Why do all Privateer Press Minis suck so much?

[Piratecat]

Why am I reminded of the time we convinced another PC to drink sovereign glue?

 

[hong]

Why am I reminded of the time we convinced another PC to drink sovereign glue?

Wait, another PC? There's ANOTHER Piratecat out there?

 

[Ghostwind]

Wait, another PC? There's ANOTHER Piratecat out there?

Don't you remember Apoc Kitty?

 

[GlassJaw]

When putting together minis, I pretty much assume I'll be pinning, especially if they are going to be handled a lot.

The ONLY superglue I use is Zap-a-Gap. That stuff is absolutely amazing. I've tried every superglue you can imagine and they aren't even close to how good Zap-a-Gap is.

 

[diaglo]

Wait, another PC? There's ANOTHER Piratecat out there?

he was using the past tense in reference to the former PC.

 

[thedungeondelver]

1: Invest in a pin vise and some clippers. If you don't know what a pin vise is, go get an X-Acto knife and buy a basic set of Dremel bits - the tiniest/finest bit in the case is what you'll be using. Take the blade out of the X-Acto knife, insert the drill bit, re-tighten the head of the knife handle et volia. Pin Vise. Clippers can be anything - I use a set of fine wire clippers, but a nice set of sharp nail clippers, or the cutting part of a set of needle-nose pliers. Also grab a box of small-to-medium paperclips.

2: Using your new pin vise, auger a hole in the two parts you're sticking together.

3: Bend out a length of paperclip and insert it into the hole in one of the parts. Do not glue it yet.

3a: cut the paperclip close to the length you think you'll need. Test fit it and trim it down as needed.

4: Secure with a cyanoacrylate based glue on both sides. For ultra quick bonding use a small drop of water. For this I recommend a clean "dropper" style bottle like Reaper uses for their Master Series paints. Water is a cyanoacrylate accellerant (which is why it bonds so fast to skin - we're all moist).

...

To clean minis prior to painting, a gentle but firm brushing with a fine brass wire brush is recommended; this will leave a visually imperceptible patina on the mini to which primer and paint will more readily bond. It will also remove casting release powder residue.

I hope this helps!

 

[ShinHakkaider]

When putting together minis, I pretty much assume I'll be pinning, especially if they are going to be handled a lot.

The ONLY superglue I use is Zap-a-Gap. That stuff is absolutely amazing. I've tried every superglue you can imagine and they aren't even close to how good Zap-a-Gap is.

This man speaks the TRUTH.

Pinning and zap-a-gap are a pretty decent solution to your issue I think.

 

[tzor]

I have had several PP minis that glued together quite well. On the other hand I've given up on a number of small GW minis. For me the problem has always been the right glue and the size of the problem. Getting a good super glue is not easy, I use a kind of thick superglue and even then the set up time is (from a holding it in your hand perspective) long. The smaller the joint is the more annoying it is because you need to apply the right amount of pressure for the duration. Too much and the pieces come apart; too little and the pieces aren't even connected. To make matters worse the glue would rather bond the mini to your fingers than to the other metal and my fingers are often larger than the part of the mini I'm trying to glue on.

 

[JustKim]

Kind of related, but I've had a lot of trouble with the P3 paints becoming unmixed, especially the metals. The first time I got the metals it took about an hour of shaking, no joke, for the color to mix with the metal flakes. I truly did not think they were going to mix at all but kept shaking throughout the day out of frustration. If they sit for a day they have to be shaken for another 5-10 minutes the next time I use them. If they sit for a month I will come back to see the platinum has turned into a layer of metal flakes, a layer of yellow, and a layer of green that now need to be shaken extremely vigorously. The same paint can come out various shades depending on how long it's been shaken and it never mixes completely.

There were some Privateer minis I was interested in, but between this thread and my experiences with the paint, I'm going to skip them.

 

[Blackrat]

Kind of related, but I've had a lot of trouble with the P3 paints becoming unmixed, especially the metals. The first time I got the metals it took about an hour of shaking, no joke, for the color to mix with the metal flakes. I truly did not think they were going to mix at all but kept shaking throughout the day out of frustration. If they sit for a day they have to be shaken for another 5-10 minutes the next time I use them. If they sit for a month I will come back to see the platinum has turned into a layer of metal flakes, a layer of yellow, and a layer of green that now need to be shaken extremely vigorously. The same paint can come out various shades depending on how long it's been shaken and it never mixes completely.

There were some Privateer minis I was interested in, but between this thread and my experiences with the paint, I'm going to skip them.

I can give you a solution to this that I found out after wondering about a detail I noticed in my girlfriends nail-polish-bottle . Drop a tiny metal ball in to the paint. When shaking it helps to mix the metal-flakes to the paint.