ShadowLight's Adventures in Hirst Arts

Joshua Dyal said:
That depends on what you cast them with, but if you've got a ton of them, they can get relatively heavy. Pretty much all of the options are some kind of plaster.
The densities (and therefore the weight) of the plasters can vary quite a bit.

A lot of people use plaster of paris, which is very cheap and a LOT lighter than the stuff I've been using (I've used it before with some latex molds I made of some Dwarven Forge pieces). It's also VERY fragile. I definitely do not recommend using plaster of paris.

Once you get into the really hard/strong stuff it starts getting closer in weight but it can still vary a lot from HydroCal to HydroStone/PermaStone to Dental Plaster
 

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Since we're talking about different plasters, here's a bit about Excalibur. I got my 50 lb box in the mail and it was HEAVY (hmm... about 50 lbs I'd guess) but a lot smaller than I'd thought. Here's the box:
excalibur01.jpg

50 lbs?​


Just to give you a sense of scale, the box is 12"x12" and 11" high.

Inside is a big ole' bag of powder:
excalibur03.jpg

Bag in a Box​


And, for the curious, here's the instructions on the front of the box:
excalibur02.jpg

That's what I call a User's Manual!​


Compared to Permastone, this stuff sets fast... REALLY fast! It's not kidding when it says 12-15 minutes to set! You need to scrape pretty quickly after pouring, and then you can seriously pull the parts out of the molds in a little less than 20 minutes! With the Permastone I'd wait a good 40 minutes before pulling the pieces out of the molds.

I used the Wet Water method on pretty much every mold I cast, and it seems like the Excalibur is a little more forgiving and produces fewer bubbles than the Permastone.

People told me that Excalibur was a lot stronger and heavier than Permastone, but I didn't notice that much of a difference (I haven't broken any of either material yet). When I weighed them, the Excalibur pieces are about 1.2 times the weight of the same Permastone pieces.

Now, a few posts up, I posted a table that indicated that Excalibur would be the cheapest per pound. Now that I've used the Excalibur, I'd guess that Durham's will probably end up being cheaper per brick because Excalibur is so dense (the water can soak up a TON of this stuff!). I'll reserve my final judgement until I try out the Durham's though.

All in all, I like the stuff. The bag-in-a-box packaging isn't the greatest (I prefer the tubes that the Permastone and Durham's come in), it's expensive, and you can't just run to the store when you need some. However, the casts I've made with it seem pretty good!
 
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shadowlight said:
All in all, I like the stuff. The bag-in-a-box packaging isn't the greatest (I prefer the tubes that the Permastone and Durham's come in), it's expensive, and you can't just run to the store when you need some. However, the casts I've made with it seem pretty good!

FYI - Bag in a box is how almost all dental and art plasters are shipped.
 

pogre said:
FYI - Bag in a box is how almost all dental and art plasters are shipped.
Hmmm... I'd better keep my Durham's cans so I can repackage my future dental plasters... bringing that big box up from the basement whenever I want to cast is getting old :)
 

Hey there Shadowlight,

Just wondering if you have done any more stuff with your casts. Would like to see some new pictures if you have them :D.
 


Casting Idea

I use the no scrape method or called the glass plate method. After I pour the mold I let it sit a few moments and then lay a plate of glass on the mold and hold it down with two 20 oz. bottles of water. The bricks come out smooth and every time they are even without scraping .
 

You could aslo try ultracal-30. It is cement. I have had hirst molds for years and that is all I used. heavy but very strong, and cheap as heck $18 usd for 100# (lbs):)
 

Very cool stuff! :D Can't wait to see more.

Can any of you "moldies" ;) tell me how well the various molds work together? Can you mix elements from things like the gothic dungeon molds easily with the fieldstone, etc.?
 

kengar said:
Very cool stuff! :D Can't wait to see more.

Can any of you "moldies" ;) tell me how well the various molds work together? Can you mix elements from things like the gothic dungeon molds easily with the fieldstone, etc.?
I can answer that. Provided that you're judicious in your use of the various molds, you'll find that they actually mix very well. Bruce (Hirst) has designed them so that all the pieces will work together in terms of scale, and the variations in texture can give some very interesting effects.

He also produces various "lines" - so that you can buy basic molds and then extend with all sorts of accessories. The Gothic line has a whole series of fantastic additions, including secret doors and huge, cathedral-style arches. His latest is the Egyptian line, and I'm looking forward to the day (far off, sadly) when I can justify buying still more molds. Of course, finding the time to do enough casting and building and painting is another matter.

BTW, shadowlight, I like your paint job very much. I've developed a "dirty" grey scheme that looks fairly realistic, but I'd like to try some more earth tones as well. I think I've just *yoinked* your colour scheme. Thanks!

'Nock
 

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