How do you fix Crappy Spine Syndrome?

Vraille Darkfang said:
As is industry standard, the pages are grouped into 32 (64?) page 'packets' (not sure of the technical term).

The "packets" are called signatures. Signatures are based off of a multiple of 4, due to the way pages fold. Most are 16 or 32 pages, although I have seen 64 as well.
 

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There's a thread like this over on SJGames forum -- the first printing of GURPS, 4th Edition Basic Set I was crap. I got one, and they replaced it (thereby hangs a tale).

However, someone over there describes a homemade saddlestitch binding that he uses on problems like this. It involves drilling holes in your pages near the actual spine, and using a good length of string to stitch it all up.

He's got instructions here:http://forums.sjgames.com/showpost.php?p=71328&postcount=97.

TWK
 

This reminds me of how AWESOME the AD&D 1E books were. My PHB was used and abused (thrown and stomped on) and never showed the slightest indication that it was coming apart.

I would have paid far more for my 3e books if they had the same characteristics. I can't help but say, "they don't make them like they used to!"

I'm getting old.

Damn.
 

Hjorimir said:
This reminds me of how AWESOME the AD&D 1E books were. My PHB was used and abused (thrown and stomped on) and never showed the slightest indication that it was coming apart.

You obviously didn't own a copy of Unearthed Arcana 1e...
 


What I would do would be one of three things:

1) Do nothing and be careful not to lift the book by a single cover.

2) Use a hot glue gun and inject some glue as far as you can from each end. Clamp it and let it set.

3) Carefully cut and remove the top (printed) layer of the spine. On the cardboard underneath, drill holes large enough to get a hot glue gun into. Generously glue the spine, clamp it and let it set. Carefully glue the printed layer of the spine back.
 

Contact the publisher. Make them PAY for using crappy binding. Don't support companies that make poor products that cannot stand up to normal use.
Let's not forget that sometimes content matters more. My paperback SLA Industries book has that problem, as do many, but I would pay for that book (with that problem) ten times over before I would replace half of my hardcover WOTC books.

I do agree that quality is of the utmost importance but there are some books out there that are worth it in whatever condition you can find them in. Sure I'd like all books to be heavy duty idealy, but sometimes the money isn't there, or the company ends up with a bad printer.
 

Abstraction said:
What I would do would be one of three things:.. Generously glue the spine, clamp it and let it set. Carefully glue the printed layer of the spine back.


Wow, an answer..a standard among vain, expendable posts. ;)

jh
chiropractor :)
 

Emirikol said:
Wow, an answer..a standard among vain, expendable posts. ;)

jh
chiropractor :)

It just looks like an answer. It's really an illusion and you failed your save.

Hey, I'll give you a +2 aid another bonus for next round.

:)

joe b.
 

In the past I've taken old game books to kinkos (or some other copy place with binding services) and have had them re-bind some of my worse off books, usually using a cheap but durable plastic ring-binding or you can opt for a cheaper three-ring binder with clear covers (can be done very nicely).
 

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