Into the Halls of Sartor

[Dannyalcatraz]

Confession time, y’all. I like clothes, shoes, hats, jewelry, etc. By that, I mean the stuff people actually wear, from casual to getting all dressed up.*

My personal style ranges from t-shirts & jeans to preppy to men’s formal to some pretty foppish & dandified outfits- including some custom made stuff. I like finding new sellers or brands, and sharing or discussing them with others. Especially if they’re looking for something themselves.

For example, one of my friends was transitioning from blue collar work into IT, and all he had was jeans & tees. His wife wanted him to look more professional, and asked me to take him shopping. At this point, he’s got a solid white-collar wardrobe.

So, what do you like? What do you hate? What are you looking for that is difficult to find? Let’s gab!

Kicking off: here’s me before going to Easter services:

And here’s me getting a photo of our grrrls in the bluebonnets during the pandemic.

(Posting photos, while helpful, are not required.)



* high fashion is nice to look at, but ultimately, it’s a transient thing by definition.

 

[GreyLord]

You're looking great in that first picture.

 

[jdrakeh]

My dad rocks a Matlock (Andy Griffith) vibe. Example outfit: Boot cut wheat jeans, deerskin blazer, a white button collar shirt, ostrich skin boots, and a silver and turquoise bolo tie (fashioned as a representation of thunderbird). I mention Matlock because my dad is an attorney in rural Kansas. And yes, he wears this outfit to court.

 

[Cergorach]

You look dashing!

Honestly... I HATE shopping for clothes and shoes. When I finally find something that conforms to my 'high standards' (and size), it's going to take a LONG time. And when I finally find something I like, they often don't have enough of it in stock and often can't get more... I have been known to buy twenty of the same black t-shirt at a wholesaler...

I'm a lazy dresser, I have a work outfit/uniform (work in IT): black dress shirt over black t-shirt, black dress pants, black braces, black shoes. Of these I want multiples for daily use. Black wool long-coat for the colder seasons.

As I get older I seem to get more relaxed in what I buy, either I'm mellowing out or am getting even lazier. A decade or two ago, if it wasn't black, I wasn't wearing it, mostly because I didn't want the hassle of figuring out if color X fit with color Y... These days I'm buying things in other colors with some color, mostly due them not being available in black or practical reasons, priority is these days: are they are comfy to wear, are they practical, and are they durable?

Previously during non-work time during summer, I would dress in black t-shirt, and black shorts, black cap, with black sports shoes. But the last couple of summers I've been moving to a light Khaki (sand yellowish) t-shirts and cap, trying out different t-shirt brands to see what fits well, what's most comfortable, and what stays nicest after washing (before moving buying in bulk again). That's mostly due to the consistently warmer summers around here, black absorbs heat, so I would get even warmer.

What I'm even more annoyed about is that stuff I like, isn't around anymore when the ones I have wear out. To a certain degree, I plan for that, getting more then I need. But when they're gone, things aren't available. Either just not being made anymore or being made, but of (far) inferior quality... Seen that with shoes, seen that with specific zip-up hoodies... Very frustrating!

Funny thing is that I've bought some very good stuff (comfy/durable/warm) from a store chain that's essentially aimed at farmers (I ain't a farmer). One score was so good (some very comfy and warm zip-up hoodies) that I ordered another one, which is rare when it isn't black. Prices ain't too bad and during certain sales I get two for the price of one, and this is how I scored some very nice and warm winter jackets a month ago... A light bluish grey and a dark bluish grey, it has a bit of color, but not too much...

When I have something I like, my first response when it needs to be replaced is buy the same thing again. Part of that is knowing the comfort and quality, the other part is that it keeps cloth/shoe shopping down!

 

[Artamo]

I am a pretty basic jeans and t-shirt type guy but even there I’ve noticed that the quality of clothes had dropped considerably in the past decade or more. Right now one of my favorite stores/brands is Buck Mason. They don’t have a huge array of color - here be whites, black, browns and greys, with an occasional blue or olive. But what they do have is very well made and just feels substantial. They have a field spec t-shirt that is quite heavy but just fits superbly and has some drape to it.

Overall, I’m just at the point that if I’m going to spend money on clothes, I don’t want to spend $200 and get 6 or 7 items that won’t look like hell a year later. I’d rather get one or two really nice items, treat them well, and wear them much longer.

 

[Dannyalcatraz]

My dad rocks a Matlock (Andy Griffith) vibe. Example outfit: Boot cut wheat jeans, deerskin blazer, a white button collar shirt, ostrich skin boots, and a silver and turquoise bolo tie (fashioned as a representation of thunderbird). I mention Matlock because my dad is an attorney in rural Kansas. And yes, he wears this outfit to court.

I’m here in Dallas/Fort Worth. Attorneys in the eastern side of the Metroplex usually won’t appear in court any more western than a pair of cowboy boots. (Raises hand.)

In the western side? Besides the boots, you WILL see cowboy hats, bolos and possibly even some vests and embossed leather belts.

 

[Dannyalcatraz]

You look dashing!

Thanks!

Honestly... I HATE shopping for clothes and shoes. When I finally find something that conforms to my 'high standards' (and size), it's going to take a LONG time. And when I finally find something I like, they often don't have enough of it in stock and often can't get more... I have been known to buy twenty of the same black t-shirt at a wholesaler...

If I find something that really works for me, I’ll buy duplicates for backups. Sometimes- depending on what it is- I’ll buy it in different colors. ESPECIALLY if I can catch it on sale.

Not exaggerating: I literally have 2 tubs of clothes and maybe a dozen “backstock”shoeboxes in my closet.

I'm a lazy dresser, I have a work outfit/uniform (work in IT): black dress shirt over black t-shirt, black dress pants, black braces, black shoes. Of these I want multiples for daily use. Black wool long-coat for the colder seasons.

Tech-Ninja!

As I get older I seem to get more relaxed in what I buy, either I'm mellowing out or am getting even lazier. A decade or two ago, if it wasn't black, I wasn't wearing it, mostly because I didn't want the hassle of figuring out if color X fit with color Y... These days I'm buying things in other colors with some color, mostly due them not being available in black or practical reasons, priority is these days: are they are comfy to wear, are they practical, and are they durable?

My Mom took a “Garanimals” approach to Dad’s wardrobe for YEARS. She’d buy and show him a combination of jackets, pants, shirts & ties that all had the same palette so he wouldn’t wake her up in the AM for a wardrobe color check. Now Dad has mostly internalized her lesson.

And yes, comfort, durability and practicality are key. With proper care, well made stuff can last years or decades if it isn’t being abused. I have kept some footwear for 2+ decades, and just realized that I have some banded collar French cuff shirts from the 1990s.

Previously during non-work time during summer, I would dress in black t-shirt, and black shorts, black cap, with black sports shoes. But the last couple of summers I've been moving to a light Khaki (sand yellowish) t-shirts and cap, trying out different t-shirt brands to see what fits well, what's most comfortable, and what stays nicest after washing (before moving buying in bulk again). That's mostly due to the consistently warmer summers around here, black absorbs heat, so I would get even warmer.

I gave up on most “summer wear” a while back. I didn’t feel relaxed so much as underdressed.

And then there was “The Mom Factor”. It didn’t matter what shorts I wore, she’d complain about me wearing them- even the ones she gifted to me. The easiest way to avoid her criticism was to stop wearing shorts, and move on to lightweight pants.

What I'm even more annoyed about is that stuff I like, isn't around anymore when the ones I have wear out. To a certain degree, I plan for that, getting more then I need. But when they're gone, things aren't available. Either just not being made anymore or being made, but of (far) inferior quality... Seen that with shoes, seen that with specific zip-up hoodies... Very frustrating!

Quality & availability are significant motivators for me, too.

In 2025, I needed to replace some faded (and holey) polos and plain t-shirts, only to find my preferred brands were no longer available. So after trying some stuff I found online & discounted, I finally latched onto some worthy replacements.

Funny thing is that I've bought some very good stuff (comfy/durable/warm) from a store chain that's essentially aimed at farmers (I ain't a farmer). One score was so good (some very comfy and warm zip-up hoodies) that I ordered another one, which is rare when it isn't black. Prices ain't too bad and during certain sales I get two for the price of one, and this is how I scored some very nice and warm winter jackets a month ago... A light bluish grey and a dark bluish grey, it has a bit of color, but not too much...

I’m not proud. And while I’m brand conscious, I’m not a brand snob. I’ve got some expensive clothes, but my go-to windbreaker is a Carhartt. Function over fashion!

I was just talking with a buddy about hiking boots. He’s worn his to death, and needs to replace them. And he’s a serious camper- used to work in one of the National Park.

Someone had raised the specter of his preferred brand being an icon among urban gangs. I told him that was mostly overblown AND outdated, and mainly from that brand’s more fashion-oriented products, not the stuff he’s looking at.

When I have something I like, my first response when it needs to be replaced is buy the same thing again.

I do that myself, but not as much as my Dad. He’s gotten grumpy when it’s time for new glasses, and the style he’s been wearing for 20 years isn’t available anymore.

 

[Dannyalcatraz]

I am a pretty basic jeans and t-shirt type guy but even there I’ve noticed that the quality of clothes had dropped considerably in the past decade or more. Right now one of my favorite stores/brands is Buck Mason. They don’t have a huge array of color - here be whites, black, browns and greys, with an occasional blue or olive. But what they do have is very well made and just feels substantial. They have a field spec t-shirt that is quite heavy but just fits superbly and has some drape to it.

I’m pretty picky about jeans. I wore the same 2 styles from Levi’s for 20 years until they got discontinued. Tried Wranglers; hated them. Tried Lee, and found a couple of styles that worked, and also found a couple of different Levi’s that I found acceptable as well.

Unfortunately, the new styles have substyles that use slightly different materials, including different fabric weights. That can matter when seasons change.

So I started looking online, and found 2 major categories that initially interested me:

1) selvedge denim. Some of the denim used in these jeans have patterns unseen in bigger name products, like herringbone. But the sizing, cost and care for those quickly disabused me of the notion that I’d EVER buy them.

2) new DTC (direct to consumer) casual clothing companies that are offering slightly different takes on traditional jeans. Many have a small percentage of more elastic material than the cotton used for denim, giving more stretch and a more form-fitting (but still comfortable) silhouette. I’m strongly considering trying a pair or two. Some of the DTC brands have started opening their own brick & mortar stores or are making inroads into department stores.

As for T-shirts? I have 2 categories:

1) plain or simple pattern (dots, herringbone, stripes), mostly from upscale store brands (bought when discounted) or DTC brands.

2) graphic tees, which I only buy from Liquid Blue or The Mountain, or more focused sellers (like band/tour merch vendors).

Overall, I’m just at the point that if I’m going to spend money on clothes, I don’t want to spend $200 and get 6 or 7 items that won’t look like hell a year later. I’d rather get one or two really nice items, treat them well, and wear them much longer.

BINGO!

I’ve made my fair share of mistakes, no question. I remember buying some nice looking polos from different brands that had vibrant colors several years ago. One decided to shrink 3” in length. Another one seemed to be a lint/fur magnet- I couldn’t keep it clean.

It took me a few years to stop buying inexpensive suede shoes, especially since I had a bad habit of scuffing them up kicking soccer balls to our dogs. (I also now have shoes dedicated to playing & working in the backyard.)

So I’m focusing more on quality stuff and trying to be less impulsive in my purchases. The latter has had mixed results: I’m buying less low-quality stuff impulsively, but damn if I’m not still a sucker for a good deal on the better stuff. Paraphrasing my Dad out of context, my willpower is there, but my won’tpower needs work.

 

[Artamo]

new DTC (direct to consumer) casual clothing companies that are offering slightly different takes on traditional jeans. Many have a small percentage of more elastic material than the cotton used for denim, giving more stretch and a more form-fitting (but still comfortable) silhouette. I’m strongly considering trying a pair or two. Some of the DTC brands have started opening their own brick & mortar stores or are making inroads into department stores.

The one that keeps coming up for me on this is Gustin, and I keep meaning to give them a try. My issue is I have this hangup around trying things on before I buy, but I really need to get past that.

 

[Dannyalcatraz]

The one that keeps coming up for me on this is Gustin, and I keep meaning to give them a try. My issue is I have this hangup around trying things on before I buy, but I really need to get past that.

Ditto on Gustin. Their stuff looks fantastic! They’re the ones with the herringbone jeans.

But I’ve seen mixed reviews on the accuracy of their sizing above & beyond the inherent issues with selvedge denim. The ones who get what they wanted absolutely gush about them. But the ones who experience issues are not happy with their customer service. And I just can’t bring myself to risk it. Not until I see a better ratio of happy to ticked off.

Surprisingly, I’ve heard people complaining about M Tailor’s fit as well.

Generally, though, I don’t have a problem with buying before trying if 1) there’s a decent return policy or 2) the item is DEEPLY discounted. I bought some True Classic tees & polos on clearance. The tees were keepers, the polos looked terrible on me, and got donated. I’m probably NEVER buying another of their polos, but I’ve got several of their tees now- some long-sleeved ones as well.

I made a polo test order with Fresh Clean Threads, and got mixed results. The first of the 2 was a great color & fit, and went through the laundry without shrinking or fading. The other shirt they sent was the wrong color- and not a good one for my skin tone. When I contacted them about the error, they gave me several options, of which I chose just getting the correct colored polo. When I asked for a return label for the incorrect shirt, they said “Keep it.”

I don’t know if I’ll ever buy another FCT polo, but with that kind of service, I will continue to recommend at least giving them a try.