glue help

[Davelozzi]

Recently, a friend and I painted up three vrocks (Skalathrix, Vulture Demon, Reaper # 02532). The minis come in two pieces -- body and wings.

At any rate, we had no trouble glueing the wings on two of them, but the third one just won't stick. I've tried it several times over the past three weeks or so. I'm using Citadel Miniatures Super Glue (from Games Workshop). In the past, it's worked pretty well for me, except when there was an obvious flaw in the mini such that the pieces barely touched. This does not seem to be the case with the vrock, as the junction of the wings nests into a hole in the vrock's back pretty nicely.

Any suggestions?

Here's the mini in question (Reaper's catalog image, not the exact mini)...
http://www.reapermini.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=1546&cat=0&page=1

 

[D'karr]

The miniature is probably still coated with a light coat of "mold release". The glue will not bond properly that way.

Grab an old toothbrush and some soapy water and scrub the miniature. Let it dry completely. Make sure that there is no residue left from the old glue, which you used to glue the first time. I usually use an X-Acto knife to flake off the old glue.

Now you should be able to glue the miniature without trouble.

On those reaper vrocks I always pin the wings (I've assembled 3 for friends), the bond surface on the back is pretty flimsy.

 

[Painfully]

I have to agree that pinning is a must for large parts like those wings. It takes a bit more time, but the reward is that you won't be as afraid of things falling apart later on, like when you are in the middle of painting it.

In addition, I would skip the superglue and go straight for epoxy. It has better strength for the kind of stresses you'll probably be putting on those wings, especially if you are a gamer, and not just a painter. Avoid the syringe type of epoxy packages though, once you are about 50% through the package, it tends to become very difficult to continue getting the hardener to push through the tube. Thus, you waste about half the package.

 

[pogre]

Excellent advice above - when the epoxy sets I would also add a layer of kneadatite to remove the seams and add some more stability. Post your paint job when your done. It's gotta' be better than mine!

 

[Davelozzi]

Thanks for the helpful suggestions everyone.

Post your paint job when your done.

Sure, if I can still find this thread when I'm done.
Thanks for the beholder help too.

 

[Drachenherz]

Glue and putty

I use Superglue brand thick gel. This works well for miniatures, and it also fills gaps. As a bonus, it only costs @ $2.79 + tax for a 3 pack of tubes. This type of glue is the most controllable and easy to use. As for putty, I have had excellent results with the Squadron putty for models. It's easy to use, and far easier to reform/resculpt than some of the others put there (one guy I know tried to use Bondo!) Now, on the subject of cleanup, I wholeheartedly agree with those who tell you to use a degreasing agent. My background in plastic injection molding proved that to me without a doubt.

 

[Cthulhu's Librarian]

I like using ZapAGap for glue. Good, tight hold and it fills gaps nicely.

 

[alsih2o]

Great suggestions so far. If I could add one more it would be to look for a product called JBWeld. You can find it at an auto parts store.

JBWeld is used for metal to metal gluing, on things like radiators. Very strong.

 

[Cthulhu's Librarian]

If I could add one more it would be to look for a product called JBWeld. You can find it at an auto parts store.

Ah, so that's where you can get it! I've heard of it and have wanted to try it, but every person in every craft/hobby store that I asked about it gave me a "Huh?" look and said "No, we don't carry it."

 

[Drachenherz]

JBWeld

This is super heavy-duty stuff. Only use this stuff if you don't EVER plan to mess with the figure again. If you wish to strip the piece, or do modifications later, or even if you need to do repairs, this is not the product for you. This should only be used on pieces which are only going to be used for tabletop play heavy-use figures that need a super hold.