Hexes or Squares?

[Jeremy757]

Because if I wanted to deal with tapemeasures and AoE templates, I would play Warhammer.

What! You act like using mini's is supposed to be a science. Its just an abstract representation. Nothing more. I don't use a single tape measure or template. A simple metal or plastic ruler is all that we use. We guestimate a lot. Thats what roleplaying is about, and you don't need hexes or squares to do that. Really the minis are only their to help us see perspectives.

 

[rounser]

It *is* possible to draw square rooms on a hex map such that all hexes are unambiguous and you never get 1/2 hexes, but it takes a little tiny bit of practice.

Just a thought; why not draw with 1/2 hexes, but rule that:
1) A miniature can "fit into" a half hex just as it could a full hex.
2) A miniature cannot flank from a half hex.

 

[Jeff Wilder]

We use squares, but only because it avoids rules arguments. I would much prefer hexes, for streamlining and simplifying combat, and I think 3E should have made the switch. (I, too, don't understand the difficulty people seem to have with drawing straight lines on hex mats.)


Jeff

 

[Jeff Wilder]

Essentially, you need to draw your lines in between the hex gridlines. here's a graph i used a couple of times on these boards now:

Why is the green border any better than the yellow?


Jeff

 

[slaughterj]

Why is the green border any better than the yellow?


Jeff

I was wondering the same thing, they seem the same.

As for half-hexes, I let people stand in them, doesn't seem to be an issue.

 

[devilish]

Hexes for outdoor, squares for indoor.

As to why hexes outdoor, I think it's a throwback to 1e/2e when overland
maps were hex and indoor were square -- my guess would be since the
overland is more tactical and less battle-oriented, it's easier to show how
many hexes between two points instead of the "every other diagonal is 2"
rule.

To the non-square/hex folks: how do you adjucate concealment/cover?
This came up recently in a game when a character was in melee in a doorway
and another was shooting behind him. The rules [I'm paraphrasing and
may be a bit off] have the "measure every corner of your square to every corner of opponent square -- if all clear, you can melee; if at least one clear, you can fire."

Without squares, is it just DM judgement?

 

[slaughterj]

Hexes for outdoor, squares for indoor.

As to why hexes outdoor, I think it's a throwback to 1e/2e when overland
maps were hex and indoor were square -- my guess would be since the
overland is more tactical and less battle-oriented, it's easier to show how
many hexes between two points instead of the "every other diagonal is 2"
rule.

To the non-square/hex folks: how do you adjucate concealment/cover?
This came up recently in a game when a character was in melee in a doorway
and another was shooting behind him. The rules [I'm paraphrasing and
may be a bit off] have the "measure every corner of your square to every corner of opponent square -- if all clear, you can melee; if at least one clear, you can fire."

Without squares, is it just DM judgement?

I'm guessing that must be some detailed d20 rule? I don't bother with such detailed rules in games, for the sake of having the game flow enjoyably, and just eyeball it, whether it's hexes or squares. Never had any issues, over a range of gaming groups, just give people the benefit of the doubt.

 

[Conaill]

Why is the green border any better than the yellow?

Jeff

Because it minimizes the use of partial hexes along that north-south wall. Or rather, it makes the partial hexes less ambiguous. With the green line, you get partial hexes which are about 96% of a full hex (clearly a valid, useable hex), and little slivers that are only 4% of a full hex (1/24th, if you must know). With the yellow borders you get partial hexes which are 5/6 or 1/6 of a full hex. With some sloppy drawing, that's a lot closer to 1/2 a hex.

Another rule for making sure you get unambiguous hexes is "is the center of the hex accessible? This allows you to draw arbitrarily crooked boundaries (caves etc), without having to worry how they'll be interpreted. I've seen some hex graph paper with a little dot in the center of each hex, but I don't know if any battlemats have this feature.

 

[Davelozzi]

I strongly prefer to draw a map without a grid and just have their players move as they would without counting spaces. Usually if there's a question, the player will ask "can I get this far?" and I'll eyeball it. If it's important enough we can grab a ruler, but it's rare that this happens.

That said, I also have some Dwarven Forge sets, and they have a square grid built into the floor tiles, so when we're using those pieces, we use the square grid.

If for some reason we were forced to use a grid all the time, I would prefer a hex grid for outdoor battles.

 

[slaughterj]

Another rule for making sure you get unambiguous hexes is "is the center of the hex accessible? This allows you to draw arbitrarily crooked boundaries (caves etc), without having to worry how they'll be interpreted. I've seen some hex graph paper with a little dot in the center of each hex, but I don't know if any battlemats have this feature.

Yeah, that's a good idea for the Chessex style battlemats - I haven't seen them like that, but that would be pretty cool, and eliminate interpretation issues (except maybe who can shoot at who measurements?).