On using minis in D&D - approach of AD&D1 vs. D&D3

[Quasqueton]

The relevant text from the D&D3 and AD&D1 DMGs:

PLAYING ON THE BATTLE GRID
The D&D game assumes the use of miniature figures, and the rules are written from that perspective.

USING MINIATURE FIGURES
Metal or plastic figures are used to represent characters, monsters, and scenery in the game. You can use them on a grid to determine and regulate the distance between individuals, tactical movement, line of sight, and areas of spell effects. This book includes a two-sided poster map containing a sample dungeon on one side and a 1-inch grid on the other. (For regular use, a vinyl mat with a grid that you can write on with wipe-off markers is especially useful. Mats of this sort are often available at the same hobby and game stores that sell dice.)

Even without a grid, you can use miniatures arrayed on the table to show marching order and relative position, or you can use a tape measure and a scale of 1 inch = 5 feet to determine distances on the tabletop precisely. Sometimes position in combat means the difference between life and death, and miniature figures (perhaps along with other suitable objects to represent terrain features or dungeon furnishings) help everyone agree on the locations of characters, creatures, and significant objects.

With a little searching, a player can usually find a miniature that resembles the character he or she wants to play, and perhaps is even posed the way the character would carry himself or herself.

* * *

USE OF MINIATURE FIGURES WITH THE GAME

The special figures cast for ADVANCED DUNGEONS & DRAGONS add color to play and make refereeing far easier. each player might be required to furnish painted figures representing his or her player character and all henchmen and/or hirelings included in the game session. Such distinctively painted figures enable you to immediately recognize each individual involved. Figures can be placed so as to show their order of march, i.e., which charcters are in the lead, which are in the middle, and which are bringing up the rear. Furthermore, players are more readily able to visualize their array and plan actions while seeing the reason for your restrictions on their actions. Monster figures are likewise most helpful, as many things become instantly apparent when a party is arrayed and their monster opponent(s) placed. Furnishing such monsters is probably best undertaken as a joint effort, the whole group contributing towards the purchase of such figurines on a regular basis. Be very careful to purchase castings which are in scale! Out of scale monsters are virtually worthless in many cases. As a rule of thumb, HO scale is 25 mm = 1 actual inch = 6' in scale height or length or breadth.

Figure bases are necessarily broad in order to assure that the figures will stand in the proper position and not constantly be falling over. Because of this, it is usually necessary to use a ground scale twice that of the actual scale for HO, and squares of about 1 actual inch per side are suggested. Each ground scale inch can then be used to equal 3 1/2 linear feet, so a 10' wide scale corridor is 3 actual inches in width and shown as 3 separate squares. This allows depiction of the typical array of three figures abreast, and also enables easy handling of such figures when they are moved. While you may not find it convenient to actually use such figures and floor plans to handle routine dungeon movement, having sheets of squares for encounter area depiction will probably be quite helpful. If you do so, be certain to remember that ground scale differes from figure scale, and when dealing wtih length, two man-sized figures per square is quite possible, as the space is actually 6 scale feet with respect to length. This is meaningful when attacking a snake, dragon, etc. if the characters are able to attack the creature's body length. With respect to basically bipedal, erect opponents, scale will not be a factor.

Details of preparation and painting of miniature figures for the game are not germane to this work. Your hobby supplier will have an assortment of small brushes and paints for such purposes, and you may inquire there as to the best techniques of painting.

AIDS TO PLAYING ADVANCED DUNGEONS & DRAGONS
. . .
Minature figures used to represent characters and monsters add color and life to the game. They also make the task of refereeing action, particularly combat, easier too! In combination with a gridded surface, such as the DUNGEON FLOORPLANS (to be published by TSR in the near future), these miniatures will add a whole new dimension to your playing enjoyment. It is suggested that you urge your players to provide painted figures representing their characters, henchmen, and hirelings involved in play. The monsters can be furnished by you --- possibly purchased through collection of small fees levied on each playing session. . . .

Note: although the AD&D1 book doesn't directly state so, it is apparent that the AD&D1 rules were written with the assumption that the players will be using some kind table-top battlefield and miniatures. Most ranges and speeds are written in the 1 inch = 10 feet (indoors) or 10 yards (outdoors) scale: Movement 6", Range 30", etc.

Interesting that this scale throughout the rulebooks is at odds with the 1 inch = 3.5 feet scale suggested in the section on using miniatures.

Quasqueton

 

[T. Foster]

See also:

SCOPE:
...
Miniature figures can be added if the players have them available and so desire, but miniatures are not required, only esthetically pleasing; similarly, unit counters can be employed - with or without figures - although by themselves the bits of cardboard lack the eye-appeal of the varied and brightly painted miniature figures.

 

[Philotomy Jurament]

Personally, I find that the 1E combat system, as written, is wonderful when *not* using figures, but has a level of abstraction (in the position of combatants) that can cause problems when using minis.

Basically, 1E defines 10' as "melee engagement range." Once you're engaged, you're assumed to be moving around within that 10' range during the one minute round. Your character's mini thus defines its general location, but not a precise tactical position. This definition of engagement and abstract position is what makes the AD&D rules for random determination of the target of your melee attack make sense.

The engagement range and abstract position assumption seems at odds with the flank/rear diagrams in the 1E DMG; how an abstract position in a 10' range works with flank/rear attacks once the general melee is in progress is not discussed. Personally, I think these are largely artifacts from the game's Chainmail roots.

If you're using minis with 1E rules-as-written, you need to make sure that everyone understands that the positioning of the minis is abstract, showing a general, but not precise location. Otherwise you're going to get arguments.

The other option is to NOT use the 1E rules-as-written (especially the rules like random determination of the target of a melee attack), house-ruling movement/engagement to be less abstract. (I think this is probably pretty common when using minis with AD&D -- most people probably "house ruled" it without even realizing it.) In that case, you might be interested in the combat sequence I'm using with my OD&D game, which is derived from Swords & Spells (and thus from Chainmail). It allows the use of AD&D missile rates-of-fire, weapon length/reach, facing, movement rates, et cetera, while using more precise positioning of the combatants. The major difference when using it with AD&D would be the spell-casting times; AD&D segments don't really fit into the sequence (the sequence provides a different method for making higher-level spells take longer to cast).

Combat Sequence

 

[rgard]

We used minis in OD&D and 1E. For us, use of the minis cut down on the arguments about who was close enough to get eaten by the dragon or who got knocked off the edge into the chasm of peril.

All it took was to play with a DM who was spacially challenged and we started working on him/her to use minis.

Thanks,
Rich

 

[thedungeondelver]

Minis are a lifesaver to me, regardless of the edition. This is one argument I won't have, for sure!

There is no "battle grid" for AD&D but there needn't be to use minis to get a good idea of spatial coordination. I mean, hell, I'm improvising all the time. I used my soon-to-be-dumped WHFB minis (in favor of the more compatible Reaper minis) in my Dwarven Forge dungeons; the GW bases are 1" and the average dungeon hall for Dwarven Forge setups is 2" wide - ah, but the problem is up to 3 man-sized critters with weapons can fight abreast in a 10' hallway. Thus abstracting things out was the way to go.

Once I switch to using Reaper minis with narrower bases, it'll be easier.

 

[Philotomy Jurament]

the GW bases are 1" and the average dungeon hall for Dwarven Forge setups is 2" wide - ah, but the problem is up to 3 man-sized critters with weapons can fight abreast in a 10' hallway.

If you use the 'space required' rules for weapons (even as a rough guideline) that would often take care of that issue, in any case.

 

[HellHound]

While we did use minis in 1e AD&D, I ditched them in 3e and haven't looked back.

 

[thedungeondelver]

If you use the 'space required' rules for weapons (even as a rough guideline) that would often take care of that issue, in any case.

Depends on the weapons, and while I don't disagree with you, I for one can't stand the fact that orcs tower over big brawny human fighters when I use GWs against Reapers

 

[Quasqueton]

I started using minis/figures with BD&D, before I even learned of AD&D. One of the first illustrations in the old BD&D rulebook shows a mini sitting on a battlegrid. Minis were sold in the same stores I bought the BD&D books, so it was a natural thing to use them.

I used a grid with 2 inches to 10 feet squares, and I drew in lines breaking the 10' squares into nine 3' squares. This scale matched the mini sizes, and it used the 3' increments that most movement rates were given in.

Quasqueton

 

[Korgoth]

I played lots of 1E and Classic. We either ignored minis completely or just used them (or other tokens) for relative position.

I think that the focus on battlegrids and exact position is something that comes with 3E. Not that some people didn't use them before that, but now it has become part of the "culture" of D&D gaming. To the detriment of enjoyment, from my personal perspective.