Battlemat/Counter advice needed!

Mark said:
I prefer Vinyl mats (got one from Talon, in fact) but have to stress that you want to use WET erase markers, not dry erase.

So I've learned from reading up on them in the past hour or so. :)

The mat I finally ordered was made of Vinyl. Then I found out that it had gone out of stock and was only listed as in stock because of a computer error...so instead of getting a mat about 2'x2', I'm being sent a huge 34" x 48" monster for the same price. That's good customer service. :D
 

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I did the same as the fellow who laminated the mat that came with the D&D adventure game, and that is a nice and easy way to do it, but I also have explored another little do-it-yourself option. In many stores, even wal-marts and k-marts, you can find Ghostline posterboard, it has very faint light grey lines marking off a lot of half-inch squares. if you are willing to take the time and trouble, you can get a good black marker and darken half the lines to make good one-inch squares, then laminate it. Also, if you want a good permanent grid of a site you will use often, but have to make yourself, you might want to use the ghostline for that, too. It comes in standard posterboard size, and a smaller size that looks about a quarter the size of regular posterboard. you also could use this to make the offset one-inch squares that some people like for having kind of a compromise between square and hex paper, but that would be considerably more work to make.
 

Samnell said:


So I've learned from reading up on them in the past hour or so. :)

The mat I finally ordered was made of Vinyl. Then I found out that it had gone out of stock and was only listed as in stock because of a computer error...so instead of getting a mat about 2'x2', I'm being sent a huge 34" x 48" monster for the same price. That's good customer service. :D

You magnificent bastard! :D

Good deal, Samnell! I think you'll be happier with the bigger mat anyway. When you start the game, keep a wad of wet paper towels and a wad of dry ones nearby and you're all set. Some folks like to have a squirt bottle of either water or windex (etc.) handy. Not a bad idea.

I have what most people would call a medium sized pile of miniatures. I like them but am not strict about using only them so I keep some carboard stock handy and clip out the right sized pieces when I need them. That is to say that a quick cardboard counter cut to size, filling the number of squares/hexes that would be occupied by the creature (and placing a number on it when there's more than one) works just fine.

Now come the big questions...

How much miniatures collecting (and maybe/maybe not painting) do you plan (or have time) to do?

How do you feel about counters, in general? (some people like minis as 3D models but not "flat" counters)

Do you have a (color) printer or access to one?

Thinking about terrain a bit for "special" things? (as opposed to just drawing everything that is encountered)

I've seen lots of threads and sites and forums on all of these things so if you can answer the above questions I know the rest of your EN Board pals (myself included) will bombard you with urls and such... :D
 

I have been using the Counter Collection I for the past couple of months. They work well and are a great way to get started without having to use minis. The only thing I don't like about them is that they can be a little hard to pick up. But I have been mounting them on balsa. This makes them much easier to move around. It does add an extra expence but you may find that it adds to the use of the counters. I am still waiting for the CCII to appear here in San Diego.

I have not seen the Dragonscale other than on the web. I must say that I like Claudio Pozas's art on the CCI. Just a personal taste.
 

Mark said:
You magnificent bastard! :D

If one must do something, at least do it well. ;)


How much miniatures collecting (and maybe/maybe not painting) do you plan (or have time) to do?

I've done none and will probably do little.

How do you feel about counters, in general? (some people like minis as 3D models but not "flat" counters)

I like counters, though I wont throw a fit if my players want to paint minis for their PCs or something. I can use both alongside each other.

Do you have a (color) printer or access to one?

Yes, I do. It's sitting two feet from me right now. :)

Thinking about terrain a bit for "special" things? (as opposed to just drawing everything that is encountered)

It's a possibility, but I'm not planning to consider it further until I see the mat and markers in play a bit. I don't want to end up slowing myself down and I'm still brand new to this.

I've seen lots of threads and sites and forums on all of these things so if you can answer the above questions I know the rest of your EN Board pals (myself included) will bombard you with urls and such... :D

Well I know all about Dragonscale Counters, and I've got Counter Collection I on order, but I'm always happy to see more resources and advice. One of my players does have some Dwarven Forge stuff (his wife got it for him for X-Mas) and some minis, iirc, so I'll probably cannibalize at least some of that from time to time for major battles and such.
 

As for counters, I do like the Counter Collectoin, but they are NOT perforated as someone else thought above (too lazy to go back and find out who said it)

They are too perforated!:)

Both Counter Collection 1 and 2 are perforated. However, if you bought a copy at Gen Con 2001 then they were not perforated. This is because the version sold at the convention were advanced copies acquired before the main print run. We're sorry for the inconvience, but we were so excited about the product that we had to have them for Gen Con.

The balsa idea is very cool. The counters themselves are printed on 12 pt cardstock, which was the thickest quality stock we could find without driving the price of the collection through the roof. If we went with the "wargame counter" thickness, than the price would be in the $30 range and we didn't think that would be acceptable. Both collections conform to defined 3rd Edition monster stats and include 7 pages of campaign "crunchy bits" for a little extra value. If you haven't seen an example of the counters, or the work of the very talented Claudio Pozas then check out his site at http://www.d20reviews.com/pozas/ or www.fierydragon.com .

Cheers!
 
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I've had one of my Chessex battlemats since the early 80's. It has held up quite well. Even being used outdoors as impromptu mats so we could sit on the ground.

The ideal markers for them are the Vis-A-Vis Overhead Projector markers (there used to be a few other brands, but haven't seen any others in years). The first few years I had it there were a few "accidents" with markers that didn't competely come up. Certain blacks would leave behind various colors if left on for more than an hour or two. I haven't any any problems with that for years and years, though. Also, the "permanent" marks have faded over the years so that one that I retired because the marks were too pronounced has been put back into use.

As for the inexpensive counters, I recommend the following:

1) Steve Jackson Games Cardboard Heroes: inexpensive stand-up miniatures. There are also a few homemade variations online & the CC2 add-on program "Character Artist" will also generate them for you. They have the advantage of not looking out of place next to miniatures. However, of the options listed here, these are the hardest to store unless you fold them up after each time using them (which leads to a lot of wear and tear on them).

2) Counter Collection from Fiery Dragon: These work quite well, and I use them myself for my game I run away from home. They are much easier to transport than miniatures. The chief disadvantages are that keeping them organized can be a chore and that they aren't three dimensional.

Also, several of the last issues of Dungeon has had counter sheets enclosed with the encounters in that issue. I believe the D&D Adventure game had these type counters also. They work quite well with the Fiery Dragon counters. The primary differences are the artwork (the Dungeon ones use the Monster Manual art) and that the Dungeon ones have rounded corners compared to fiery Dragon's square/rectangular ones. Nothing of any consequence.

Glyfair of Glamis
 

Cardboard Heroes from Steve Jackson games is much better than any flat counters.

Cheapest battelmat - posterboard, draw 1 inch squares, cover with clear vinyl.

I recently bought some 8x10 plexiglass sheets from Home Depot and drew squares on them with permanent marker and then finished off by putting small felt pads in the corners. This has worked extremly well and now I have something that doesn't need to be rolled up, fits in my gaming box, works well for running chase combats, and if I want it bigger I just buy more sheets.
 

What kind of permanent marker did you use? I have a large sheet of plexi I bought for a battlemat, but am having a devil of a time finding a 'permanent' marker that will work with it. Everything I have tried keep coming up.
 

My groups going to be using a cheap plastic tablecloth - you know the kind, with the red-and-white checker pattern? The checks are close to 1 inch squares, and wet-erase markers will work on it. Then the entire table can be a battlemat if need be!
 

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