Paint Thinning

[pogre]

That's my DM! He wrote the Reaper article. I was painting the evil scarecrow mini Reaper has, until I saw his... depressingly good.

I just started using the thinning techinique after talking to him. I need to read the article to get some more out of it, but it's helped so far. I find that it helps keep my brushes nice in addition to giving better results.

Darin's got a bunch of follow up articles planned. He'd love to get any feedback from you guys.
PS

I left him some on the Reaper forums - it was definitely a helpful and insightful piece!

 

[findel]

Better late then never

I have been debating getting into painting minis but haven't committed an investment into it yet but I have been doing some extensive internet research on the topic. However, I did notice you mention the fact about chalky residue when thinning. It might not be your technique but the water that you are using as suggested in the Vallejo arcticle.

Water: Don’t be cheap here, tap water in most cities tends to leave a chalky residue when it dries. Knowing that all kind of funny chemicals are in it, makes me very cautious, so I rather stay on the safe side and use distilled water for all my painting needs.

Just wanted to add that little bit of info to the discussion.

 

[nyrfherdr]

Some thoughts

I haven't read the article in question, but have been painting miniatures for a very long time. Here are some simple recommendations. (I'll use the word never, etc. but this is all just friendly advice, so don't take it wrong)

1. Never paint straight from the bottle. You need to see the color and the thickness before deciding to put it on a miniature. Use a pallette, wax paper, bottle cap or something.
2. Thin the paint. Don't be afraid. You can always add a second coat if you need more color. In fact, since you will likely be shading, highlighting or for the blending the first coat can be thin.
3. Practice on miniatures that won't be the center of attention, but don't be afraid to experiment. You can always 'erase' if the paint hasn't dried by washing the paint off with a clean brush and water.
4. Read lots of articles from others and ask the guys in your FLGS what works for them.
5. Use contrast in your miniature. Remember that the only person looking at it from 6 inches will be you. Everyone else will be seeing it from a few feet at the game table. Muted tones and subtle colors will generally be lost unless you are photographing the mini for the Internet or are trying to win a contest.
6. Always paint the eyes. They make the face, just like in real life. There are several methods. Find one that works for you and use it.
7. Most miniature articles I've read lately are focused on blending. While the results can be amazing, you need to decide why you paint miniatures before attempting to master the technique. There are other techniques that are easier and faster if you are looking to have nice looking mini's for gaming (either wargaming or roleplaying)
8. Even if you are good at blending, drybrushing and washes are skills you need to practice. Don't avoid these tried and true methods.
9. Use metallic paints if you like them. (There seems to be a great deal of interest in creating metallic effects without using metallic paints. That's great if you want it, but find an effect you like.)
10. HAVE FUN PAINTING. Cool minis have been part of my enjoyment of gaming for years beyond counting. Don't stress if your mini's arent great. I save my old minis just to see how far my skills have progressed

On Adikor... I bought a complete set of these after trying it out at a con. They are very good. If they aren't as good as Vallejo, they are close. Just like Vallejo, the bottles should be shaken very well and use an 'extender' when thinning.
I continue to use GW sometimes, and most cheap craft store bottled brands. I get sneered at occasionally until my miniatures are examined. With care and attention you can get great results with most paints.

This was going to be a short response! What was I thinking.
Good luck

 

[pogre]

I have been debating getting into painting minis but haven't committed an investment into it yet but I have been doing some extensive internet research on the topic. <snip>

Welcome to the boards! If there is someone in your group that paints why not buy a couple of figures and ask them if you could paint with them?

I have had a number of friends learn this way. Some fall in love with it and some even progress far beyond me to become master painters. It is a great way to motivate a veteran painter to do some work too. Sharing and teaching makes us all better painters.

Good luck.

 

[pogre]

I get sneered at occasionally until my miniatures are examined. With care and attention you can get great results with most paints.

I admit it - I would have been one of those snobs about craft paints, but I have been exposed to some painters who achieve remarkable results from them.

This miniature for instance, was painted almost entirely with Ceramcoat brand craft paint! I still think Vallejo is easier to work with, but there is no denying the excellent results many painters get with these cheaper paints.

I completely agree with all of your suggestions - very solid how to advice!

 

[Chingerspy]

First of all I will admit to not reading most of the other posts above but to thin acrylics I use screenwash. The blue stuff you put in your car washer bottle. You can pick up a huge bottle of it for very little money (I guess even cheaper in the States) Just a little of this stuff dropped into the pot or mix and the paint will flow much easier. You can even get scented versions

I think someone already posted that soap and water - "wet-water" works, well this is virtually the same idea albeit pre-mixed and no chance of frothing.

Good luck!

 

[nyrfherdr]

Thanks Pogre.
I've seen your work. Very good.

Cthulhu's Librarian: I hope all of this has been helpful.

 

[Cthulhu's Librarian]

Cthulhu's Librarian: I hope all of this has been helpful.

Very! Thanks everyone for posting here, keep the tips & ideas coming.

 

[ledded]

I use "wet water" to thin my paints. Thats regular water with just a tiny tiny bit if dish soap to break the surface tension. About 1 drop of soap per pint of water. I've used a variety of paints, everything from cheap craft paint, Citadel, reaper and Vallejo Game colors and Reaper. Of them all I find Vallejo gives me the best results.

I have found that this method (and actually using a certain floor wax product, I cant remember the name) works especially good for washes (for me at least). For washes it's great because the soap breaks the surface tension allowing it to run into the tiniest crevices and detail and then 'stick' there, oppossed to 'beading up' as water tries to do.

One thing I've tried also with washes is using alchohol as a thinning agent under certain circumstances. A very experience model train guy I know uses that and india ink to weather rocks and stuff on their sets, and it works fabulous; the alchohol causes the wash to dry quickly when put on thin, so for getting that smeared/run of 'dirt' on a building or rock (such as where water runs off of a tin roof or rock outcropping, leaving a stain) it's perfect.