Does anybody use Master Maze for their gaming?

zoroaster100 said:
For large set ups, I set up the entire dungeon or level of the dungeon ahead of time, often a day or two before the game, with all the furnishings, etc. already set in the dungeon.

That's what I do as well. I love MM, but if you're setting up the pieces as you play it does slow things down a bit, though not drastically so. I have mine organized in drawers so they're easy to get to. Regardless, having it set up ahead of time makes the game move much quicker. I use pieces of cardboard to conceal the areas that the PCs haven't gotten to yet.
 

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ehren37 said:
I really dont see why people say that. The molds are expensive (34 dollars) and dont produce many bricks, requiring you to either slave away at cranking the bricks or shell out more money for an additional molds. The plaster isnt exactly super cheap either, then you add in time assembling stuff. Further, unless you design it to be modular, you spend a ton of time making a building, then have to store it forever.

If you have a lot of time on your hands, you can make some stuff a bit cheaper than DF, if you're in it for the long haul. For joe average who wants to make some dungeon rooms,. I'd say a few dwarven forge basic room and passage sets (79 each) will go much further. For a few hundred bucks you can make a good setup. With hirst arts, for a few hundred, you get the stuff to make the stuff to make a good setup. It adds the benefit of making exactly what you want, but I wouldnt really say its FAR better.

One unexpected problem with both is how empty rooms look once built unless you also get some accessories. You've got these great setups, but nothing in them but PC's and monsters. Mega miniatures, JR terrain and printed out cardboard props from worldworks can help this.

I like the Hirst molds and it is time consuming. One way to save time is to assemble a piece (like the base for the Egyptian obelisk) then create a mold of it. You can get the silicone mold rubber at a hobby store. Then cast the base as a one piece. Works for the Egyptian sphinx base as well.

Thanks,
Rich
 

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