mother of the above Dwarf/Half-Fiend.


Next Article will be on body anatomy... I hope. My schedule is getting more hectic by the moment.

Game ON!
Nyrfherdr
 

nyrfherdr

First Post
Pogre: I wanted to have some reference photos before answering your question on cheekbones.

As you can see in the photos, cheekbones are very important.
If you shape the 'skull' first and then add details, often the cheekbones come out easier and better, but it depends a bit on serendipity.

Frankly, some of my best faces started as character studies/practice, vs. trying hard to get a specific look. But remember, I'm not commissioning my work, so a specific look isn't required. I only have to meet my own standards.

TIP: Finish what you start. It is OK to 'give up' on something that is truly not good or you are unhappy with, but it is actually better to complete the project. Completed work gives you something done, accomplished and something to be proud of. I even paint my completed projects, even if I'm not happy with them. The character studies in the photos above will become miniatures. I've only left them as heads for this article series.

TIP: Keep those early projects/failed experiments. They will contrast greatly with your later work and work you are more proud of.

Later in this series of fascinating articles that have captured the imagination of the entire ENWorld community, I will be posting pictures of completed work with critiques of my own to give you an idea of things to watch out for. As your 3rd grade teacher told you... Making mistakes is one of the best ways to learn. And I've learned a LOT!

Game ON!
Nyrfherdr
 

pogre

Legend
Hey nyrf a question:

Not sure if this is a good place for it so forgive the derailing...

I am planning to cut the face off of one figure to use on another. I have a saw for the purpose. I'm just trying to figure out how to brace the figure I'm going to remove the face from. Suggestions? Feel free to respond elsewhere if you would rather not polute your thread here.

Thanks!
 

nyrfherdr

First Post
Pogre,
No worries on the thread, although I was trying to keep it somewhat focused. It is a public forum afterall.

Anyway on to your question...

A friend in Portland would hold minis in one hand and use the jewelers saw in the other. With patience and extreme care he could make some very delicate cuts. I can't do that.

I use a vice. I have a small jewellers vice I got from my father in law. It looks just like a shop vice, but it is only about the size of a fist.
Depending on the mini, you have to wrap it in cloth, or leather and then not tighten too much. You want the mini stable, but you don't want to crush any of the pewter.
If the mini pose makes this difficult, you can create a holder using a couple of pieces of wood. Put the wood on the mini and then vice clamp the wood. This allows more freedom to clamp the mini at the chest and have the arms of the mini not be bent or crushed. It's hard to describe in words.

Then I can use the jewelers saw with more freedom and make sure I'm cutting exactly what I want. Since the cut is vertical, a vice is pretty ideal.

Good luck and Game ON!
Nyrfherdr

I've seen a rubber ended clamp affair used once, but I never found out where he got it. It was slick because the rubber wrapped around the mini a bit.
 

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