Quasqueton
First Post
The relevant text from the D&D3 and AD&D1 DMGs:
Interesting that this scale throughout the rulebooks is at odds with the 1 inch = 3.5 feet scale suggested in the section on using miniatures.
Quasqueton
D&D3 DMG said:PLAYING ON THE BATTLE GRID
The D&D game assumes the use of miniature figures, and the rules are written from that perspective.
* * *D&D3 DMG said:USING MINIATURE FIGURES
Metal or plastic figures are used to represent characters, monsters, and scenery in the game. You can use them on a grid to determine and regulate the distance between individuals, tactical movement, line of sight, and areas of spell effects. This book includes a two-sided poster map containing a sample dungeon on one side and a 1-inch grid on the other. (For regular use, a vinyl mat with a grid that you can write on with wipe-off markers is especially useful. Mats of this sort are often available at the same hobby and game stores that sell dice.)
Even without a grid, you can use miniatures arrayed on the table to show marching order and relative position, or you can use a tape measure and a scale of 1 inch = 5 feet to determine distances on the tabletop precisely. Sometimes position in combat means the difference between life and death, and miniature figures (perhaps along with other suitable objects to represent terrain features or dungeon furnishings) help everyone agree on the locations of characters, creatures, and significant objects.
With a little searching, a player can usually find a miniature that resembles the character he or she wants to play, and perhaps is even posed the way the character would carry himself or herself.
AD&D1 DMG said:USE OF MINIATURE FIGURES WITH THE GAME
The special figures cast for ADVANCED DUNGEONS & DRAGONS add color to play and make refereeing far easier. each player might be required to furnish painted figures representing his or her player character and all henchmen and/or hirelings included in the game session. Such distinctively painted figures enable you to immediately recognize each individual involved. Figures can be placed so as to show their order of march, i.e., which charcters are in the lead, which are in the middle, and which are bringing up the rear. Furthermore, players are more readily able to visualize their array and plan actions while seeing the reason for your restrictions on their actions. Monster figures are likewise most helpful, as many things become instantly apparent when a party is arrayed and their monster opponent(s) placed. Furnishing such monsters is probably best undertaken as a joint effort, the whole group contributing towards the purchase of such figurines on a regular basis. Be very careful to purchase castings which are in scale! Out of scale monsters are virtually worthless in many cases. As a rule of thumb, HO scale is 25 mm = 1 actual inch = 6' in scale height or length or breadth.
Figure bases are necessarily broad in order to assure that the figures will stand in the proper position and not constantly be falling over. Because of this, it is usually necessary to use a ground scale twice that of the actual scale for HO, and squares of about 1 actual inch per side are suggested. Each ground scale inch can then be used to equal 3 1/2 linear feet, so a 10' wide scale corridor is 3 actual inches in width and shown as 3 separate squares. This allows depiction of the typical array of three figures abreast, and also enables easy handling of such figures when they are moved. While you may not find it convenient to actually use such figures and floor plans to handle routine dungeon movement, having sheets of squares for encounter area depiction will probably be quite helpful. If you do so, be certain to remember that ground scale differes from figure scale, and when dealing wtih length, two man-sized figures per square is quite possible, as the space is actually 6 scale feet with respect to length. This is meaningful when attacking a snake, dragon, etc. if the characters are able to attack the creature's body length. With respect to basically bipedal, erect opponents, scale will not be a factor.
Details of preparation and painting of miniature figures for the game are not germane to this work. Your hobby supplier will have an assortment of small brushes and paints for such purposes, and you may inquire there as to the best techniques of painting.
Note: although the AD&D1 book doesn't directly state so, it is apparent that the AD&D1 rules were written with the assumption that the players will be using some kind table-top battlefield and miniatures. Most ranges and speeds are written in the 1 inch = 10 feet (indoors) or 10 yards (outdoors) scale: Movement 6", Range 30", etc.AD&D1 DMG page 11 said:AIDS TO PLAYING ADVANCED DUNGEONS & DRAGONS
. . .
Minature figures used to represent characters and monsters add color and life to the game. They also make the task of refereeing action, particularly combat, easier too! In combination with a gridded surface, such as the DUNGEON FLOORPLANS (to be published by TSR in the near future), these miniatures will add a whole new dimension to your playing enjoyment. It is suggested that you urge your players to provide painted figures representing their characters, henchmen, and hirelings involved in play. The monsters can be furnished by you --- possibly purchased through collection of small fees levied on each playing session. . . .
Interesting that this scale throughout the rulebooks is at odds with the 1 inch = 3.5 feet scale suggested in the section on using miniatures.
Quasqueton
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