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No, Hirst Arts. Just...no.


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Jor-El

First Post
I made a bunch of terrain "modules" similar to the Dwarven Forge pieces using foam core. I printed a bunch of textures and floor grids, glued them to the foam core and hot glued the wall sections to the floor sections.

They're very sturdy, they look nice, and they were very, very cheap! Just took a few hours to cut and glue together.

I also cut a bunch of natural cavern modules from pink foam, using a hot wire cutter, and then painted them to look like stone.

Cut up some refrigerator magnets, glue them to the bottoms of all the pieces, and use them on a magnetic white board. Viola! No sliding around!
 


pogre

Legend
I made a bunch of terrain "modules" similar to the Dwarven Forge pieces using foam core. I printed a bunch of textures and floor grids, glued them to the foam core and hot glued the wall sections to the floor sections.

They're very sturdy, they look nice, and they were very, very cheap! Just took a few hours to cut and glue together.

I also cut a bunch of natural cavern modules from pink foam, using a hot wire cutter, and then painted them to look like stone.

Cut up some refrigerator magnets, glue them to the bottoms of all the pieces, and use them on a magnetic white board. Viola! No sliding around!

Very nice - do you have any pictures?
 

Jor-El

First Post
I'll have to upload some!

Combined with some props from Fat Dragon Games and traditional terrain pieces (like tables, chairs, columns, etc.), I can really set up some nice scenery.

Funny how when I was kid, I'd never imagine I'd have the kind of resources that I do now. To think, we used to just use graph paper and that was about it! I remember when I thought a whiteboard was a big step up. :)
 



Put me down as another big Hirst Arts fan. Don't listen to those people that say you can get away with having just 1 mold.

You think you can, but once you start casting, you think of all the even more awesome things you could be building if you had just 1 or 2 more molds. And then pretty soon you find that you own over a dozen molds and have another dozen or so on your to-buy list.

Not that I'm talking from personal experience of course! :blush: :eek::D

I've even managed to suck one of my gaming buddies into the Hirst Arts hobby. I only had to show him a couple of my very first test pieces and he was instantly sold. The good thing about it is that we could go halves in the molds and get twice as many as we would otherwise be able to afford individually.

Yes, it can be relatively expensive, but I would suggest that you give it a go first. If you find it isn't your thing you can generally sell the molds on eBay or other similar places for close to what it cost you in the first place.

Olaf the Stout
 

H.M.Gimlord

Explorer
Don't know if this thread is still active. Last post was August 2010, but I couldn't resist. I bought a 3 Hirst Arts molds (70, 71, 260). These are the Fieldstone sets. I started out making the first encounter of Kobold Hall.[sblock=Pictures]
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[/sblock]The broken door was my son's idea after that piece broke. I used plaster of paris because I'm cheap, Burnt umber for the base coat, and 2:1 gray for the overcoat. Highlights were done with a cream-like color I can't remember right now. The portcullis was made with kabob skewers 1/8", painted with watered-down burnt umber.

I marked a base of 2" extruded polystyrene insulation foam courtesy of Owens Corning. This allowed me to make the pit and line it with wall sections. To do this, I cut completely through the base and lined it with the base upside down. Then I capped (or should I say 'bottomed') the pit with a 1/4" piece of foam-core.

I set the tiles 1/2" off center so minis are placed on the intersections rather than in the center of the tiles. This actually made building the walls easier to manage.

The 1" wide corridor to the north (with the portcullis) is not friendly to 1" D&D miniatures, so I made the east wall of the corridor removable (the portcullis comes off with it).

I'm currently working on the second encounter. It will actually be set 2" lower than this model, so I'm putting this one on 2" blocks to make it high enough. When this is done, I'll post pictures of the progressing layout.
 

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