Miniatures Paints and Brushes?

[NiTessine]

I use Citadel paints and Citadel brushes.
The brushes aren't that good, but they're cheap, and if you're careful, they'll last long. The paints are also very good, even though the pot design is to paint containers what school dinners are to your digestive system. Care pays off here, too. I've still got some screwcaps over a year old, and the paint is still fresh as the day it was bought. Then again, I also have some flip-tops from seven years back, and they still haven't dried, with the exception of that damned Bestial Brown... Those browns seem to be very proficient when it comes to drying.

For paint stripping... Check out this site.
www.miniature-painting.net
Their links page should have that which you seek.

 

[Flexor the Mighty!]

I use Citadel paints & inks as they are the only paints the local chain of RPG stores sells. I like them but the problem with the paint getting thick is true. I just add water and thin them out so it's not that big of a problem. As for brushes I use Citadel and anything else that will work.

In terms of figures for PC's and non monster stuff I only buy Reaper. Amazing work for an amzing price. For any kind of demons, daemons, or devils I buy Citadel. They do have the best detail and quality, but the prices are too high. I bought a Demon Prince for $26.00, and it was only the medium sized one! I just dropped 40 bucks on one of their cases and that was money well spent.

 

[Mark]

Thanks everyone for the info so far. ...and, NiTessine, that's a great link!

It really seems that the proper brushes, and to a lesser extent the paints you get used to, make all the difference in the world when painting up figs.

Does anyone have some pics to add of their work?

 

[Painfully]

I have to say I'm absolutely loving the Vallejo paints I've bought from the Games-Plus store.

I like the variety of metallics from Reaper, and although I've got some Ral Partha inks, I find that they need to be thinned down just a bit more or it will just stain over everything rather than sinking into the cracks where it belongs.

As for brushes, I've gone through plenty and not really found any particular brand I like. I won't buy any brush that doesn't have a good point. If you want to try it out, I've had some luck using Rapidograph pens for things like eyes, or cloak designs.

For stripping paint I soak a mini in Pine-Sol for an hour and then use an old toothbrush to get into the cracks. Doesn't hurt the mini one bit.

 

[DwarvenBrew]

Pine Sol

For stripping paint I soak a mini in Pine-Sol for an hour and then use an old toothbrush to get into the cracks. Doesn't hurt the mini one bit.

On the GW boards some people were suggesting Pine Sol, but I believe they were soaking them for 36 hours or so. They even claimed that it didn't hurt the plastic Citadel minis.

 

[JesterPoet]

I use Windsor and Newton sable brushes, and Vallejo paints. I wouldn't trade my vallejo paints for anything! They are fantastic, and the fact that you can regulate how much paint comes out of the bottle (by drops) is great!

As for brush size, the only thing it matters for is how much paint flow you want. A smaller brush, generally, does not have a smaller point. It just holds less paint.

If any of you are interested, you can get fantastic tips by joining the mini-painter group at yahoogroups.com. I suggest getting it in digest form though, as you'll get about 150 messages a day!

 

[rounser]

As for brush size, the only thing it matters for is how much paint flow you want. A smaller brush, generally, does not have a smaller point. It just holds less paint.

This sounds correct. On the other hand, I find it more difficult to paint with the tip with larger brushes, and find that when the smaller brushes do splay, they splay less. In other words, IME a 00 tends to splay to a different width than a 10/0, because there's more space between tip and handle. That's just my own observations though, perhaps I'm painting with a poor technique and shouldn't need to go below 000.

 

[Mark]

If any of you are interested, you can get fantastic tips by joining the mini-painter group at yahoogroups.com. I suggest getting it in digest form though, as you'll get about 150 messages a day!

Got a link?

 

[DizzyKungFu]

Citadel paints ARE good, but those people that mentioned that they can dry out and have problems are true. You gotta make sure not to get paint on the cap threads, or they won't close properly and seal themselves in. If they get too bad, a drop or two of isopropyl (rubbing) alchohol will thin them out nicely.

Personally, I never use modeling brushes. They suck, don't last long, and cost too much. Go to your local art store and you can get much better bushes. Personally I like a mix of sable and synthetic brushes for detailed work. Just about any decent brush will work for broad strokes and dry-brushing.

 

[DizzyKungFu]

Oh, also someone earlier in this thread asked for links to our painted miniatures. I have a few of my pieces up on the web, so I thought I'd share. Feedbacks and comments are welcome.

http://www.jimland.org/gallery/minis.html