My usual approach to such questions is shoot the seller an email. I know some really take the time to distinguish between parts based on fine distinctions.
I've tried a few times with varying success to get info straight from manufacturer/seller to varying degrees of success. Sometimes you get a very detailed answer and other it's just a canned prefabricated line.
At least a couple alert their customers that certain things work on Fenders not Squiers, or Gibsons not Epiphones.
It amazes me that this happens as Squier and Epi are owned by their respective parent companies. I've ran into this a lot. As an example, I'm assuming that Fender and Gibson are using better metals while Squier and Epi are using cheap pot metals, but still doesn't really explain why in the last 30 years there should be differences in dimensions.
1) most of my guitars are stock,
Except for a few guitars, the only mod I always do is locking tuners, which can be tricky too.
2) when I modify a guitar, I’m more likely to pay a pro than DIY,
I usually like to give it the old college try at least once, except pickups and electronics, before I pay someone.
4) I tend to buy guitars from lesser-known brands.
As you recommended, Reverend might check one of those out after a G&L. How many guitars do you need? Just one more.
The little guys either use very mainstream parts or very esoteric ones.
Youd think that brands such as Gibson/Epiphone or Fender/Squier would use interchangeable parts, but IME they don't. Electronics I get but a bridge plate. I really think that those saddles were made for a bridge plate with a slightly different bolt pattern, which is why that flared out.
That said, something in the back of my mind says that some parts are also manufactured using imperial measurements (inches) and/or metric.
Absolutely, this is why DIY can be very hard because you think, this should work, not realizing that that .005 (inch or mm) difference in the tolerance will matter.
