Today My Bookcase Collapsed Under the Weight of My RPGs

[Dannyalcatraz]

I've used the cinderblock & board method as well...although I think we used some overthick boards.

Currently, I'm using shelves from Haverty's- sturdy as heck, but the back does have a tendency to bulge a bit. That doesn't matter since they're against the wall anyway.

However, if you have the money, check out Container Store's Intermetro shelving. Its the stuff they use in professional spaces, and depending on the line, holds several hundreds of lbs per shelf. Its available in 3' to 6' tall heights, 3' to 5' widths, and depths of 14" to 18".

We have that up all over our house for storage, and even under the weight of a Dragon collection back to issue 30 something, tubs of unopened Chainmail minis, and other RPG stuff, they simply don't sag. Mostly, I'm more worried about the floor they're on...like being in the attic over my car.

 

[Nellisir]

OK, here's more than you ever needed to know about wood and shelving.

Plywood is better than particle board. Softwoods (pine) are better than plywood. Hardwoods (oak) are better than soft woods. A single 2x4x8 KD (that's 2"x4"x8' Kiln-Dried, as opposed to Pressure Treated/PT or rough-sawn) is cheaper than a sheet of plywood, which will run you around $30 per sheet for your basic CDX - but you need alot more 2x4s and cinderblocks. On the other hand, you also need to be able to cut that sheet of plywood.

You can span about 3' with a plywood shelf, but no more, and you'll get a little sag in it over time. You can also put a brace underneath it, as mentioned above, or get some 1x2 pine and glue & nail an edging onto it.

If you want to stick with the framing lumber (2x), get 2x10x8'. You'll only need one per shelf instead of 3.

If you go with plywood, you can do veneer or regular plywood. Veneer has a "real wood" surface on it - oak, maple, pine, cherry, etc. My Home Depot regularly carries "cabinet-grade" maple plywood at about $30-$35 a sheet, which is a steal. Regular veneer will run you $45-$50 and up.

Standard plywood is graded A-D, with A being very smooth and D being rough with voids. X is an archaic term that refers to the glue. Most plywood has a good side and a bad side, so you'll usually see CD, BC, and AB plywood. CD is rough but functional. AB is very nice. Also more expensive.

You can also get MDF, which stands for Medium-Density Fiberboard. It's not "wood", per se, but works well for shelves provided it's reinforced. There's no grain, so it will bend easily under load. It also weighs a ton. Do not, under any circumstances, get it wet, and always prime before you paint.

For simple quick shelves, you can buy plywood stair treads. They'll usually be 12" x 48" with a simple bullnose (rounded) front edge. 12" is deeper than you need, but now you can put your drink on the shelf too.

If it matters, remember that 1x is actually 3/4" thick, and 2x is actually 1.5" thick.

Weightwise, you shouldn't have an issue unless you live in a really old house. It's nice if you can put the shelves against an exterior wall, but not necessary. The fact that your floor bounces does not mean it's weak.

 

[Nellisir]

Aside from the 4-inch wide measurement, 3/4-inch is plenty thick. You can reinforce it by screwing strips of wood 1"x1" (run it lengthwise) to the bottom of each shelving.

You generally want the reinforcement to be rectangular in cross-section, not square. 1x1's also often have a prominent knot that creates a weak point, so scrutinize your materials carefully.

 

[bento]

From my one experience in buying furniture from IKEA, I would advise against it. The laminate on it is paper thin and the wood feel so lightweight that I really wouldn't want anything with much weight on the shelves.

Olaf the Stout

All depends on which shelves you buy from Ikea. Our Ivar shelves have held our library for almost ten years. Made out of solid pine, these are really good and long-lasting shelves. I really like they are modular, come in different heights, widths and lengths. You can buy pieces to wrap them around corners, store different types of media, and even install a desk within it.

I've also heard from others on this board about the strength of their Billy line of shelves.

 

[pawsplay]

I've also heard from others on this board about the strength of their Billy line of shelves.

So far, ours has been a trooper.

 

[DestroyYouAlot]

I'm the not-so-proud owner of a groaning little two-shelf particleboard bookcase that's currently holding my "in rotation" RPG books... in theory. In reality, I'm way past critical mass for what's floating around the house, and that's not counting what's in boxes. Once we're outta here in a few months (my fiance and I are staying with her folks saving for a place), I'm building myself a nice - MASSIVE - RPG bookshelf for my nerd room, and a combination mini display case / one-shelf bookshelf for the living area. (My dad was a woodworker, so I was pretty much raised with a saw in my hands; a bookshelf is a project for an afternoon. )

 

[Tetsubo]

I...really haven't got anything to add. I don't buy bookcases, I build them.

As an apartment dweller without any shop space, that isn't much of an option for me...

 

[Mean Eyed Cat]

This is one of the reasons why I avoid bookshelves for my RPGs. I just store them in metal file cabinets.

 

[WhatGravitas]

So far, ours has been a trooper.

Our homes are and were IKEA supplied, at least concerning shelves and so on. And everything stands. For years, now. But as Europeans, we're perhaps closer to the source, so YMMV, if the manufacturing across the pond is different. Though I don't think so.

Cheers, LT.

 

[Kid Charlemagne]

This is pretty close to what I've got from Ikea, though mine is a 4x4 grid, not 5x5. Its from the Expedit line.