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Drybrushing miniatures


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I would advise learning how to "blend" as opposed to drybrushing... drybrushing tends to leave a "chalky" appearance and the blending is a more smooth transition from color to color.

Drybrushing works best on smaller parts of a miniature.. like on the hair or beard.
 

Usually, I paint large part with a color slightly blighter than intended color. Then drybrush highlight, and then wash the entire part with thinned down darker color. By this, drybrushed part are "blended" when I apply darker wash. I am using painting solvent or acrylic thinner to thin down colors for washing.

Regarding brushes, I prefer brushes for acrylic painting (I mean those for artistic painting, not for modelling), which you can buy at some painting material shops.
 

LcKedovan said:


Trade ya! :D

-Will

The postage payments and shipping costs would be three or four times the value of both brushes together... Believe me, it is cheaper to buy a new one. :D
And I wouldn't part with it anyway. I have a diorama to make, and you can't make good-looking stone without a good drybrush. :D
 
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Actually the best brushes for drybrushing is not GW's, but ordinary, flat brushes. The best is a cat's tongue brush (that's the form, not the material ;))

But any old brush'll do, some loose their form, some don't. GW's are, being GW's, primarily more expensive.
 

Brushes tend to splay if you get too much paint on them, particularly if paint gets into the base of the brush and drys there.

You can avoid splaying by never getting more than the tip of the brush in the paint.
 

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