Why do all Privateer Press Minis suck so much?

[JustKim]

I can give you a solution to this that I found out after wondering about a detail I noticed in my girlfriends nail-polish-bottle . Drop a tiny metal ball in to the paint. When shaking it helps to mix the metal-flakes to the paint.

That is a great idea!

 

[thedungeondelver]

I can give you a solution to this that I found out after wondering about a detail I noticed in my girlfriends nail-polish-bottle . Drop a tiny metal ball in to the paint. When shaking it helps to mix the metal-flakes to the paint.

Reaper does this - except their "tiny metal balls" are 28mm scale skulls!

 

[Tewligan]

Kind of related, but I've had a lot of trouble with the P3 paints becoming unmixed, especially the metals. The first time I got the metals it took about an hour of shaking, no joke, for the color to mix with the metal flakes. I truly did not think they were going to mix at all but kept shaking throughout the day out of frustration. If they sit for a day they have to be shaken for another 5-10 minutes the next time I use them. If they sit for a month I will come back to see the platinum has turned into a layer of metal flakes, a layer of yellow, and a layer of green that now need to be shaken extremely vigorously. The same paint can come out various shades depending on how long it's been shaken and it never mixes completely.

Although I LOVE most of the P3 paints, most of their metallics are ass on a plate with a few exceptions (Pig Iron=awesome), for some reason. I suggest turning to Games Workshop for your metallic needs, P3 for everything else.

 

[GlassJaw]

Getting a good super glue is not easy

Sure it is. You go buy Zap-a-Gap. Problem solved.

Big +1 on getting a Dremel. Not just on the bits either - get a Dremel tool. That's the only way to fly. Make sure you get a variable speed one though - you don't want to get one that's too fast since the minis are very soft metal.

I use metal paper clips for pinning. Works like a charm.

 

[Creeping Death]

Although I LOVE most of the P3 paints, most of their metallics are ass on a plate with a few exceptions (Pig Iron=awesome), for some reason. I suggest turning to Games Workshop for your metallic needs, P3 for everything else.

Very interesting imagery. I would think that paint stinks and bubbles easily... but I may be wrong.

 

[utopia27]

caution on paint shakers

be careful what 'little metal balls' you drop into your paints... ball bearings and BBs will oxidize eventually, and ruin your paints. Part of the reason Reaper includes little skulls is because they cast them from... <drumroll> our favorite white metals, which won't oxidize.

For minis assembly, nothing beats dry fitting and filing. By the time you get to gluing, the pieces should fit cleanly - superglue as a gap-filler is a BAD IDEA. File and carve to fit, green stuff to fill. Green stuff for post-glue fitting (as appropriate).

and as has been mentioned, for high-handling minis, and 'vulnerable' (e.g. cantilevered arms...) components, there's no beating pinning. I also have to say, for hip joints in particular.... 2 pins in different axes has REALLY helped [can you say... wraithlord?]

 

[pogre]

scoring the two sides you are gluing can help for smaller pieces that are too small to pin.

 

[Vraille Darkfang]

Most of this I alraedy knew.

I treat all my metal minis the same. Reaper, Ral-Partha, Adiken, Mag. Egos, Whoever does the Dungeon Decor line, & several others.

I follow the same process for all my minis.

Privateer Press consitantly if a bigger pain than any other. If it was ALL my minis, I understand. But PP has to do something different. (More mold release maybe).

I use a generic "Extreme Power" Superglue. Which works fine for my Giant Reaper Dragons and variuous micro-bits on various little bits, so that not an issue.

The only new bit was the distilled water bit. Our local water is bad (cave system bad) and can't even meet EPA regulations (really, we get a letter every 6 months how the city had to beg the EPA for a varience as it put too many chemicals in our water). I'll try our Purified Water.

I also tend to get frustrated and do the "More is Better" routine & just glob the glue on. I'll try to refrain.

I pin some pieces, others are just to non-standard for me to clamp.

The other thing I hate about PP is when the minis just don't fit. I have a bunch of their mins with 2 handed weapons with attached hands you glue to the body. I've had up to 5mm gap I've had to deal with.

A 5mm tolerance on a 25mm mini is unacceptable. I don't even buy PP minis if I notice they have 2-points that require them to fit perfectly together (its more than just bending the metal inot place too).

Oh well, I did manage to put Doc Killingsworth from the Pirates Warmachine faction together with no problem.

Watch the glue amount & keep the water pure will hopefully save my much frustration in the future.

 

[jdrakeh]

I find it somewhat odd that nobody else has mentioned what I am about to mention, both because I've found it to be quite useful and because it is a nearly fundamental rule of bonding anything to a metal surface, from paint to solder. . . using a fine file or sand paper, lightly scuff the two metal surfaces to be bonded. Glue, solder, and other liquid-like adhesives bond better to rough surfaces.

For example, when I connect a bit (e.g., hand, weapon, etc) to a larger 25mm mini, I typically use a round jeweler's file to 'rough up' receiving receptacles (i.e., depressions or holes) and an emory board or fine filing board to do the same to the nub, pin, or other adjoining piece that will rest in aforementioned receptacle. It takes an extra two minutes tops and I've never had it result in anything less than a perfect bond.

[Edit: Oops! I guess that Pogre did mention it ]

 

[TheAuldGrump]

I find it somewhat odd that nobody else has mentioned what I am about to mention, both because I've found it to be quite useful and because it is a nearly fundamental rule of bonding anything to a metal surface, from paint to solder. . . using a fine file or sand paper, lightly scuff the two metal surfaces to be bonded. Glue, solder, and other liquid-like adhesives bond better to rough surfaces.

For example, when I connect a bit (e.g., hand, weapon, etc) to a larger 25mm mini, I typically use a round jeweler's file to 'rough up' receiving receptacles (i.e., depressions or holes) and an emory board or fine filing board to do the same to the nub, pin, or other adjoining piece that will rest in aforementioned receptacle. It takes an extra two minutes tops and I've never had it result in anything less than a perfect bond.

[Edit: Oops! I guess that Pogre did mention it ]

So did DungeonDelver.

Darkfang - I have not had any problem with assembling Privateer miniatures - and the only miniatures that I can ever remember having problems with (in regards to gluing) are the ones in the Chronopia and Warzone lines that were originally from Target (?) I believe. (Actually, that is a bit of a lie - gluing the hands on the Confrontation duelists was a pain in the nethers - the join is less than a tenth of an inch across, breaking off if you look at it funny. Nothing to do with material problems though.)

I do believe that Privateer uses more mold release than most companies, and possibly a harder rubber for the molds. I have no idea whether you are also experiencing problems due to hard water or not. It sounds like a possibility, but if so then it is one that I have not experienced.

I use different glues for different needs - Zap-A-Gap for super gluing, DuCo Five Minute Epoxy, and Kneadatite (Green Stuff), depending on how big a join, and how close the tolerances are. Kneadatite gets used a lot in order to fill the Khador Gap.

The Auld Grump, who plays Cygnar for the most part, but uses Cryx for his Iron Kingdoms D20 game....